| Author | Message | ||
     Zane |
Ok... I'm not trying to start another oil thread here but have a question. What should I use in the transmission? Specifically, my question is this: I'm using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w 50 in the engine. Can I also use that in the transmission? It would make logistics easier if I only had to stock one oil product instead of two. If I can't use the Mobil 1, then is there a good product that I can use for both? I’ve got about 300 miles since the engine oil change and it hasn’t used a drop so I’m liking the Mobil 1 so far. Oh, by way of making a report. My gas mileage is consistently in the high 60’s to low 70’s. I’ve been trying to keep it in the low to medium range in the power band most of the time. Last three tank average was 69.4 mpg. Ok, now on to another silly question. I need to get a torque wrench pretty quick. The back tire is down to the tread bars already so I need to be thinking about a tire change. Is a 3/8 inch drive on a torque wrench enough or should I get one with a ½ drive? This would be for the bigger things on the bike, like back axle. I’ll get a small torque wrench later for all the smaller nuts and bolts. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yesx2! | ||
| Zane |
Thanks Ez. I don't have a service manual yet. How much fluid does it take? (Message edited by zane on June 16, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
Not quite 1 quart. (30 oz) I've been running Mobil 1 in my transmission for a few years now. While the Blast is level, fill it to the point that the oil is just covering the bottom teeth of the clutch. You'll see what I mean. | ||
| Zane |
OK, Reuel, Sounds like a plan. Just realized that I wasn't specific enough. The Mobil 1 I'm using is the automotive formula, not the motorcycle formula. Now, what about the torque wrench question. Is a 3/8 drive big enough to comfortably get the wheels on and off without issues? (Message edited by zane on June 16, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
Automotive formula should be fine. I don't know that anyone actually uses a torque wrench on the Blast wheels. But if you do, 3/8 should be fine. I've never had any trouble getting the nuts to turn. | ||
| Zane |
Call me anal retentive, but I just want to make sure I can put back together what I take apart. Lol Is pulling the wheels really as easy as it looks like it should be? Edited for coherency’s sake (Message edited by zane on June 16, 2008) | ||
| Swampy |
You MUST use a torque wrench to retighten the axle nuts on the Blast. If you do not you run the risk of either under tigntening or over tightening that will ruin the wheel bearings. AMHIK | ||
| Zane |
Swampy, Do you know off the top of your head how tight it needs to be. I think I read somewhere in the knowledge base that it was 45 foot pounds. Is that correct? Also,do I need to install a new locking washer with each wheel removal or can I get a couple of tighen/untighten cycles out of the washer. (Message edited by Zane on June 16, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
Is pulling the wheels really as easy as it looks like it should be? yes.  In a pinch, you don't even need a jack. | ||
| Zane |
Every time I look at doing something on my baby, I look at it and say to myself "Naah, can't be that easy." Then it turns out that it is. I love my Blast. | ||
| Reuel |
Um, once, I didn't clean the axle shaft. It was hellacious getting it out! Since then, I clean it off with PB Blaster, wipe it off, then apply a light coat of grease before I put it back in. It's not been a problem since. So, I'm not supposed to reuse the lock washer? Oops! ... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Zane: Pleeease get a manual! Front 40ft lbs, rear 50 ft lbs. Definitely grease (or anti seize) the axle shaft. The shortcut doesnt require Y-frame or clutch cover removal, fill through the trans vent line. Takes 1 quart, if properly drained. and before the whole 30 oz, 32oz, 29oz, debate starts-the manual says 32oz(1 quart) and 2 oz is minimal if you really think you've overfilled! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on June 17, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
 Click the picture for info on how to change the transmission fluid w/o removing the foot peg bracket. | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Nice!!!! Now why didn't the factory think of that?? This needs to go in the useful notes/FAQ section. | ||
| Ezblast |
