| Author | Message | ||
     Reuel |
Your cable and clutch are probably on the loose side. The handle itself should have only a tiny bit of play. If you haven't gone to the dealer yet, you could try tightening the cable itself until there's only the smallest bit of play at the handle. If you adjusted the clutch itself, you should have tightened the screw until it was finger tight, then back off until you could lock it in place. Good luck with the dealer. Check the main forum, Knowledge Vault, Dealer ratings or something like that, and see if there are any posts about your local dealer. | ||
| Swampy |
Robi, Your internal clutch adjustment is too loose. When you turn your adjustment screw out it will firm up or get hard to turn, at that point you turn the adjustment screw back in 1/4 turn and set your lock nut. Then you adjust your clutch cable. Also when you make the internal adjustment you need to shorten the clutch cable adjustment all the way. When you reset your cable adjustment you lengthen the cable until you get the desired amount of freeplay between the clutch lever and the clutch lever piviot mount, about the thickness of a nickel, 1/16-1/8 inch. | ||
| Robi |
Thanks everyone. Dropped it off today. It'll be done tomorrow probably. Left with an uncertain feeling in my stomach, partly due to cost of course. Many questions: Did I explain the symptoms well enough? Are they going to test ride it? How much over the initial hour are they going to be? Do they have a special technique or tools to get that damn Y frame off (that's an hour right there)? Am I going to get taken because I'm not a big spending customer like most of the "Harleys" they service? I checked this thread right before leaving, but the final weight on the scales was the hope that they will adjust it just right, so then I'll know in real life how it's supposed to shift, rather than my quibbling repeatedly here. Well, school starts back Monday. I'm hoping this is the last thing and I'll have a reliable bike that will get me to next break, when it'll probably be due another maintenance work over. Gotta hit the books more than the garage for the next few months, so hopefully everything works out smoothly. I'll keep ya'll posted. Thanks again. | ||
| Johnnymac |
Robi, the important thing is that you stay at your comfort level and do what makes you feel best. I think in this case you have made the right choice and it will give you peace of mind. You can get your hands dirty the next time around. You will have lots of opportunities...LOL. On a similar note, I just finished washing the last of the grease off of my hands after adjusting my clutch assembly and cable, and changing the primary and engine oils. Took it for a ride around the block and it all appears to be spot on. One day I will fine tune the clutch pawls but for now it will have to wait until sometime next year. I will say that the "Y" frame does get a little easier each time you do it but they certainly didn't make it easy.  I had to ask my lady to get her tiny hands to start the threads on the deepest nut. I just couldn't get my hands inside the gusset well enough. The first time I did it I managed by myself but I had bruises all over the back of my hand. Sure does make custom rear sets an attractive alternative.  | ||
| Ezblast |
A threaded rod coupler and lock washer are a beautiful thing. EZ | ||
| Johnnymac |
That's your secret?!?? Sweet!  | ||
| Robi |
I got message from HD Dealer. They said they found the noise. They had to "pull my primary cover off and pull the rotor and plus pack out, and rotor has a magnet that is is plopping around and luckily it didn't tear up the stator." Rotor assembly costs $135 $45 for gasket and oil. 3 hours labor total to tear apart, adjust, put back together, and take it for a ride. Total is $426 (plus tax). I need to let them know whether to do it or not. If not, it'll still cost me the same in labor and gasket/oil with bad part, so minus $135 new part. They need to check to see if anyone has the part in Ohio, if not, will take up to 5 days. I said go ahead, even though that's the money that was supposed to go to my tuition. I got back on here in shock, wondering if you guys could talk some sense into me, but like a heart surgeon saying, "we cut 'em open, do you want the new heart or not . . . either way it will cost you, minus the new heart and with the old one" . . . I feel I have to take it. I asked if they negotiated at all, and they said, "no sir, we do not." What could I do? So I guess the only relevant question for you all is: Am I being shafted? Does this sound like a real legitimate problem? I'm sure there is no opinion available on cost, because my bike is there. There are two HD places in Columbus that I know of. One is not a Buell place. I feel like I have to trust that is the truth. Though I never described anything to you folks about hearing something "bounding around in there," I really don't know what it is he is talking about. So I don't feel knowledgeable enough to call him out on it. I hope I'm not paying for something that might have been wrong but wasn't causing the problem I was perceiving. But again, if what he says is real, then it would be a problem I would still not know how to fix. I guess I need to pick up some more hours (if they're available). | ||
| Swampy |
Robi, How many miles do you have on your Blast? Is there a warranty still available? There is no reason for the magnet to become loose unless it was loose from the get go. Call Buell customer service. | ||
| Swampy |
