| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Adjustable with shims (aka: washers-not included). Shimming makes it richer. | ||
| Toniportray |
It must've been the Yamaha then. I remember one of the bikes has indented rings within the needle that you can change the ring position on to lean or richen fuel delivery. Why did HD change from a 165 size main jet to a 170 on the 2002 models? Was it a performance issue, slightly different carburetors, or does 165 just run unsafely lean for the engine? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Too lean. At least one stock HD/CV needle is adjustable as well as aftermarket needles. Most dont have the slots for adjustment. | ||
| Twisty_mcwrister |
so i got some seafoam put some in the gas how do you guys "introduce" it in the intake ? just pour it into the carb or what? how do you guys use it? | ||
| Ezblast |
Spray bottle - rev bike lightly while spraying it in. Some add to gas as well as a carb cleaner. EZ | ||
| Toniportray |
Twisty, please post your results of the Seafoam usage when you have time. I have a bottle, but might use it on my car instead of my Blast unless it shows some noticeable benefit. The company website has instructions on how to use it that are pretty good (eg: use 1/3 bottle in oil, 1/3 in gas tank, etc.). I'm not sure whether there are recommended ratios per gallon of gas, oil, etc. since the online instructions are for cars... I finally found something along the lines of what I was looking for. Maybe someone would like to post it with the other carburetor pictures:  Looks like if I want to make a real difference on fuel economy for my driving range (60mph constant freeway), adjusting the needle taper will have the biggest effect. I thought a 165 or 160 main jet would be good, but this suggests otherwise. I assume "clip position" is the position of the clip at the back of the needle on adjustable needles. I don't know what "straight diameter" is. So it looks like my most effective means of boosting fuel economy for my riding is to change the needle taper. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look into a fatter needle which would restrict a little bit more fuel flow from the main jet? I don't want to go overboard, but I'd love to try some things out and see what results I get. | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Help! I have been searching for posts to help with my problem. I put on a v&H exhaust, so I uped the jets to 175. After the jeting, I started geting a knock? Or maybe some kind of rattle. It looks like it may be a timing problem? I tried the static timing. I have an 01 blast and I didnt see the 2 dots thing. But there was a bar that I found. I set the timing to the bar. My light goes out when the bar comes into view. Anyway, this timing had me advance just a hair above stockish. Didnt fix the noise. Any other ideas?? I also replaced the rockerbox gasket. Could this cause the noise? | ||
| Toniportray |
When I was having issues with my Blast, it was the TPS that was out of range. One of the things though that I checked (of many) during that horrible exploration was the timing. What I discovered was that setting the timing with the motor off really doesn't get an accurate result. If you don't want to buy a timing light (Harbor freight sells one for $10 or $11), then I have found that the best way to set the timing it to run the engine at idle then turn the module counterclockwise until the revs go up. If you go too far, the engine will start to sputter out, but if you get it just right the rev's will be at max when you've got it just right. And of course, turning clockwise from this position will lower the revs. To determine if it's a timing problem, just try moving that module slowly back and forth and see if the noise changes or stops. If it's always there at any setting, I don't suspect it's a timing issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks Toni - saved that. EZ | ||
| Monteflow98 |
I tried something similar. When I first thought it was the timing, I started the bike, let it run for a few min. and then moved the module around. The sounds seemed to be there through the movements. Tonight, I took off the rocker box cover and made sure all the bolts were tight from the gasket replace. Everything seemed fine. What is a TPS? Slightly off topic, but does the 01 blast not have the same timing spot? When I took off the timing view bolt and rotated the motor, i never saw dots to line up. Just basically a slot. Never the less, my search continues. | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Toni, I found a post about your TPS issue. Doesnt sound too much like me. My bike runs amazing! And when I was adjusting the timing, (I think I advanced it) the bike ran crazy fun! I would compare it to my bike on crack! The only real problem is the sound. When I took everything apart tonight, I moved my rocker box cover back as far as possible on the bolts. It looks like it is close to the motor mounts. Too late to start it up tonight, but I was thinking it is possible that it is just rattling? Who knows. When I rotate clockwise, is that advance? And should I possible retard the timing slightly more than stock and turn the adj screw more than 2.5 turns to compensate? I'll try posting tomorrow after I ride. | ||
| Monteflow98 |
ok, sorry for multiple posts. But I just remembered, I thought my slow jet was larger so I didnt get one when I was at the HD shop. And when the bike ran, I didnt think I needed a larger one. And at 9 bucks for the main jet.. Anyway. My slow jet is stock. So what's that 43? Could this cause bad pressure and a knock? | ||
| Reuel |
They are there. They show in my 01. TPS: Throttle Position Sensor. They cannot be set according to the service manual. The stock ignition detects when you're approximately 1/2 throttle and switches between two timing curves accordingly. Try 45 slow jet. (Message edited by reuel on August 07, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The slot on the flywheel is for static timing (engine off). The 2 dots are for dynamic timing (engine running) Setting your timing a few degrees ahead or back is not too hazardous, but arbitrarily advancing your timing 'till it runs great' can have disastrous consequences! Do not set/advance your timing to the 'just before it sputters out' method. It will be too far advanced. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 20, 2008) | ||
| Monteflow98 |
I'm not sure, but I don't think the timing is my problem. My dad has a Honda Shadow and I ride that today. When I got back on my bike, I realized how rough it rides. My big problem is the knocking sound. I'm not sure where to go next. I guess i'll try a 48 slow jet and see if that helps. If anyone has tips, please let me know. | ||
| Toniportray |
