| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Actually crow's foot and socket become equivalent in this instance - especially since the example shows using a crow's foot and torquing to that spec. - otherwise your point would be solid, and is in general circumstances. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont see how they'd be the same. The manual assumes you know how to use tools and would recalculate if using a crowsfoot or anything other than a simple wrench & socket. | ||
| Ezblast |
The manual shows them using a crows foot, so you would suspect the spec is for that? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Maybe thats why the chain ends up being too tight on quite a few Blasts! It wouldnt be a true torque spec, they would have to specify the torque with the condition of using a crows foot. If you've taken the exhaust off, then the torque would be incorrect when using just a socket. They'd dont specify it either way, so you have to assume the traditional way is the right torque and anything else needs to be corrected. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" cured this "BUELLschitte" by putting a XB primary cover on my BLAST !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
When this was suggested on another board, this response came up: Time for me to weigh in on this. First, the crow's foot. If you have a good torque wrench there was a little manual that came with it with a number of formulas in it. Those are for adjusting your torque for various offsets like vertical or horizontal. With a crow's foot you have a horizontal offset to the torque moment. When you run the figures for anything under about 140 ft-lbs the correction factor is small enough to be within the tolerance range of the wrench (unless you have a VERY expensive wrench). The correction for a vertical offset (read: extension) is even smaller. So the rule of thumb is just ignore the corrections for a normal crow's foot. As to primary chain adjusting, if your chain is adjusted properly and your clutch bearings and main shaft bearings aren't worn there should be no effect. If the chain is too tight there is some side loads placed on the clutch basket which could cause a small deflection and adjustment problem, but more than likely will just cause drag of the clutch plates. If the chain is too loose, there should be no effect at all. Prof 02 Blast 85 FXRS with sidecar More fuel for the fire! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Save yourself the time and trouble and just adjust it by ear, it is very easy to do when you get the hang of it and after you get it right once you just don't have to monkey with it again, unless of course you take it apart or it gets really noisy. The big problem is setting it too tight, binding the clutch, causing it to drag, or even worse causing excess wear on the transmission imput shaft or crank shaft bearings or even breaking the clutch hub. Too loose and you will get alot of noise. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The crows foot not making enough difference makes sense. What we do know is that chains are often adjusted too tight and as Swampy pointed out it can do a lot of damage. Chains too loose can also cause problems of excess vibration, accelerated wear, decrease in power and top speed. Noise isnt the only drawback. On a unrelated note, I cant for the life of me figure out how to start a new thread! Am I losing it or did something change. True, I rarely start them (most everything is already covered) but I know its not that hard. Maybe its just too early. Anyway, I'm off to Death Valley for the weekend. Riding, but not Blasting. See you monday. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Hi Swampy Thanks again for your advice and guidance. It wasn't a bad job, it just looks scary in the manual.. The "tool" worked great, I went with 4 1/4" long with the ends filed like this /---------/. I think that if I were to do this job again I might shorten the "Tool" by 1/16" or 1/8" and make the ends look like this <----->. At 4 1/4" it was a bit too long to seat in nicely and kept falling out whenever there wasn't rotational pressure from the sprockets to hold it in. I "deviated" somewhat from the instructions in the manual. With the #32 drill bit in place, I pressed down on the crank and tightened the nuts. When I double checked with the bit I found that it was still loose so I did the procedure again, this time instead of pushing down on the crank, I pushed the entire assembly (by pushing the top of plate with he slots under the nuts) to the right. This worked much better to keep the drill bit a snug fit. | ||
| Ezblast |
The stock inspection cover screw is 1/4"x20x7/8" per the manual - is that correct - I want to get the right helicoil kit from ye ole Napa. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I sure hope those specs are right - I just ordered the Kit - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the clutch cable where it screws into the primary cover? I need a helicoil, and would rather have everything together before I tear the bike apart. | ||
| Ezblast |
Same as your primary case bolts GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Which are the same as the primary inspection cover bolts with the specs 6 posts above! GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 05, 2007) | ||
| Jadow |
Can I ask a gearing question? Lets just say I was curious and found the motor sprocket for a blast has 35 teeth. And I was thinking about the old race days with XRs. and how they use different motor sprockets for 1/4 and mile tracks. So I was thinking that an XB9 uses a 34 tooth motor sprocket. So I said why not! Installed the 34 with matching primary chain. Only clitch was I had to make a longer adjusting screw and adjust primary chain tension by sound. I really like this combo for the street, but it does add motor Rpm for highway travel. So I was thinking. Drag offers a 28tooth pulley sprocket (stock is 27) and Andrews Manufacture states for an additional tooth the belt must move closer by .125". Now thats not much. The question I have is will this change in final drive allow me to have my cake and ice cream too? Great in town pickup and smoother performance while still allowing the 1 lunger the room to stretch out on the open road? OH how the dark side calls when you have time to think with a parts manual in front of you. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Unless you change tranny gearing, you're just changing the same gearing but in different places (make sense?). I dont think the 28 tooth sprocket is for a Blast (too wide), but you could machine it down. With a worn belt you might get away with 1/8" tighter (or mod the axle holes. | ||
