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Buell Motorcycle Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » Ignition, Battery, Charging System - Electronic Trouble shooting » Ignition Modules » Archive through March 21, 2007 « Previous Next »

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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 01:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for the sake of the archives:

After installing a Screaming Eagle adjustable ignition in the Blast it wouldn't start (it would run, but was very difficult to start). Although the battery was on its last legs,it would start fine with the stock module.
Installed a good battery and it fired right up.
The conclusion is the SE ignition draws more current than the stock module and if the battery is NG then you'll have problems (the SE instructions do note to be sure the wiring is up to snuff).
We did have the same hard start problem with the racebike, but I wasn't able to verify the old battery as being a direct cause until now.

3/3/07 I wont retract the above statement, but it seems that SE ignition module was defective and although the circumstances pointed directly to the forgone conclusion, the module is defective so I dont think it can hold much merit. The conclusion might be the same, but I dont have reliable evidence anymore.

(Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 03, 2007)
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Kdkgrizz
Posted on Monday, January 29, 2007 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you know the P/N of the SE Ignition Module??
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, January 29, 2007 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Read above section
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, January 29, 2007 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

32942-02
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you think the ignition is drawing .4 volts off the top for a 12.8 charging vs a 13.2 that is stock?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2007 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No! Regrettably I dont have the time to check charging specs (on the bike) for you.
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Bhawk
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wasup Gear,
just a quik quest.lookin for the cat whos
been throo 2 or more Ign. mods.on the blast
hope its good fer ya
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bhawk, I'm completely confused
I think Swampy's been through a couple ignition modules and I've been through a few on different bikes.
Whats the question?

(Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 07, 2007)
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced one on the Big Kids Blast a while back. It was the module that was acting up, cutting out, backfiring, loosing power, then over time finally quitting only to restart when I got there to rescue it!
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is that the one you sent me?
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup!
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of the three wires on the hall-effect sensor was broken.
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Bhawk
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gear,heregoes.the B had set for a couple
of years,at about 700 mi.<got>
she started to act up,wound up bein the mod.
anyway,at about what point will it fail again<shes>given its location near all that heat,your best SWAG please.
thanks
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 02:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe never. It seems that the early years (2000-2001) were more prone to failure (my observations). It may never fail again. Seriously. There is no reason to suspect it will fail again unless you purchased an old stock module or a related problem causes early failure (loose wires, shorts, etc).
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dang! Joey, thats cool that you could figure that out!

You must be some sort of electrical genuis, I should have paid more attention to that stuff in school! How did you figure it out? I hope you can use it for the cause....
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
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Joey
Posted on Saturday, March 10, 2007 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to take all that rubbery crap they put in there first. I sucked the solder off the 3 pins that connected to the hall-effect sensor. I then had to break the plastic apart to get it separated. The hall-effect sensor had 3 wires, but part of one was still in the circuit board.



I should be able to solder a wire to it, and make it work.

Oh--I got my PIC programmer yesterday, so now I'm ready to start testing code! Woohoo!
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Creepingmee
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

help!!!

I just installed a crane hi-4 in my 2001 blast. The bike runs, but runs poorly and
has an erratic idle. Anyone help with this?
I was under the impression that it was the
same as the pro series!?! maybe someone
could help me that has a pro series as I
don't have the docs for the blast just the
ones that came from crane and they don't
mention the blast.

thanks
-Marc
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can email you the docs for the SE ignition. Does it have the switch for single or twin mode (or does it say in the instructions what to turn the mode switch to)?
Is the timing cup tight?
Are the auto enrichner and TPS wires hooked up? You might want to try disconnecting them (from the carb) and see if the problem goes away. The advance curve switch can make a difference, but not much. Is the timing correct?

I had erratic idle problems with mine and I believe EZ also had the same type of problems with his(?). It turned out to be the timing cup for me.
Have you changed anything else besides the ignition?
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Creepingmee
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Please email me the docs for the se ignition.
From what I understand, the crane hi-4 is the same as the SE?!?! It has the 4 rotary switches for mode, curve, rpm limit X1000, rpm limit X100. I wired the enrichener to ground so that the heating element would work. I have checked and set the timing all over the place in an effort to get the bike running well. It runs it just runs like crap.. No matter where I set the timing. It works with the factory ign. fine. But when it gets hot the factory module quits.
Then when the bike cools it runs fine again.
I bought the crane to replace it and now it won't quit when hot like the factory one, but it just runs poorly. thanks for any
info you can give me.

-Marc
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Marc, please pm me your email address! (hidden in your profile)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the heating element not work when the ignition was hooked up without the ground?
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure your charging system is up to snuff and your battery is good, the SE/Crane does draw more juice than stock, my experience currently when I compare my two bikes. Also - does it idle fine when warmed up - say after a 1/2 hr riding? I didn't touch the carb TPS at all and the only effect I got from that is that it shuts off too early and I have to keep its idle at 1000 for its first 15 min. on and riding when at idle. If stock head gear, then 6500rpm would be where to set your RPMs, 5 for the curve setting, I think its two for the mode - that should cover it. Timming set static just the same as stock. If your going to do a custom curve, you'll have to have their software and cord to hook it up to the laptop - they sell it.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Usefull link -
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/24366.html?1061758974
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Creepingmee
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It always runs poorly no matter how long it's running. The heating element is grounded by the stock mod. and cannot work without that ground. Mode 2 according to the docs are for single fire mode!?! It won't run at all in mode 2. It dosn't matter where I set the curve it always runs bad. THIS SUX!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure how you grounded the heating element, but I'd disconnect it and see what happens.

I am curious to know if the SE ignition does indeed disable the auto enrichener. The instructions say nothing about it and I never checked. I do know the TPS acts a little funky (as EZ stated) so we disconnected it.
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Creepingmee
Posted on Sunday, March 18, 2007 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the SE docs gearheaderiko, it is
def. not the same module and the crane. They look the same but the 2 have all different wires and maps... I think i screwed up buying the crane. Damn....

-Marc
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Creepingmee
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 01:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks EZ, Gearheaderiko, Ralph, and anyone else who helped me. The old version of the
hi-4 is the same as the screamin eagle, however the current ones are NOT the same at all. I had to cut a 2nd notch in the timing rotor to tell the mod. that I was running at the correct RPM. Otherwise it thinks I'm turning 1/2 the RPM that I am. That was causing my problem. IT also helps to jumper the auto choke to ground and hook up a VOES as the new one will not accept the TPS on the blast. However if you do those things IT works just fine after that. Thanks again everyone and if ever someone has a future question on hooking up a hi-4 to a blast let me know I'll help if I can.

-Marc
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 01:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Done!
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where did you cut the second hole - you only want the last 4 curves programed - 5-8. 5 being close to stock and progressive from there.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on March 21, 2007)
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