| Author | Message | ||
     Kustomklassix |
I guess all of the makes sense. I was just tired when I saw it (look at the time I posted lol) so I snapped and picked out all the obvious issues to me. I know this isn't the place for this, but quick question. I just got in from removing my clutch cable (ma Blast is still in a gazillion pieces so I'm doing a few things now I should have last fall) and as long as I'm in the process of shtuff, is the 5-Speed Smooth Shift from Baker a worthy upgrade? It is pretty much the only tranny mod I plan on doing, but I wasn't going to do it if it isn't worth it. Does anyone else on here have it installed? If so, do you like it? | ||
| Ezblast |
If you check the regular KV or ask Terry Parsley - the answer would be yes, however, many ordinary riders where happy just updating the gears to new and switching over to the Baker Drum kit - shifting improved a 1000% and all tranny issues disappeared. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Naustins been around awhile, so he knows whats up. He just wanted to know if his current jetting was going to be too rich if he went back to a stock exhaust. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
For Sportster shift lever info: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/180020.html 1991-2003 fits but it is really short. Shifting improves, but it takes a strong foot or a stiff, small, foot. Better is to drill and tap the shifter for an extra peg. A small diameter peg works best as used on some Tuber buells and rear set controls. The fat ones used on most Harleys (and some Buells) are a little cumbersome to me. I used a 5/12 bolt and rubber tubing. Drill and tap for 5/16" fine thread. The stock Blast peg uses 5/16" coarse, but is (as far as I know) the only Buell/HD to use coarse thread. You'll have more options with fine thread (unless you just use a bolt-then you'll have a spare if the stock peg gets 'lost'). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS When it comes to the Blast, the dealer is usually wrong!  | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - heres where I'm at - the solenoid will do its clicking thing, tic,tic,tic,tic,...but the starter wont turn over - is there a way to jump the starter directly from the battery to the starter - do I run a wire from where to where - try turning her over that way? The clicking is annoying because it tells me everything going to the solenoid is working - but that either the solenoid arm isn't turning the starter or the starter won't turn - how do I figure which it is? EZ | ||
| Swampy |
DID you check your battery voltage? Not cranking/cranking? Usually the sound of click, click, click is an indication that your battery voltage is too low. How are the battery terminal? Sis we not just go through this a short time ago? You replaced your battery and found something else wrong? Did you figure a way to ship hooch? I could send it as a human organ, I have seen them in the luggage compartments of the Greyhounds I check. | ||
| Reuel |
Find a heavy gauge wire, connect one end to the battery, and the other end to the starter solenoid. It should kick over if your battery is good. | ||
| Wardan123 |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-Buell-Blast-Right-Side-Pegs-and-Support-SEE-ALL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35565QQihZ021QQitemZ310042996460QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Interesting Blast project...  | ||
| Ezblast |
Battery is good - not cranking cranking - the whir whir part - solenoid is ticking but no turning of starter - I'll try the direct wire trick and let you know. Tried it - all I get is the same rapid solenoid clicking - did I perhaps fry my starter with the shock oil bath , or perhaps just the solenoid - cause I'm sure its one of the two now - how do I eliminate one from the other - to figure which is bad? replacing the solenoid would not be easy, but it would be doable without the complete tear down that the starter would need to be replaced. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 19, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Just wrap it in a world of bubble wrap and mail it - my post-mans pretty cool- lol EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
EZ I think someone may have already mentioned this but.. There should be two wires going to your starter, A big one and a little one. The big one should have 12V constantly, the small one will have 12v only when you try to start it. (maybe I'm thinking of a car starter but they should be similar) You can try laying a screwdriver from the big wire to the small one. You should get a spark and it should spin. If not you might not have 12V at the big wire or the starter is shot. Gina's sporty did something similar last summer and we found that the terminal on the end of the big wire was broken. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks - I'll check that out - so its looking like a fried starter - huh - cause I did the direct wire from the battery to the big wire on the starter and just got the rapid clicking. No whir whir of the motor trying to turn over. EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
EZ is there a second smaller wire to the starter? | ||
| Ezblast |
To the Solenoid - I think - not to the starter. There is the cross over wire to the starter from the solenoid - that is it for the starter itself - I think. EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Sorry EZ I guess thats what I meant, one wire (the big one to the starter and the smaller wire to the solenoid. Jump the two together and it should engage and spin. I'd look real close at the big wire. You should have 12V on the big wire at the starter, Thats important). Last summer, Gina's sporty would only click, click, click.. At first the big wire looked good but when we checked under the rubber bootie I saw the the terminal (loop) end was cracked. It looked normal until I pulled on it a little and saw that it had actually cracked. One last thought.. Your clutch (flywheel) might have a big hairy burr on it that is preventing the starter teeth from engaging. Try putting the bike in gear and rolling it enough to spin the clutch. Is it a click, click, click, like a contacts touching or a clunk, clunk, clunk like a starter jumping out but not spinning? Do you have a VOM? Are you sure the battery has at least 12V? There should be a relay as well, is that what is clicking? | ||
