| Author | Message | ||
     Robdog88 |
hello all, i'm new here, i just purchased my first motorcycle. It is a red 2003 Buell Blast with 872 miles on it. it was lady owned before i got it. i feel that i made a good deal by paying 2400 for it. any thoughts? i've been lurking for a while and now that i own i figured i'd join up. | ||
| Ezblast |
Howdy Rob! Welcome - thats a very good deal! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Badweb Robdog88! From one Rob to another! You did OK on the price. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Robdog! Glad you found one of the many low Mileage Blasts that are out there. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/253601.html?1206410772 Gbaz, moved your coil post to the ignition modules thread. Handy bit of info! | ||
| Drone |
hello all, I recently bought a 2000 blast for my wife and have a simple question...is it normal for the oil level to be too high on dipstick when the bike is cold? I checked after a lil riding around in the alley and there was no oil registering at all after I shut it down and waited a few minutes?! What the hell is going on? what level do i trust? I don't want to risk running it too low in order to get the oil hot enuff to read properly...any suggestions? thanx -drone | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Drone! Normally, the engine oil level is low when cold. It can even look empty. But you say its full when cold (un-started)? Then the oil disappears after its started? Does the oil level return after it sits? Are you adding oil then it disappears? I'm perhaps having a little trouble understanding the question since it seems completely opposite from whats normal. | ||
| Drone |
yup,u got it right! I'm lost as well, when I changed the oil, I filled it to just a lil above the full line since it's a new oil filter too, went for a run, then checked it after 5 minutes and there was nothing on it! so I figured good, it's warmed up now I just have to top it up...topped it to the full line, went for a ride, then 5 mins later it read almost 2x over full! I drained it back down to the max line again. took it for a ride and...u guessed it , no oil! I left it for 4 hrs today and still registers no oil, so i just topped it up to about the middle between min and max...I'll run it tomorrow and see what happens next! LOL I like the lil bike, but I prefer my duc! (Message edited by drone on March 26, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Seems very erratic. If the bike reads full when you park it, let it sit long enough(days,weeks) and it will register empty and you'll be able to see the frame through the oil fill. Start it and when its fully warmed up, it'll read full again. Engine only takes 2 quarts max, if you change the filter and drain the crankcase. Usually adding 1 1/2 quarts after the oil change usually puts it at full (see various oil threads). Its usually a good idea to only have the 2 quarts on hand and keep track of how much you put in, then you know if you need more than 2qts, there is a problem. Its almost impossible for the oil level to rise in the frame from just sitting. Its usually a good idea to check it immediately after a ride,hot, upon shutting the bike down. If you might forget the level, write it down. It might be best if the oil level is this erratic to drain the oil, filter and crankcase and start over (keeping track of the oil put in). Early Blasts had a oil pump drive gear failure problem and as the gear wore it would cause the rider to keep adding oil as it wasnt getting pumped out of the crankcase and into the frame. The Blast tends to run rather badly at this point, but it will run. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS The distance between the fill lines is not a quart. Its maybe 8 ounces (havent measured). | ||
| Drone |
 ya it's odd like I say, I think I will start over, but I'm kinda stubborn! I think by tomorrow I should have it under control, if not then I'll drain and do her over....it's a pain when it's -8 with 20/50 LOL! just like molasses in welll...canada!!! hehehhe thnx for ur help man I'll keep ya posted! | ||
| Gbaz |
Anyone ever think about trying these as rearsets? http://my-dynamic.com/inside/yohimora10.htm would still need a plate to mount them on, and the linkage for the shifter... | ||
| Imadreadhead |
those are awesome...its a good idea..i might try it | ||
| Drone |
so I checked the oil this morn when cold and it registered about 1/4 of the dipstick, took it for a lil run then checked and it was overfull(which i expected) I drained it to just above full line and ran it again, then the dipstick showed 2x too full so i drained it down to the full line again, ran it drained it ran it drained just a lil at a time...each time i ran it there was more oil registering on the stick than each time i drained it! I think it's sitting somewhere and takes a real good run to get it all out from where it's lying...I'm gonna plate it this afternoon and take it for a good run but what's the worse case scenario if there is too much oil init? | ||
| Imadreadhead |
or something like these http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-379/Uni versal-Rearsets--Folding/Detail | ||
| Reuel |
Sounds like you might not have warmed it up enough when you first filled it. I always do at least 15 minutes. It is likely to spew oil out the PCV opening for a little bit. I went through something similar when I thought it was low, but it wasn't. No apparent damage occurred. (Message edited by reuel on March 27, 2008) | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Badweb Drone! Minus 8 you say? You are going to have to ride that bike till the oil gets HOT then shut it off and check the oil level and adjust from there, I don't think you are letting the oil warm up hot enough and at the temperature you are describing and what I think you are experiencing is when the oil is that cold, air bubbles are trapped in the oil temporarily increasing the oil volume after you run it for short periods in extremely cold weather. Overnight the air works its way out of the oil leaving you with low oil level readings. That cold of temperatures you need to check the oil recommendations in the owners manual, I think 20W-50 is too heavy a weight oil. | ||
| Gbaz |
eather set would provide pegs, shifter, break mounting point. still need to make a plate. | ||
| Ezblast |
Nothing connecting to the shift shaft - to run the adjustable tie rod on - that is why I suggested modifying the stocker. EZ | ||
| Drone |
yup, thanx reuel and swampy! I believe it has everything to do with cold oil due to not running it long enough! yup temps are nippy so I'm gonna wait till tomorrow afternoon when thermometer goes to +7 run it good then re-check my levels thanx again guys! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Both rearsets are nice. Minor additions of XB or Tuber linkage may be all thats needed (besides the mounting plates). (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on March 28, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats sort of what I'm saying - lol EZ | ||
| Reuel |
So, I opened my Blast up to see if the oil pump gear had issues. It does! It's fairly minor at this point, but I figure I should replace it within 45,000 miles or so or it could be a problem. I grabbed the intake cam, and pulled it just slightly. It came out so easily! Oops! I tried to put it back in. It wouldn't go in. So, I got my B50s and went through the process of putting them in. If I get gasket leaks, I'll go ahead and replace them. I went for a quick ride, and found myself doing 85 where I usually only do about 60 when I push it. I also find that when I come off full throttle, I get power, so I'll be trying the 180 jet. Where are my shims? ... This is fun!!!  (Edited because of inebriation) (Message edited by reuel on March 28, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Thats sort of what I'm saying - lol "I was kinda saying, Concur! LOL! | ||
| Ezblast |
 |
