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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Engine - all topics related to the Motor » Primary Drive and Transmission » Clutch troubles » Archive through February 26, 2007 « Previous Next »

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Nytrashman
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

not sure if this is in the right place but here goes. ever since i got my used'05 Blast when i let the clutch out it makes a noise like i am really reving the engine and letting the clutch out too quick causing the rear tire to "chirp". i have been riding a long time and i am not chirping or spinning the rear tire when i take off. it seems to be getting worse and now it feels like the clutch needs an adjustment. the clutch does not slip it just does not feel right. i had the bike at a local Harley/V-twin shop shortly after i got it and had them adjust the primary chain and adjust the clutch. the spacer for the primary chain is still there so i do not know for sure if they really did adjust the primary chain as it says in the service manual to remove the spacer when doing the first primary adjustment. i had them adjust the clutch at the same time because when i switched from the stock handle bars to the daytona bars the clutch lever was way out of adjustment. ever since getting my bike back from the shop the tranny seems like it clunks into gear much louder then when i brought it there. this was my first (and only) time going to that bike shop as i was too busy to do any of the work myself at the time. upon picking the bike up and seeing the huge bill and being unsure if they actually did what i asked them to do i told my wife i will be doing all the work on the bike myself from now on, reguardless of weather i am busy or not. anyone have any ideas what is going on with the clutch/clunking tranny? i was thinking this coming weekend i should adjust the primary chain, change the tranny fluid and install a new clutch cable/adjust the clutch. the only problem is i do not have a torque wrench for inch pounds, only foot pounds. i read in the KV sectiion how to adjust the primary chain without using a torque wrench and it seems pretty straight forward. so whats everyone think, am i on the right path or is the chirping sound i hear something that should be looked at by the dealer?

thanks
George

PS: the bike had 2400 miles on it when i got it and now has approx. 3200 miles on it. i think the clutch should last longer then that, right?
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It will do that - don't sweat it.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Mabueller
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go ahead and adjust the primary yourself. If they didn't take out the spacer I doubt it was done. The method used without torque wrench seems to work. It took me a couple adjustments to get the best results. Post with your experience on adjusting the clutch for those of us who have not done it yet.
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Woody1911a1
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mine does that too but then the front wheel comes back down onto the pavement and all is cool ; )

if the spacer is still there then no they didn't adjust it .

personally i dont think the method of tightening til the rpms drop is not a great idea , nor do i think buellistics method of backing it so far off that the spring has to maintain the tension . if i remember correctly he said he recommmended removing the top guide because it would break up ? hmmm

yes there is always a tight spot and a loose spot so a lil loose is better than a lil too tight .

a method close to factory specs but on the safe side would be , remove the spacer , back off the lock nut , tighten the adjusting bolt to finger tight then back off a little over one turn of the bolt then tighten the lock nut .

personally IMHO buellistic's method is asking the spring loaded tensioner to do something it's not intended to do !

but thats just my opinion ; )
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wood1911a1:

Was informed by a BLASTer that in late 2001
the shoe was up-dated one spring hole in it ...

The hole is closest to the chain which causes the least amount of tension on the
chain was retained(that concurs with IMHO) ...

Very good as you are realy starting to think about how it works(chain spring
tensioner/shoe screw adjuster) ...

Remember that "i" have a 2000 BLAST which
was the FIRST MODEL YEAR and "i" have no idea what the Factory(H-D/BMC) have
up-dated because they had to rethink
things ...

In BLASTing
LaFayette
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Woody1911a1
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 08:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic , i'm not questioning your method of adjusting your primary chain the way you do , i'm questioning you're advising others , especially newbies coming here looking for advise , to do it in a way that is so totally contrary to the factory method .

the factory basically says set the limiting screw to allow for this very small range of travel . i agree that there spec is probably too little . you however are recomending/telling people to back it so far out as to just let the spring tensioner all the slack it wants even though it wasn't designed to do so .

hey experiment all you want , but by telling people here that is an acceptable method , i think your wrong in doing that , sorry .
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You definately don't want your primary adjusted too tight. It will cause your clutch to drag and not disingage making shifting horrible and put undue stress on your clutch basket bearing.

How I do it is with a cold primary(not ridden), engine warmed up and running, I adjust the primary from a backed off position until I can hear a change in the primary noise, while you are adjusting it in by hand, it will begin making a whirring noise, from there I back the adjuster off until the noise stops. Its almost like adjusting a radio dial, tune it in until it makes noise then loosen it until it stops.

I run a 20-50 synthetic motor oil(Castrol) in the primary, I have drained it out the drain plug and put a quart in the breather tube(not recommended, but easy)

Clutch adjustment is a breeze and if you pull the left side foot peg frame, you can refill you primary that way.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry that you've found out that Blasts dont get any respect or good service at the dealer.I dont think taking it back there is a good idea (since they didnt even remove the spacer). You are much better off doing it yourself.
Why change the clutch cable?
The "by ear" method or the torque wrench method (7 flats out) out works out to be the same adjustment. I like to do it 'by the book' the first time, so I have an idea of what the factory expects.
Buy an inch/lb torque wrench. Although 24 in/lb torque wrenches are hard to find, the Craftsmen one that goes down to 25 inch/lbs will work at 24inch/lbs (yes I checked it against 2 other torque wrenches) and then back off the screw 4 1/2-8 flats (I like 7).

" I have drained it out the drain plug and put a quart in the breather tube"-this method makes it real easy to change the tranny fluid.