| Reuel |
Check your ground connection at the starter and the battery! | ||
| Swampy |
Why you are getting the clicking is the solenoid engages and completes the circuit for the starter, the starter draws the voltage down to the point where the solenoid disengages and since the starter button is still engaged the solenoid reengages completing the circuit for the starter again making the click,click,click. Check for battery connections grounds starter connections and the wires connecting. Check for voltage while cranking. BTW, what is that EBAY thing? | ||
| Ezblast |
Right - I just replaced the isolator, so I made sure the front ground was clean and tight, I checked the rear ground and made sure it was tight and clean - replaced both relays, made sure battery is good and all wiring looks good - checked for voltage - its there - will check the wiring again to the starter, but I have little hope of finding a flaw there - starting to look like a bummed starter huh? However, I will inspect the wires again looking for what you described. Swampy's right on the sound, and every time I test juice is going through. There is definitely voltage while cranking - lol - going to the dentist then back to the bike - sigh Looks like someone wants to blow up a Blast - turbo and fuelly tank, perhaps NOS as well - lol EZ | ||
| Edward4130 |
Does anyone have the parts list or a Exploded view of the Airbox to the carb? The paper gasket is tore and the coupleing ring is cracked as well as the airbox a bit next to the barb. It's working fine but I wanted to know the parts so I can order and replace before it becomes an issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
You been pmed Edward! | ||
| Traceandy |
I am changing the rocker box gaskets on my wifes blast. Could anyone help me out with the torque specs | ||
| Ezblast |
Traceandy - pm Edward and he'll hook you up! OK - latest round of testing - Testing all the positive wires with my meter - those to the stator - the crossover and green - coming from the battery on one pointer the red and touching the lead ins of the above with the meter both gave a 12.89 reading - showing completion, while the main positive wire from the battery to the Starter showed Zero - so this is the wire set to replace right? From the constant flexing from the corbin seat and on and offs from the battery - I don't really know, however, the other 2 wires show continuity while this one doesn't - so I'm sure that means it must need replacing. I'm sure some of you guys would just R&D the wire and fix it,however, I would never trust not to have something else go wrong - so its time to replace it - right? EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Check your cables at the ends, right by the lugs some time corrosion builds up and they make poor connection....didn't you go through this a while back when you thought the battery was bad? | ||
| Awf_hand |
I used the instructions for installing Buell OEM handguards on my P3 this weekend. I'd ordered all the parts on the list and followed the instructions as written -mostly. The parts list had correct pricing (to the penny) for every item except the bar-end plugs. They were $7.90 at my shop. YMMV. I also varied from the instructions in that I used a deep-well socket to drive those bar-end plugs in. This saved the ends from a beating. I did have to heat the inner-most ridge on the plugs to be able to drive them in, but, save for a blood-blister on my finger (started with a std socket for driving) all went well and took about 30 minutes to complete. Many thanks to the writer of the parts list and those instructions for installation of the handguards. -I put on a tank bag too -Nelson Rigg 450. Limited complexity there however. Just don't get the magnetic bag. If you have to ask why, well, maybe read the instructions with the product... | ||
| Ezblast |
Nope - that was when the ignition handlebar switch went on the red bike - now black - after the step-son wrecked it - lol - two Blasts dailly ridden - about 100 miles a week min. keeps one busy - lol EZ | ||
| Kustomklassix |
I know I'm artarded  , but I can't really tell from the Blast parts manual if this " #5675BR 96-01 Braided SS Clutch Cable S1 S1W M2 S3 S3T X1 " (http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5675.html) or these " 17157 - Clutch Lever, Black, OEM, With pivot HW, Tube Frame" and " 17162 - Front Brake Lever Kit for Nissin Master Cylinder, Black " ( http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17157.html and http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17162.html )} will fit a Blast. Also, on a side note, how come nobody ever said anything about how much of a BEYOTCH it is to separate the frame from the engine at the back mount on the trans?!?!?!? AHH!! | ||
| Ezblast |
It would all probably work. I know the levers will. EZ | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Thanks EZ, as always, you da man!  I think I spend too much time on Ebay searching for Blast stuff...even so, I'm undecided on if this is really cool, or uber lame. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/buell-blast-book-of -matches_W0QQitemZ300217116119QQcmdZViewItem | ||
| Ezblast |
Add gas to bike and then apply matches? - is this more Buelistic alternative maintenance? - lol - EZ |
