| Author | Message | |||
     Gearheaderiko |
StreetBlast, B50 cams. I really dont have anyplace but the racetrack or the dyno to test the raceBlast. With the ProSeries a/f it pulls fine all the way up to redline, no flat spot, but the power peaks at about 6800. Drops about 3hp between 6800-7500rpm, which only makes a difference in 5th gear. Otherwise it hits almost 90mph in 4th, quickly (in Blastspeak). With the stack anything over stock redline is bad. Same symptoms (but better) as when running the old stack 'filter', with or without new white 'filter' installed. My guess is either its too lean or unstable air flow. | |||
| Ezblast |
Check the sealing as well -the stack is hard plastic - the Pro-series is a very soft conforming plastic (read easier sealing) - I got through most of the early issues just by making sure the stack was sealed to the carb. EZ | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
While I doubt that will 'fix it', I respect the work you've already put into it and I will make sure its sealed. | |||
| Ezblast |
There will be a difference - I learned about bad air and sealing the intake when I was doing air box mods. EZ | |||
| Ezblast |
Another - working so far carb-bracing method - From 98acrsilver ok so i went to try to take a pic and basically its too dark under there to see a thing. but ill try to describe it. basically i ran a zip tie around the throttle cable bracket on the side of the carb up and around the upper engine torque strut, so its braced to the mount.. its not solid anything but id say it cut the shaking of the carb in half, and also i added a 3rd hose ring clamp to the intake boot itself. You have the 2 factory clamps and then i added a 3rd clamp in the middle of those 2. helpd quit a bit. My reply - Thank you for that info - with the springs my boots are lasting around 35000 miles, I have yet to see an after-market intake system of support last longer on the boot, but I'll try anything once and that does have some merit - though I worry about two more sharp edges now laying across soft rubber - I often thought a little extra rigidity molded in like a radiator hose with wire and fibre would probably do the trick for stock and a lightly supported carb/light-intake system. EZ | |||
| Buellistic |
the air box does a perfect job !!! | |||
| Ezblast |
Near perfect - the boots still end up cracking - usually around the 5,000 to 10,000 mile area. EZ | |||
| Ezblast |
Carb breakdown according to the parts manual. EZ | |||
| Reuel |
My nearest HD dealer doesn't have the 27241-95 needle. Will 27094-88 work as well? What do I accomplish by switching to this needle? | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Probably nothing. I'm guessing you got the needle # from BC rider? IF so, one needle listed (dont remember which) needs to be used with a different jet. I think thats the needle, then dont bother. Otherwise you'll be on your own, like going with a Dynojet kit. | |||
| Ezblast |
May prove usefull - http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm#cv_carb_parts_list This as well. EZ | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yep, thats the website! Lots of good info.  (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 16, 2008) | |||
| Buellistic |
no mention of the M2 Needle ??? | |||
| Reuel |
Tomorrow, I'm picking up a 180 and a 185. I've already shimmed the stock needle about .05" as suggested. So, am I good to just stick with the stock needle, or is there anything to gain by changing the needle at all? Here's the link that got me wondering. http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1022023 The Mike's Famous in Smyrna didn't have the NOKK, so he suggested that part number. My setup might be odd because the intake and exhaust are abnormal. (Message edited by Reuel on March 16, 2008) | |||
| Buellistic |
ever think about checking the timing to make sure it is correct ??? | |||
| Reuel |
I think of it every time I do a swap to test my prototype. How does timing cause leanness? | |||
| Buellistic |
the only way for you to prove one way or the other is to use a FUEL/AIR Gauge that none of you tuner's have !!! Do not tell me that they are too expensive when J.C. Whitney sells the necessary parts and you make your own for tuning ... | |||
| Ezblast |
We have that - check the alternative views section for specific parts from JCW that he is talking about - I'd rather just buy a tail end sniffer to check. EZ | |||
| Buellistic |
then why are 02 sensors put close to the exhaust port or to header/collector ... "SO", the DYNO sniffer sticks way up into the exhaust system ... | |||
| Reuel |