I wonder if you're interpreting the "knock" as the noise the primary chain makes... It seems that you've got all the fuel settings to be running a tad rich within a safe range. Does the noise sound like two bones clacking together or as someone else in the forum put it, "two skeletons f*cking in a tin can" (?). I hear the clack noise all the time and I think it's normal because if I go any tighter on the primary chain, it starts whining real bad, and any looser and the clack noise gets worse. If you haven't already, try adjusting your primary chain tension. There is a LOT of information on how to do that in the forum under the "primary" discussion area. Try turning that screw looser and tighter and see if the noise changes. If it changes or goes away when you tighten, then it's just a loose primary chain and you've just fixed it by tightening the tension on the chain. Meanwhile, does anyone have any suggestions on where to look into a fatter needle which would restrict a little bit more fuel flow from the main jet?  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Static timing is accurate. The reason to check it with a timing light (dynamic timing) is to verify, among other things, is that you set the static timing correctly and to be sure there are no other problems such as a bad module, loose rotor, incorrectly adjusted or bad TPS, loose module or ? If the timing is adjusted correctly (on just about any engine I can think off), advancing the ignition will increase engine rpms and retarding the ignition will decrease rpms (again, if deviating from the correct timing setting). The above procedure will be too far advanced. Of course if you have other problems, it could be right on. Advancing the timing almost always seems to make an engine run 'better' and is one way to compensate for other problems. Doesnt mean its a good idea though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/ has a good list of some of the needles available. Needle # N72R or HD pt#27094-88 seemed to lean out the midrange which was my goal on an set up that was too rich. There are very minor difference in needles. Stock needle is still pretty lean though. | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Thanks for that post! I will try looking into the primary chain. I went for a 200 mile ride yesterday. It seems like it makes the noise more after the bike has been running for a while. After I got back, I sat and reved through the RPM's to try and find exactly where the noise is coming from. It almost sounds like it is coming from he pushrods. I think the timing chain sounds like a good next spot. On a positive note, everything else is great on the bike! Gas mileage is awesome, runs fine, and has a good amount of power (for a single cylinder). I do wish that my Vance and Hines exhaust had stayed chrome though. :-( | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Update. I tightened the primary chain. Since I didnt have an inch pound rinch, I did the best I could. I can feel a change in the bike. And it did go 6000 miles with the spacer in it! But, it still didn't fix my rocker box noise. I'm thinking it might be detination. I have been reading several posts, and that sounds like my problem. I'm just not sure what to do to fix it! Ive tried timing, and the primary. Any chance it could be my ignition? | ||
| Fast1075 |
If the noise started when you changed the exhaust, make sure it does not have a leak at the head clamp, and make sure the exhaust is not up against the motor...these engine vibrate a lot...my Jardine can was too close to the engine and would vibrate at a particular rpm.. | ||
| Monteflow98 |
I'm about very frustrated. I want my bike to sound better! This motor is starting to scare me. I may have to break down, and find someone to work on this think. I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, is there any chance there might be another Blast owner close to you so you can listen to their bike or they can listen to yours? Anyone? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you go down to the "User List" you can do a search of Buellers in Ohio and it will also list what bikes they own. Click on the American flag next to their name and it will show their profile (and where they live). You might even find a Blast owner that works or is familiar with a good dealer. | ||
| Njmaier |
I just picked up a 2002 Blast. It has a V&H exhaust on it and has a K&N drop in filter in the air box. The previous owner said that it had not been re-jetted. So I have read and decided to go with 48/175 combo since I am below 3500 ft. My first question is: does the needle have to be shimmed at the same time as the jet change or can I get away with just changing the jets out? Second question is: Is the idle mixture adjustment screw the same thing as and idle speed adjustment? Reason I ask is that the bike has a hard time idling without dying. Thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Njmaier! How far below 3500ft? I'd go with 45/175 (since I dont agree with the overly rich jetting that has become fashion as of late). Thats 3 steps up from stock on the slow jet. The idle mixture screw is not the same as the idle speed adjustment screw. You'll need to remove the plug covering the screw. Dont forget 2 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screw. http://www.bcrider.com/blast1.html for info on removing the plug. You do not have to shim the needle at the same time. At your convenience when you get the washers/shims. Easier than jetting. If your at 3000ft leaner may still be better. 2500 ft will make a difference. Do the above and see how it runs. You may also want to consider a new spark plug. | ||
| Njmaier |
Gearheaderiko, I am at about 800ft above sea level. I think I'll try both slow jets and see which one I like better. So how do I adjust the idle speed then? Is that the spring loaded screw on the right side of the carb? Finally...what's the correct iridium plug for the Blast? I'm in a warm climate (Arkansas). I read all the info, but it's put together in a kinda confusing manner. Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
48/175 will be the ticket and shimming the needle is definitely the thing to do - you'll appreciate the difference immediately. If your idling too fast time to check and probably replace Das Boot! Iridium plug (IXU01-27). EZ | ||
| Njmaier |
EZ, The bike is not idling too fast...just the opposite. It doesn't want to keep running most of the time at idle. I have to give it gas to keep it going. Is there an idle speed adjustment? | ||
| Ezblast |
When first started from dead cold - it should idle around 2000rpms and then settle down to 1200 to 1000 rpms - if your idle is around 1200 to 1000 rpms warmed up, then I would suspect your TPS needs resetting - see the top of the page for at home instructions and do a search for hints on getting it totally right - it may need replacing if nothing works. EZ |
