| Author | Message | ||
     Njmaier |
EZ, It does go into it's high idle when cold. Then it comes back down to a barely running state...definitely under 1000 RPM. I'll try the TPS reset. Hate to sound like a jerk...but can someone still answer my question. Does the carb have an idle speed adjustment? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - the screw with the spring on the carb - but if you set the idle when cold , when its hot it will be too high. EZ | ||
| Njmaier |
Thanks EZ...I'll make sure it's warmed up before I set it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
DONT mess with the TPS unless you are VERY sure you have a problem with it. Certain things dont just re adjust themselves. If it hasnt been touched since it left the factory -it hasnt moved. No reason to 'adjust' it.  Unbelievable how many posts I've read that people have messed it up and cant reset it. | ||
| Njmaier |
No worries...all I needed to do was adjust the idle speed screw. I just wanted to make sure that I was turning the correct screw. I adjusted it tonight....much better. | ||
| Ezblast |
lol - guess what caused it? EZ | ||
| Njmaier |
Not sure...it ran like that since I picked it up last Saturday. | ||
| Ezblast |
First sign of a bad boot is a high idle, so they probably lowered it, then when the bike started cutting out they replaced the boot. Then the bike had your issue - oops time to sell it - and you got it like that - lol EZ | ||
| Swampy |
LOL! Textbook! | ||
| Reuel |
Stay away from the TPS! I don't think there is a proper procedure that works to reset it. | ||
| Toniportray |
When I suspected my TPS was bad, (I could tell it was advancing the timing prematurely) I measured the voltage from the wires and it was way off from what it was supposed to be. I just unscrewed the tamper resistant screws and turned it back all the way until the multimeter showed .5 volts. That was all it took despite the hours and hundreds of dollars I spent trying to fix other things that were suspect. Haven't had any issues 5k miles later. Of course I should add that I was 95% positive that the reason for my engine lurching at 55mph+ was because of excessive advance brought on by the changing timing curve triggered by the TPS. Glad I got it changed because my little beast runs pretty darn good now. | ||
| Ezblast |
What kind of tamperproof bit is it? - haven't looked. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I tried that. Set it for .5 volts. Got knocking! I twisted it to match the spot where the original one was, and it seems OK. Might be off, and might be responsible for my gas mileage deficiency... | ||
| Bzbuell |
Hey Guys, Here's the rundown - '00 model with stock exhaust, K&N filter, EZ air box mod, new carb boot, stock jets. It sat in a guy's garage for months & months, then he sold it to me & I made the mistake of not draining/cleaning the gas tank. After a few short rides it wouldn't start. I pulled the jets & cleaned some black build-up, which seemed to fix the problem at the time. After riding it a few times since then, it decided to not start last week. After an hour of feathering the throttle, triple-checking the fuel petcock, etc., I finally got it to start again by turning the petcock OFF and using jumper cables to my car. That made me think it was running too rich, so I decided to check the fuel mix screw. If I counted right, it should have actually been lean at just under 2 turns out from bottom. I reset it to 2.5 turns out, then had to experiment for the next 30+ minutes to keep it from dying at idle. Got it idling steady & up'd the idle speed slightly using the idle adjust screw. Current status - it takes 2-3 attempts and a good bit of throttle feathering, but I can get it to start without jumping, although it coughs & sputters a LOT for the first several minutes until I can run her at moderately high RPM's to get her good & hot [insert joke here]. Any & all suggestions welcome. Maybe a weak battery or ignition coil not delivering enough spark? Maybe fuel delivery is still eratic due to gunk not yet cleaned out? Any chance that a carb float reset would help? | ||
| Swampy |
Check your carb boot, sounds like that is the problem as you had it running fine after cleaning the carb. | ||
| Ezblast |
How old the battery -? EZ | ||
| Bzbuell |
Swampy - I'm still housing it in the warehouse at my workplace, but I'll check it tomorrow. Seems like it wouldn't smooth out once it's hot if it were the carb boot, though, would it? Good question, EZ. Could be the original, but I didn't check it over closely. Will check that tomorrow, too. (Message edited by BzBuell on August 29, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The running too rich comment and all that black gunk in the carb also makes me wonder if your not getting problems from all the junk in the tank/lines. The lines do deteriorate after time from sitting. Consider installing a clear inline fuel filter (the kind they sell for old VW's-cheap) between the tank and the carb and possibly replacing the line. That'll filter out any garbage and let you see whats going through. Dont mess with the float just yet. Generally its best to assume everything is perfect from the factory and work back from there. Floats usually do not readjust themselves. Check the other more common issues. A new spark plug may be beneficial. | ||
