| Author | Message | ||
     Reuel |
I always start easy. When you pull the air cleaner box open, start it up and see if it gets better or not. Think of the last time it ran fine and the first time it ran rough. What did you do between? Check those. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Old stock plugs or Champions-once black, they never come back. NGKs, iridium or not, will be fine. | ||
| Sycho |
EZ the packing in the pipe should be normal it came off a bike with only 200 miles on it. And Reuel when the bike is idling it's fine, it's when I try to maintain a low rpm when I'm moving, or motor is under a load is when it sputters and chugs. I did have it die yesterday and when I tried to restart it had puffs of black smoke out the pipe. It did restart though. | ||
| Ezblast |
What octain you running, has this just developed or a growing worse type thing? Do you buy your gas from the same place all the time? EZ | ||
| Sycho |
Running 87 octane, usually from the same station. Last tank since I ran out of gas, lol, due to the decreased mileage was from a different station. But it was running bad before it ran out. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
V & H is straight through (glasspack), so packing wouldnt make a difference. 2 additional things come to mind. Stuck float or stuck enrichner. There are other things that could be a problem, but I'm trying to focus on what could have gone bad before the changes and not something that may have fouled up with the change. I really appreciate those jumping in with ideas. Its hard to diagnose a problem when you cant see or work on the bike (but 'we' have). I was running out of plausible ideas. Sycho, Id be happy to swap out your carb with a known good carb and see if the problem disappears (and I would have offered), but I leave for a MT Tuesday morning and wont have any time for about 2 weeks. | ||
| Ezblast |
try 91 octaine. EZ | ||
| Sycho |
Here is something that came up, or dripped out you could say  I noticed this on the ground after running the bike to get hot. This happened after I shut it down. It seems to be coming from the Head. It doesn't smell like gas or oil, nor does it feel oily. | ||
| Swampy |
Looks like a rocker cover gasket. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Sycho My bike used to do that too, but only when it was cold (below freezing), I don't know what excuse yours would have being that you are in sunny warm cali. Anyway, when mine did that it was coming from the PCV (breather) on the top of the head. There is a rubber bushing that deforms from the torque of the rubber hose. On mine this bushing not only deformed but also got hard and crumbly. Oil was literally getting pumped out past that bushing until it got warm. The bushing is on the right side towards the front of the head. I had to remove my tank to easily replace it. I hope this helps. | ||
| Swampy |
Oops!, yep, I jumped the gun a little, pull that gas tank off and verify where it is coming from, a crankcase vent hose grommet is a lot easier to change than a rocker cover gasket. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have one on hand(they are remarkably inexpensive) when the original one gets brittle and starts to leak. | ||
| Zensmile |
@Slowhand and @Swampy I am just starting to get an oil leak at the top of the head. I noticed a small oil leak the other day, after coming home from a trip. I had taken the bike out for a 20 mile ride just before leaving. The weather has been pretty cold lately, but I am determined to ride through the winter. :-) I checked the oil level and it is okay, but I am hesitant to ride it too much until I have a chance to remove the tank and see what is leaking. I hope it is the breather tube and/or that rubber bushing you posted about (crossing my fingers). I have two questions... 1. Can you post an URL to directions for removing the tank? 2. Can you send me a link to the bushing and any parts I would need to replace/repair the vent hose grommet? I normally buy parts from Iron Machine, but didn't see anything described like what you two posted about. Any help would be appreciated. Anthony (Message edited by zensmile on December 01, 2008) | ||
| Indybuell |
You will also want to pick up a service manual. They can be had on Ebay for $30, or $60 at the dealer. | ||
| Rainman |
Speaking of leaks, take mine....wait, that didn't sound right... Thumper has developed a seepage around the oil feeder line that comes from the engine into the oil filter, the line that also has the sending unit on top of it. It isn't much of a leak, just a fine film and it's no bother. I'm assuming that it's due to colder weather and my practice of short, 4- to 10-mile runs several hours apart. Am I right? Am I wrong? Am I dooooooooomed? | ||
| Ezblast |
Anthony - think rockercover gasket - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The Superbrace: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/418412.html | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Fast: Moved your suspension/frame question/problem to the suspension section. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/33309.html | ||
| Ezblast |
Bryan - is that the steel line? EZ | ||
| Ak_blastin |
Hey do you guys happen to know the part number for front wheel bearings? | ||
| Ezblast |
E0001.T - you'll need two. EZ | ||
| Rainman |
Yep. It's the one that has the sensor sending unit on the top and curls around and down to the filter. It seems to be seeping out from around the nut that joins the line. It didn't start until I rode on a couple of days near freezing and it's not a serious leak of any sort. I'm inclined to ignore it, but that sometimes gets me in trouble.... | ||
| Ezblast |
You should be fine - if you want on your next oil change - while empty - loosen nut - wrap some teflon tape around the threaded end and re-assemble. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Rainman, you will need two wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the oilfilter adapter/crankcase, and one to turn the nut. Loosen it up, make sure the fitting is tight in the case, then retighten the nut. | ||
| Rainman |
This thing is so damn easy to fix.....wait a minute, gotta go tree dance to break that jinx... | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Zensmile Sorry but I am no where near talented enough to post a link, sorry. Try searching tank removal or go to that section in the forums. Pulling the tank is a snap! These bikes are sooooo.. easy to work on.. I'll do this from memory... Pull the seat, pull the dipstick, CAREFULLY remove the hose from the tank vent. Remove the bolt that holds the tank cover down. Remove the tank cover and watch out for the black plastic ring at the dipstick hole, note which way it faces. Put the dip stick back in. Remove the bracket that holds the back of the tank down, it's also under the front of the seat. Turn off your fuel petcock, remove the hose. Pound out the two black plastic thingies (technical term) at the front of the tank. I use a prybar and a mallet. They have to be pounded away from the frame. Don't hit your dipstick. The tank should come off now, sometimes you need to wiggle and work on it. You should have a clear view of the grommet now, it is on the right (as you sit on the bike). just look for the big ol'hose that runs to the top of the rocker box. I don't know the part number but they were real cheap. My stealership needed to order them though, it took a few days. The breather will pull straight up. The grommet can be removed by poking it from the side with a screw driver and prying up. Just reverse the procedure to put it all together, remember to remove the dipstick when you put the cover back on. I've broken one, believe it or not. ALSO.. and this is the big one.... When you put the cover back on make sure you get the cover and large O-ring around the filler to sit flat and flush with the aluminum flange. This is important... don't ask why.. it just is.. lol.. Failure to do so will leave you subject to much ridicule and taunting. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Zensmile EZ might be right about it being the rockerbox gasket but the grommet is much easier to check and replace than the gasket. I have a 2000 with the old paper gaskets too and they don't leak... yet. Both my 2000 and my 2002 have leaked from this grommet. Checking / replacing it would be a good bet. (Message edited by slowhand96 on December 02, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
make sure you get the cover and large O-ring around the filler to sit flat and flush with the aluminum flange.Much ridicule. LOL! and my losing sleep over it! | ||
| Blastbiker |
I on the other hand have a push rod cover leak any one know any easy ways to fix the problem or am I going to have to pull apart the rocker box, and replace all gaskets in the rocker box? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Erik No need to lose sleep.. I got your back bud! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Blastbiker: you'll have to remove the cylinder head too(: You can cut the pusrod cover off and install adjustable pushrod tubes. That wil save you pulling the head,but you'll still need to pull the rocker cover. You can clean off the leaking point and try and seal it with silicone. Sometimes it works if the leaking section is accessible, but you've got nothing to loose to try! This might be the time to upgrade a few things  |