I've already considered the O2 sensor. How far from the exhaust port should it be? I don't have any qualms with getting it permanently mounted. I'll set up my own monitor, since I'll likely integrate it with the rest of my system. The tail end sniffer checks CO2 if you're talking about the one I think you are. O2 sensors work better when they're really hot, so they have to be close to the engine. | |||
| Reuel |
I changed to the XL needle, and put my shims on it. Everything else I left the same. It made quite a difference! I'll be doing that O2 sensor thing as soon as I can get funding. I have a flat notch (no longer a spot) that tells me I'm having a low to high speed jet transition issue. Someone called it the throttle cutaway. Anybody know details on this? | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Try removing or adding shims. By installing the skinnier needle you've (in theory) done just the same thing as adding more shims (only better).Its also the same as adding a bigger jet (until you hit WOT). You're now working from a different reference point (as if you'd installed a dynojet or other kit). | |||
| Ezblast |
Try removing shims - two different articles recommend no shimming with that needle - another recommends only one - .025. EZ | |||
| Buellistic |
FUEL/AIR Gauge will tell you more than just guessing ... | |||
| Reuel |
I believe I was running dangerously lean all this time. The spark plug was as white as the exhaust valve. Until I get an O2 sensor, I'm going to start reading spark plugs. After adjusting the clutch and putting all new fluids in, this morning I tried to stall the engine twice. It pulled right out, so something is working a whole lot better. | |||
| Toniportray |
HELP! I have raunchy gas mileage and I didn't used to. I've finally got the bike to run reliably at speeds above 60mph, but my gas mileage sucks. Sure some might say 61mpg is great for an automobile, but when it's a single cylinder motorcycle that acquires it's mileage from 90% freeway riding I would expect it to be closer to what it used to be (75-80mpg). I used to get this higher mileage just driving around town. I would expect higher mileage from riding the freeway. I know there's a lot to consider here and a lot of factors that affect gas mileage. Here's a little background that makes this issue all clear. After owning my Buell for 3 months a few years ago, it was stolen from my workplace and it was another 3 years before I ever saw it again. It was pretty badly abused when I got it back (I'm lucky I got it back at all), but I've pretty much restored everything back to normal (at a price, and after countless hours of hard, hard work). Now it gets 61mpg with 90% of riding on the freeway at an average speed of 70mph. I ride very gently, but not so gentle as to under-rev or over-stress the bike in any way. In other words, I'm not WOTing it at intersections or doing burnouts, etc. Before it was stolen from me, I had everything stock with a stock air filter. It now has everything stock except a KN filter was placed in. I would expect the KN filter to improve the gas mileage at least some... 61mpg is not acceptable considering the way I ride and how it used to perform. I welcome any advice on how this could be improved. The carbs were and probably are stock (I don't think the thief would have placed in new jets) and set at 2.5 turns out for the air/fuel mixture screw. If I turn this down to 2, would that improve at all? I'm running Mobil Delvac 15w40 Diesel motor oil in the engine (as I do my other bikes), and the tire pressures are where the book says they should be. I recently tuned the primary and got the tension correct and put fresh oil in the primary. Please help. Gas is now $3.79 here in Northern California and I'm a financially desperate PhD student who is willing to work hard to boost the gas mileage on the Blast. I welcome any advice and input. | |||
| Gearheaderiko |
Considering all the running problems you've had and "used to be" was 3 years ago(?), expecting 75-80mpg is unrealistic. How its running directly affects gas mileage. If is was running poorly when it got 75-80mpg, thats probably how it needs to run to get 75-80mpg. The TPS not working properly, the timing not right and from what I understand its still not running right, then optimum (or even good) gas mileage isnt likely.The engine has probably been abused by the thief which will also affect mileage. 70mpg is usually the best you'll get with a Blast. You can run it lean which will improve gas mileage, decrease performance and increase the chances of engine failure if you push it too far. 61mpg is nothing to scoff at and if your bike was running perfectly, then it might be too low. | |||
| Buellistic |
take the shims out from under the slide needle ... Do not drill out the hole in the slide so big ... | |||
| Ezblast |
Todays gasoline has alcohol in it so gas mileage suffers - yours is about right. EZ | |||
| Reuel |
I second EZ's comment on alcogas. |
