| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Checked everything - for some reason the flasher just died - switched out flasher with black bike all normal on the red bike - go figure the flasher is only a little over 6 mo old - ah well. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A flashers purpose is to go out at the most confusing time, like when its new or when you've just done some work to your bike, or when you've had your bike apart a few months or not ridden it in awhile. It holds a small gremlin inside! | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - had a nice experimental ride - new brakes on the black front, caliper on down - new rear braided long rear line - so fresh fluid and everything - nice and the reds carb tunning is really helping it keep up with the Black - I am pleased there as well - all I can say is that the bike becomes much more responsive and linear - easily hitting the limiter when the carb is properly tuned - really surprised Scott - he of course wants me to repeat it on his bike - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
Help! TPS question. Can someone measure the resistance across the ground and TPS pins on the connector where the ignition module plugs in and open and close the throttle and describe what he sees? I'm looking for minimum and maximum resistance and smoothness between them during throttle twist. Thanks!!! | ||
| Joey |
Ok, more details. I'm trying to read the TPS, but it is very erratic. I'm wondering if this is common, or if I need to get a new TPS. If it's common, I may just use a standard vacuum advance scheme. | ||
| Swampy |
I will check for you tomorrow. You just want me to read resistance right? If you put a TPS on a scope you can see the dip on one if it has one, as the scope is much more sensitive than an ohm meter. | ||
| Joey |
Ooh! Scope is better! Thanks! | ||
| Swampy |
I knew you already knew that....I was just letting everyone else know I knew....LOL | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oscilloscope? WAH>>>WAH>>>GEEK ALERT>>>GEEK ALERT>>>WAH>>>WAH>>> . Do you guys have Radio Shack T shirts too? Sorry, the only time I've seen scopes (besides high school) was on a bench with piles and piles of electronic parts, usually in a cluttered garage or basement next to the Dungeons and Dragons game! Just kidding! damn, I've always wanted one of those...hmmm...maybe someone will trade me Blast parts for one... | ||
| Jprovo |
Erik - If you really want one, I've got one you can pick up when you drop off the frame tomorrow... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LOL! I should have known! | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Swampy |
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| Joey |
So, there I was, about to set up some timing curves, and my TPS went from about 2% to 40% throttle with almost no motion. From there, motion was erratic from 40% to 100%. Mind you, the 40% was actually more like 5%. Is it worth it to change the TPS for $55, or will a vacuum sensor attached to the vacuum advance line on the carburetor give me what I want? What did you find, Swampy? Someone else asked about my ignition project, so, of course, I mentioned your contribution to "the cause."  | ||
| Swampy |
Sorry, I have been real busy making my wife miserable. I will check later tonight. But I am sure it is supposed to be smooth. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Vacuum or throttle position? Vacuum tells alot about what is going on in the engine. Throttle position doesnt tell you much unless the module is also relating it to actual rpm. Is a new TPS going to be anymore accurate? I'd go for vacuum. Its more of the standard system (unless there are other models/brands using TPS to an advantage) and more data is probably readily available. TPS would be great if linked to vacuum, rpm, knock & oxygen sensors, etc. Vacuum I think would be simpler. You have done way more research on this than I have though. | ||
| Joey |
TPS will be related to RPM, but so will vacuum. I'm not looking at manifold pressure, just the vacuum advance line. That would be the most straightforward. If my TPS is bad, are other Blast TPSs going to be bad as well? What's the failure rate? Since the stock module has two advance curves above idle--partial throttle and >50%, most Blasters are likely to never notice the TPS going bad if it sort of works like mine. If there are lots of TPSs bad, people who try my module may not have good results. If I just spend another $6-10 for the vacuum sensor, the TPS won't matter. Anybody else want to check the swing on their TPSs? It should be smooth from idle to full throttle if you hook an ohm meter between ground and the TPS pin on the Deutsch connector. If it jumps erratically, that's bad. Who can help me with statistics? Thanks!!! | ||
| Jimrich |