Better yet see the top of the Primary/transmission page one step back - & the top here! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 04, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
You can clean that hole up with a nice zinc or SS bolt when not in use. In the last picture, that isn't the hole, it's a 1/4 inch plastic hole plug. I should mention, in case anyone else attempts this, that the back of the footpeg bracket is reinforced by a steel lip. The edge of this lip needs a notch to allow the torx driver to pass through. I used a drill saw to do it. I suspect a rat tail file would also work. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is there enough room to do the clutch adjustment 'your way'? Still seems a lot easier to just fill through the transmission vent hose. Only one common wrench and a small funnel required! And a breather filter can be added to the vent line if one is really worried about dirt in the line. Not too take away from a great idea though... | ||
| Jlnance |
Yes, there is room to do the clutch adjustment. I was pleased to discover that. | ||
| Reuel |
Too late for me. I've already gotten so good at loosening or removing that bracket that drilling would probably take longer! All that practice over the last 7 1/2 years ... Is that really the normal gasket? Mine's that rubber gasket that I clean every time I pull it. No leaks or anything. (Message edited by reuel on September 04, 2008) | ||
| Jlnance |
Is that really the normal gasket? Mine's that rubber gasket that I clean every time I pull it. The early Blasts came with a plastic cover that used the rubber gasket. Later they switched to a metal cover with the paper gasket. | ||
| Reuel |
Was it an improvement or a deprovement? | ||
| Ezblast |
lol - the later - XB's did'nt want plastic on their motor - so parts consolidation happened - they should have kept the gasket though and went to the metal cover. EZ | ||
| Jlnance |
I think it would be cool to have one made out of plexiglass or lexan so I could see my oil level. | ||
| Ezblast |
 | ||
| Rainman |
OK. Want to change the tranny fluid and find the leak around the clutch cable. Do I really need to take of the Y-arms like the bible says? Is it as big a PITA as everyone says? Should I drill? Is it worth the money to just take it to the dealer? Gad, I need a life. | ||
| Reuel |
Nope. Nope. Probably not. Nope. You only need to loosen the nuts enough that you can move that arm around. If you have a ratched, a 6" extension, and a U-joint, you can get to all 3 nuts without too much difficulty. After your 3rd time, it'll be easy. It's like riding a bike. The first time you try, you probably didn't do well, but once you get the hang of it, it's easy. Do it the normal way 3 times before you start putting holes in metal. The dealer will charge more than it's worth. Get some of that PB Breaker and spray it on the nuts and they should come loose easily. Just keep checking as you're unscrewing so you don't accidentally get the nuts all the way off. The left side is bunches easier than the right side, which is good because you don't have to do anything to the right side.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Or you can do it the really easy way (or 'Swampys way'-for credibility). 1)Drain the transmission fluid completely-that just means give it a while to drain, stand the bike up straight to be sure its empty. 2)Find the transmission vent line that stuffed up the frame (left side) and using a small funnel, fill it through there with 1 quart of fluid. 3)Your done. Put the transmission vent line back in the frame. Check for leaks. | ||
| Rainman |
Dang, I'm feeling the courage already! Next question: There's a steady leak around the clutch cable where it connects into the primary. I can't tell if it's a missing o-ring or not. Would a little of that liquid gasket stuff toothpicked in and around be good enough or is that too "hillbilly tool?" (Note the difference between a hillbilly and a redneck, according to my hillbilly grandpa: A hillbilly will spend hours and ruin a straight screwdriver to get out a phillips head screw. A redneck would steal someone's phillips driver.) | ||
| Fast1075 |
Naaaawwww...a hillbilly would spend hours using a straight blade screwdriver to get a phillips head out....a redneck has tools in his Dale Earnhardt commemorative Snap-on tool box to keep his 4 wheel drive, mud truck, bass bote, jon bote, 4 wheeler, dirt bike, Jet ski, deer rifles, hotrod and Blast running. (Did I ever mention??? Imma redneck! ) |