Also, that is not what your original problem was, it was a clutch engagement issue probably due to a miss-adjusted clutch(I did that on purpose) If your magnet was loose it would give you a charging problem and it would knock all the time when running but then it would have tore up the stator. The magnet sticks to the rotor hub and the glue just holds it in place....but if you use an impact gun to loosen the crank nut you can loosen the magnets form the rotor. Gotta go, wifes bitchen | ||
| Ezblast |
A 2001 - now that you know what the problem is, Get the part, take it home and fix it yourself - its just reassembly - easy deal - 2 hours for a dealership would be better - considering the ease of the fix is just reassemble with new part, I'd want the shift pawl adjustment, and drum pin check for same length and adjustment, as well as a new Detent Plate and Clip - but they won't do that, and would charge you extra for it. EZ | ||
| Robi |
Swampy. Just about 10,000 miles. Bought it used at about 9,400+. Are you saying they might have loosened it when they were taking it apart? EZ - if I take it home, I still need to pay the labor for them to put it back together. Or should I just tell them to stop, not put it back together, and I'll show up with my brother-in-law's trailer and trail it home. | ||
| Robi |
Talked to the brother in law and read your responses. He agrees with EZ that it can be done EZily, but (again the grain on the other side of the scale) if I let them fix it, and get a receipt (such receipt being specific that I brought it in for clutch/shifting issues), then I can always take it back with the the idea that I paid for them to fix what I brought it in for, and if not fixed, it was not repaired. He agrees, that if it was a magnet (by the way this is all unchartered territory for me), the bike would not have been charging or starting. I can point to the fact that I rode the bike to the dealer in the first place. Ultimately: Let them fix it, 'cause I'd still have to pay for the new part and the labor done thus far, and ultimately, I have them to blame if not done properly, with the understanding that I brought it in for clutch adjustment in the first place. what are your thoughts? (Message edited by robi on August 25, 2008) | ||
| Robi |
I talked to the tech at HD again this morning. I called to make sure that the clutch and shifting issue are resolved and such resolution was included in the price given. I was calm and he was professional. After the call I feel better and more trusting. I verified that the magnet worked the electrical of the bike, and I told him I never had problems starting it and I even rode it to the dealership. He said I wouldn’t have. The magnet wasn’t off, but it was loose and just about to dislodge. The guy who did my intake wrote down “clutch adjustment and hearing noise.” I actually described a bunch more symptoms to him, but I guess that’s the way it goes. The technician adjusted the clutch and rode it around, and determined it was OK. The guy told me the loud shifting was normal. The ugly shift from 1st to 2nd was sort of normal, especially on these bikes. He said the grinding is the dog ears getting worn, and I have the option to have the engine taken a part for such repair, but again, it’s not really broken (my words, not necessarily his). After the clutch was adjusted and tested, they felt the bike was running normal, so a group of them listened to the bike run to see if they can hear the “sound” that I allegedly brought it in for. They heard a rattle coming from the front of the engine area, took the cover off and noticed the magnet “loose,” but not “off.” This explains why I did not have problems starting/riding it. After all this, I feel better. Not about the price, but about whether I got seriously shafted. Question: Is the old rotor assembly something that is salvageable for resale? Is the magnet something that can be put back on by someone who knows what they are doing? In other words, should I ask for the old part and try to sell it on eBay or something? | ||
| Ezblast |
Roby - trailer it and do it your self, much money and time saved, and it is just reassembly with new parts and checking spec.s added in - you never know with a dealers work and they will nickle dime you to death. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
No on the part. EZ | ||
| Robi |
Thanks EZ, but my gut says just let them do it. At least if I'm interested in riding my bike any time soon. With school starting up, I really can't (or rather I shouldn't) spend as much time in the garage. I have classes 3 nights a week, 3 hours each night, a full time job, and another part time job once a week from 3a-7a. Any free time during the school season is spent with the better half, and when she goes to work is when I study. Additionally, I need to do some house repair before the rainy/cold winter starts. So, as much as this sucks, all this, combined with the fact that I'm not very good at this, and hopefully I can hold them accountable, then I'm going to let them fix it. I'll would still have to pay for the labor thus far, and would still have to pay for the part. I'm waiting on a call back from my financial aid office. I know thus far they are flexible on payment of what the loans don't cover, but in light of this financial squeeze, I have to see how much more flexible they are willing to be. If they say NO, there are no other options, then the money is going to go to school, and I'll have to say bye-bye to riding the bike for a while. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again. | ||
| Ezblast |