Are the symptoms of a failing ignition mentioned in the link below, the following? Riding along 40 miles an hour, bike slows down, lagging, like I came off the throttle (but I didn't). I give it more throttle, it a small backfire (POP) then, power returns. Whole process is about 2 to 5 seconds. Figure it has happened 3 times; once today, and once Monday from a stop into a left turn, and one other time when I first got the bike. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=20164&post=507657#POST507657 | ||
| Swampy |
Yup! Thats it. You need to follow the checklist first of things that fail, easiest to hardest, and when you get to the bottom of the list, change the module. Joey found a broken pin on my old module, at the Hall Effect switch. You can probably ride that thing for a long time before it completely fails, but after you change it you will find yourself asking yourself why you waited so long. | ||
| Jimrich |
Loose spark plug cable... How do I know, my little blue blastard left me on the side of the interstate. Wouldn't start. Wouldn’t turn over, I thought the module had died. After walking it a mile and a half to get underneath an over pass to get out of the feels like 104 degree heat, I sat next to my bike waiting for my friend to come and get me and notice a wire with a 90 degree boot hanging off the side. You !*&*(&#&%(&@)(# I said and I plugged the cable back up. And she started right up. The cable is still very loose. I plan to replace. Should I go with a different plug as well? I notice the new user FAQ offers stock, but there are other references about different ones. Anyone want to give me a recommendation on plug/wire combo? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Make sure the end is tight on the plug (some/most aftermarket plugs, this end must be screwed on and Loctited otherwise it will vibrate loose). If it isnt loose, leave it alone.On the stock plugs I have seen this end is not removable and you'll break the plug trying to screw it on (or off). Unless there is a lot of miles on this bike or something is visibly wrong with the plug wire, use some needle nose pliers and close down the connection inside the boot. There is no guarantee that the new plug wire you buy will have a tight fit! Unless there's a lot of miles on this bike I wouldnt waste money on a new plug or wire (unless you want too-there's nothing wrong with a little improvement). Stock plug wires are sufficient. Better plugs can be had. I prefer Splitfire (or Buell Pro series). Others have their preference. | ||
| Xgecko |
making new plugwires is easier and cheaper than buying them plus you can get them in cool colors. As for plugs there is a strong contingent here that believe's in Iridium plugs they certainly seem to last a long time (Message edited by xgecko on August 13, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
Check the easy things first! I am glad it was easy for you! Go with some sort of aftermarket spark plug wire end. I used an NGK and have not had any problems as of yet. | ||
| Ezblast |
Iridium plugs rock!  | ||
| Jimrich |
Thanks for all your suggestions,  --Swampy. Gearheaderiko I thought of the needle-nose idea but unlike a car, the bikes plug ring is super tiny, I was afraid of breaking it. Rather have a bike to ride, then not while I am waiting for a part to arrive!  Random Thought: only one cylinder on the blast why not two plugs? Like the Ford Ranger? EZ/Swampy you got a part num on the NGK wire and Iridium plug? Is the NGK a build-your-own, or an all in one? If it is a build-your-own what tools should I have? Thanks Again.... | ||
| Swampy |
The NGK sparkplug cap was a build your own. Bring side cutters and some ignition wire lube. Cut the wire, lube the cable, run the boot up the cable, thread the cap end on the wire and slide the boot onto the cap. There is a boot that goes over the spark plug opening on the cap. | ||
| Jimrich |
Gearheaderiko http://www.buell.com/en_us/gear/accessories/Produc t.asp?Menu_ID=2&ProductLineID=5&CategoryID=1&Produ ctID=186 Is this the plug? Should I worry about the Race Application Only ??? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Splitfire# SF416D I do not know what the Buell #32822-01Y crosses over to and I couldnt find a cross reference chart that would tell me. Likely its a colder plug and that could lead to fouling ('Race application'only indicates its a colder plug-nothing else is different). But the above Spitfire # is for a stock Blast (and probably cheaper than the Pro Series). (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 14, 2007) | ||
| Ezblast |
What would cause a Regulator to bleed? EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Boo!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, nothing comes readily to mind. By 'bleed' do you mean draining the battery while turned off? or leaking black fluid? Or is it not charging? |