While a tight chain is more damaging than a loose chain, a very loose chain will also rob power, limit top speed and do damage. If you're going to leave the chain really loose (Buellistics method), then it would be a good idea to remove the top rubbing block/chain guide because that chain is going to break it up.
Internally (as far as the chain and related parts are concerned), only the adjuster shoe has been changed between 2000 and 2005.
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Nytrashman
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 04:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for all the replies, i will adjust the primary this weekend after i pick up a torque wrench from sears. anyone have any ideas why i keep hearing that chirping noise when i release the clutch? i am quite worried about that.
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Jprovo
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The chirping noise could be glazed clutch plates. If the clutch was really abused by it's previous owner, and the primary oil was never changed, I can see this happening on a low milage bike. I would re-adjust the primary and the clutch, and change out the trans fluid. The detergents in the oil might help with the clutch glazing (if that's what it is).
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" had a CHRIP when "i" first got my BLAST ...

Found out it was the rear tire CHIRPING when "i" took off ...

It was the clutch because the SPRING PLATE
is no longer in the clutch ... The SPRING
PLATE allows the clutch to realese smoother ...

When "i" was letting out the clutch "i" was "GONE" !!!

In BLASTing
LaFayette
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clutch on both my Blasts chirp, I don't think it is anything to worry about. One of the Blast clutches was severly burnt, the Big Kid abused it and it is still in service after many thousand miles.
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Nytrashman
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i picked up a torque wrench today and adjusted the primary chain. i backed off 6 flats after tightening to 24 inch pounds. the tranny now no longer clunks like it did and it shifts great. i do not hear that chirping noise anymore and the clutch seems to work a whole lot better. the only question i have is i now hear a whirring noise coming from the primary chain. will this cause any problems or since the bike now shifts properly can i just leave it as it is?
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wasn't that easy? and satisfying? Most of everything that needs to be done on this bike can be done by you.

You can adjust it back again if you want to, so adjust it in until you don't hear the whirring anymore, then try it again to see it is shifting like you want it too.

Experiment a little!
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes
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Woody1911a1
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

from swampy in above post :

How I do it is with a cold primary(not ridden), engine warmed up and running, I adjust the primary from a backed off position until I can hear a change in the primary noise, while you are adjusting it in by hand, it will begin making a whirring noise, from there I back the adjuster off until the noise stops. Its almost like adjusting a radio dial, tune it in until it makes noise then loosen it until it stops.

try backing it off another 1/4 turn , sounds like you're still a lil tight and thats not a good thing . the adjusting/limiting screw is a fairly fine thread and its better to be a lil loose than a lil tight .

this primary adjusting thing obviousely isnt an exact science or the same for any 2 bikes . the screw "limits" the travel of the tensioner unless its set too tight then it sets the tension which in your case it is now .

try backing it off say 1/4 turn even 1/2 too be on the safe side .

****DISCLAIMER ******** this is just my personal opinion ; )
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Woody1911a1
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

lol thanx swampy and ez , while i was busy typing with one finger ......
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It makes me glad that everyone is happy!
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Nytrashman
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 05:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for all the great help & advise. i do have one final question though. if i leave the primary chain adjusted to where it is making that whirring noise, will that cause any damage? i really like the way the bike shifts but i just want to make sure nothing bad will happen because of the whirring noise it is now making.

thanks again
George
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't remember, but I am thinking that when I adjusted it from being loose, as I tightened it I heard the whirring noise, then I just backed it off until I didn't. From the point of just hearing the whirring noise and backing it off until I couldn't hear it was like a half turn.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
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Joey
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used to hear whirring noises, valve noises, etc. I used to think I had a box of rocks. Now all I hear is PUTT! PUTT! PUTT! What am I doing wrong? Oh, sorry. That's for the exhaust section...
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Joey!

LOL!
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Nytrashman
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

no more clutch troubles i adjusted the primary chain and my clutch works great, the bike shifts much better, it does not chirp when taking off nor does it clunk when shifting anymore. i want to thank everyone who took the time to help me with this, i really appreciate it.

George
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, November 10, 2006 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So what did you do?
Was it too tight?
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Nytrashman
Posted on Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 05:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes Swampy it was too tight. after tightening it to 24 inch lbs i backed off 7 flats and the differance is like night & day.
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 08:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great!

Is it going to snow where you are at today?
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nytrashman:

Are you saying the "FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL"
is wrong by it saying to adjust the primary chain too tight ???

Anyway, that is what "i" have been saying
all a long that the "FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL" has been wrong !!!

The "DIFFERANCE IS LIKE NIGHT & DAY" in a
lot of other things, ie: motor drive shaft bearing, stator, clutch hub, primary chain,
transmission main shaft, primary chain adjuster shoe !!!

When the "ADJUSTER SHOE" has deep wear marks from the primary chain it is telling you somebody has been adjusting it too tight ...

Remember this: "The BLAST is idiot proof and fool proof, "BUT" not SERVIVE MANUAL PROOF or Harley-Davidson technician proof !!!"

In BLASTing
LaFayette
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Nytrashman
Posted on Saturday, November 11, 2006 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

nope no snow today but dispite the fact the weather men call for sunny & 65 it is cloudy, looks like rain and only about 45. sure sounds like great riding weather to me

(Message edited by nytrashman on November 11, 2006)
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Allenbassin
Posted on Monday, February 26, 2007 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If anyone interested when I adj. my primary to tight it blew my clutch basket retaining ears of . good thing only 35.00 blast parts are reasonably priced I like that.Swampy was right my basket was runnied .
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