Ouch! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think your stuck paying for the new rotor. As you said, it'll cost you the same labor and its really not a good idea to get your bike back in pieces. No warranty on the repair and they wont be responsible if you (they'll say it was you) lose a part. If you were capable of fixing it the first place, you wouldnt have taken it in. Rotors do lose magnets. Whether an impact gun will break them loose is a matter of great debate (seriously heated debate). A 2001 is way too old for Buell to care about any kind of warranty. Sadly, IMHO, your stuck. Lesson learned. We will help with noises, and never let them take your bike apart. We cant be there, but we do know most of the common problems. Rotor magnets arent one of them, but its isnt impossible either. The old rotor isnt worth anything, but I could sure use it as a spacer, if you'd care to ship it if/when you have time? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS as I've said before taking a Blast to a Harley dealership is like taking a (an old) VW to a Porsche dealership. You're paying top dollar shop rates for a low budget bike. Sadly, sometimes, you have no choice. | ||
| Robi |
Gearheaderiko - I'll ask for the old part and price out the shipping. As apparent from this thread money is an object, however, you folks are always a great help. What do you mean be using it as a spacer? If that is synonymous with door stop, then I might keep the shipping cost in my pocket. Maybe I'll just slip it into an Heineken half keg, duck tape it shut, and dump it in the Ohio river. If it makes it to the shores of CA, it's yours. I need to find a local mechanic. Any suggestions for Columbus, Ohio? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'll definitely cover shipping+. It will also be nice for you to see the old part and see what was wrong. As a spacer: On the raceBlast, I'm planning on ditching the charging system, which means I may need an old rotor to make a spacer out of. I may not need it, it may come in handy for fabrication, dont know. But it would be nice to have a bad spare. No rush, you're busy. | ||
| Robi |
Finally got it back this Saturday. It was ready Thursday, but with school and weather, I waited until Saturday. I have to say, I do notice it runs quieter. I now know how the clutch should feel, and though I didn't realize there was a noise before, the bike is quieter. Before I tightened up the bottom nuts of the exhaust, but it was still rattling. I thought it was just a noisy clanky bike. Now when I start it, all I hear is the "thump thump thump." The foot peg bounces around a little, but other than that it's quieter. The guy asked me if I was wondering, "finally..." I said that I was indeed anxious to have my bike back, but it wasn't so bad seeing that money sit in my bank account for a few days. The bike still shifts a little loud from 1st to 2nd, but as it was explained to me, this is the wearing of the dog ears (I think that's what they are called), and it would require quite a bit of work to tear the bike apart to fix it. Otherwise, the shifting, while noticeably audible, is solid, and sure. Thanks for the help everyone. Hopefully that's all the work for now, and I can just commute safely through the semester. I'll probably be back when it comes time to adjust the clutch, or primary at next maintenance schedule. Gearhead - I don't have a scale, I'm going to try to find out how much the rotor assembly weighs, and then we can price the shipping on www.usps.com. I was shown the loose magnet, and there is visible chipping and metal shavings where it was bouncing around. | ||
| Swampy |
The U S Postal service has $7.50 flat rate shipping boxes. If it fits in the box(there are two sizes) they will mail it for $7.50 no matter what it weighs. Glad you got your bike fixed, now go ride it! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Flat rate boxes are now $9.80 or $12.95 any weight! If I remember I'll check to see if it will fit in the $9.80 box. You'll need to get one from the post office as a regular box will be expensive to ship. I can PayPal you or mail you a check and can probably also send you the correct box, if you email me your address. Your busy enough without go to all this trouble! | ||
| Robi |
Gear, I'll send you an email with that info. | ||
| Robi |
Swampy - it's raining today. Rode it yesterday and Saturday when I brought it home. It's supposed to clear up later, but I haven't ridden in the rain yet, so didn't want to practice for the first time on the way to work. If it stopped raining, I might have attempted it, depending on how much it dried up before work. It's supposed to be clear for the better part of the week though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Remember, the road is slickest when it just starts raining and after it stops and starts to dry up. Riding in the actual rain is safest (except for the not being able to see part). Got your pm, I'll get to work on the box and postage! | ||
| Robi |
Alright. Looks like I'm going to need to call HD Dealer and take my bike back in. I'm going to ask for opinions, to make sure whatever they tell me jibes with what I'm told here. I am now experiencing problems shifting down into 1st. It's not all the time, but riding into work today, it's happened enough that I know it's not me. A number of time I start from a stop, and I find myself in 2nd gear, even though I've shifted down until it stops. After I was sure it was consistent, I paid more attention, and the next time it happened, I noticed I wasn't even able to get to neutral (at a stop, clutch handle fully pulled it). I end up having to up shift, and then go back down. Also, this morning, another first time occurrence, shifting into first was loud and crackly (as apposed to just loud). In fact, I would say that I've never heard this bike grind as much as it did this morning when I started my commute. I am going to call HD. What should I expect to hear? | ||
| Ezblast |
Have you tried the Blipping throttle to match rpms trick? EZ | ||
| Robi |
No. I don't know what you mean by that? |