| Ezblast |
If you have not tried this yet, go by the book and do the full primary chain adjustment, and the full clutch adjustment... don't skip any steps or fudge any measurements. And adjust the shift lever so it is acting at a 90 degree angle as it approaches the end of its travel, and is a good position for you as you sit on the bike. Made a big difference for me. For clunks - usefull info. | ||
| Stiguy |
Hey guys, wasn't too sure if I should post this here or in the engine mount section, but here it is. The Blast is an '06 with about 2300 miles on it. At 2k I was checking around the bike to make sure everything was sound. And I had made note of two things. One, was a small oil dripping/leak/stain on the front of the jug. But, with the power being right at where it is supposed to be I figured all was good. And I've since found this to be a bad gasket under the rocker box and it's getting fixed. The second issue, and the one that I'm asking you guys about, was a bolt (one of four for this particular flange) had snapped it's head off. Being that it was only one of four, and I couldn't really see what it was for, I figured that it was ok to ride down to the dealer to see whats up and find out if this stuff was covered under warranty. I went down last Saturday, to have it checked out. This is now 300 miles after the last HUGE inspection I made on the bike and had actually become complacent about the snapped bolt head and didn't think about checking it before heading out. But, sometime between when I found the initial bolt head problem and when I made it down to the dealer, as I was showing the issue to a tech I found that another bolt head had snapped. Scary thing is, I finally realized that these bolts are what held the upper frame of the bike to the back of the trans case! The interesting thing is that there was NO difference in riding the bike with 4 bolts or 2. Being that it had been 7 days today since I dropped the Blast off and I hadn't heard anything yet. I thought that I would pay the guys a visit. They just got the bolts today (they are replacing all 4 and changing the rocker box gasket [the source of the oil down the front of the jug] under warranty) and should be extracting the snapped bolts as soon as the shop manager has time to supervise with undivided attention (stainless hardware with aluminum case = TIGHT sphincter for all involved). I was also assured that there would be a conversation with Buell engineers regarding this issue, just because it's kinda serious and hasn't been seen by these mechanics before. But, they don't get back from break until after the 2nd. Have any of you guys seen or heard about this? All maintenance is done on or ahead of time. There have never been any wheelie/stoppie action on the bike, it may have seen a total of a 1/4 mile of rocks/dirt/etc and is ridden almost entirely as JUST a commuter of 40 miles per day 5 days a week. With the occasional (once a month) touring ride. The 2300 has been done since late July. Thanks for reading. Brett | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper forum Stiguy! I have never heard of the rear engine isolator bolts breaking, before this. I have replaced a bunch of front ones before. | ||
| Ezblast |
A few Blasts have had this problem - especially when a mech has messed with one of those bolts to make doing the rockerbox easier - they are 1 use only bolts - and at the least if 1 is replaced - they all should be replaced and the bolt holes checked for correctness and then the bolts correctly torqued into place. I'd keep an eye on them for a bit afterwards - if not correctly done - a similar results will occur again, damage to the head mounting holes can result and should be constantly watched for - but if the bolts hang out past 6mo then you should be ok for long term. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on December 30, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
what is that got to do with changing the rocker arm gaskets ??? | ||
| Ezblast |
The inexperienced often remove the wrong bolts in various scenarios - you know that - thats how mechanics get half their business - lol EZ | ||
| Stiguy |
The rocker box gaskets haven't been replaced YET, they are being done in conjunction with the busted bolts. As far as I know there hasn't been any other maintenance to the bike, other than the standard stuff. The mechanic said he would be replacing all four before I insisted on it. I figured one would be an anomaly, but two is a batch error. And it's just good engineering practice to get away from that bad batch. Thanks for the welcome and advise. Brett | ||
| Baggermike |
Hey guy's Happy New Year, I got the clutch fixed and now the shifter need work I do not understand the reasoning of putting a smooth thing on the shifting shaft then you bolt the shifter peg to it, this has to be the dumbist thing I have seen, or is it for wiping out and then that would be smart but having trouble with my sons bike. does anyone know of a shifter that will fit on the shifting shaft or spine. let me know at baggermike@verizon.net thanks Mike | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/180020.html | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
pm sent! The Blast shifter works fine. A little red Loctite and it wont slip or you can drill it for a set screw. Its made to be fully adjustable, hence the extra collar. | ||
| Stiguy |
Well, there is more info that came my way this weekend. The dealer tried to get the bolts out and couldn't get it done. Actually cracked the trans case. So, there was a new case that was ordered and I should hear from them today some time. | ||
| Buellistic |
wonder how that BUTCHER managed that ??? | ||
| Stiguy |
I can imagine with SS hardware and an aluminum case that it isn't that hard to do. I'll kill SS-SS with hand tools. Anyhow, I didn't hear anything yesterday, so I'll be stopping by today to see how things are progressing. It's killing me because the weather is f'ing beautiful. |