| Reuel |
Any time an engine is left sitting for a time, it is a really good idea to run some sort of fuel system cleaner through it. Sitting causes fuel deterioration and condensation to build up. Don't start making all kinds of adjustments on an engine that was fine before it sat, and ran fine for just a little while after being cleaned. You can expect to have issues for a couple tanksfull or more unless you run something through your system. HEET is good for condensation, and one of those gas treatments, such as STP, is good for cleaning the deteriorated fuel deposits. Once you know your system is clean, if there are still problems, go through the other troubleshooting tips. Been there, done all that! | ||
| Ezblast |
On the das boot - it goes through different stages of symptoms as the tear(s) progress - sigh - the boot could be fine, however, if installed with the lip part caught in the clamp, crooked or jacked will also cause those symptoms - and will soon tear from improper installation - make sure intake firmly in one end and the carb square with the ground/level surface - I can do the boot in like 5 min max - the springs keeping everything nearly in place. This helps a lot if blown off while riding - lol EZ (Message edited by ezblast on August 30, 2008) | ||
| Reuel |
My boot problems were caused by the clamp being not tight enough. I'd get the occasional backfire, especially when I turned off the fuel when I was going to park. When the carburetor punched me in the leg, that's when I tightened the clamp. Cured the backfires completely. | ||
| Bzbuell |
Awesome, thanks guys. Will double-check the boot installation and run some Seafoam through the tank. I'd considered putting an in-line fuel filter between the tank & carb anyway, just as a precaution. I guess it's time for a trip down to Advance ..... again. EZ - I checked the battery, but neither the month nor year stickers were peeled off, so I can't tell how old it is. Looks practically new, but that doesn't mean anything. On the up-side, it is a genuine H-D battery. | ||
| Ezblast |
The big question is it holding its charge, and getting charged? Sitting that long - carb would definitely need a re cleaning - tear down and put back together - can do so from bike, new gas - and might even consider a new line due to non usage - same with the battery. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Also a partially fouled plug. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"- carb would definitely need a re cleaning - tear down and put back together". I disagree. Just because a carb has been sitting does not necessarily mean it needs disassembly and cleaning. Jets, possibly (but not definitely). The bigger factors are where has it been sitting and does the person know how to take apart and reassemble a carb. They'll cause themselves much more headaches if they dont know what they're doing (as we've read time and time again). FWIW: I've restarted/resurrected many old engines (car, motorcycle, lawn mower) without pulling the carb apart. Its better to find the problem than just 'start fixin'! (Message edited by gearheadErikO on September 01, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Don't start making all kinds of adjustments on an engine that was fine before it sat, and ran fine for just a little while after being cleaned. You can expect to have issues for a couple tanksfull or more" Very true. Not so sure I'd want to start running all kinds of cleaner through the system though (gasoline is already a cleaner), just dont expect it to run like a champ first tankful out. | ||
| Bzbuell |
EZ - Battery holds a charge, I was just thinking a weak spark may cause problems with fully burning the fuel, resulting in the coughing/backfiring. Just put the new iridium plug in it. Seriously doubt it's fouled with just 45 miles on it. I'm fairly mechanical, and had no problems pulling the bowl & jets last time. Even so, I think I'll just try running Seafoam through it for a while before re-adjusting the fuel/air screw. It starts easier than it used to, at least. Thanks again, guys. | ||
| Ezblast |
Its almost impossible to foul an Iridium - true - did you do the regulator test on the pins from the regulator to the Stator - both should read zero since juice is only supposed to be coming from the stator - just for curiosity sake - only a new zip tie is involved - lol EZ | ||
| Bzbuell |
No, I haven't. Guess I'll need to look up the procedure in TKV. | ||
| 08uly |
While cleaning and re-jetting the carb I figured I'd replace the Air Intake Manifold O-ring. No problems. I went to look for the torque spec for the cap screws that hold the manifold on the head and could not find a single reference to the torque for these screws in the service manual! Does anyone know where they hid this in the service manual? Or is it really just not there? I must have spent 30 minutes looking for it before I gave up.  --- 08Uly Uly Data Page Blast Data Page  |
