| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Thank you Lafayette - the reason is because I think the red bike is a bit edgy, checked the lines, vac. plug on the Cali carb, etc to test a theory - a stock Blast with just a slight boot crack will just show high idle and a lot of hesitation/loss of power - but both of my bikes have a lot of mods and they just shut down, the red will do it on either hi or low jet - therefore I suspect - I'm pretty lean all the way around there - this since converting the red to using the stack and the poorman's Force - lol GT -JBOTDS! EZ  (Message edited by ezblast on April 29, 2007) | ||
| Xgecko |
LaFayette, do you notice any real difference with that needle over the OEM needle? and how much is it? | ||
| Buellistic |
Xgecko: This is a little change which is left over from tuning on my 97S3T CARB. ... There was a time when the JET NEEDLE (N65C) PN 27094-88 was a better OEM retro fit ... When the M2 came out it had a better JET NEEDLE for a OEM retro fit which was the JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 ... It has a better taper like the aftermarket JET NEEDLE's with the little clip ... Which means it richens this mid range area ... Then, also adding one or two #2 Flat(get these at a model airplane hobby store) washers under the needle head may help a little also ... You have to remember all this is just experimenting to get just a little more out of your particular engine ... The only real way to tell if it makes your particular engine run better is to compare it with a stock needle(playing on a DYNO costs a lot of money) and this will be a small change ,,, "BUT" you can do the seat of the PANTS real world tuning as "i" do ... This JET NEEDLE affects from a little before 1/4 throttle to a little after 3/4 throttle ... "AND" if you have a FUELL/AIR Guage that "i" use to tune with in the real world you can see it as a mixture change on the FUELL/AIR Guage ... "SO", tuning is now getting to be a lot of work is it not ??? "BUT", when it all comes together and really works it is worth it ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Cleaning a Pro-series (K&N) air filter. Can I clean my pro-series air filter? I think it may be clogged. I see some similar-looking air filters at the auto parts store. They sell a cleaner and re-oiler for those, but they are not K&N brand. Does anyone know if there is a special cleaner and does it need a special re-oiling? Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
I think it is a K&N - so would clean accordingly. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I also believe its a K & N. I'll post a correction if its not (after I check it). | ||
| Buellboy492 |
I know it's made by K&N, but how do I clean it? They don't sell a special K&N cleaner at my auto parts store, will any filter cleaner and re-oiler be ok? The K&N website does not seem to tell me, since this part is not on their site... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Okay, you got me! I thought the K & N website gave instructions and I wouldnt want to screw up a perfectly good air filter either. Perhaps you could contact K & N, give them the part # (off the filter) and ask what they recommend? Then you can post that info here. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
AutoZone, O'Rielies, Napa, they all should sell oil filter cleaner and oil, its also easy to get online. Just cxleaned my Pro Series yesterday. Soak it down with the cleaner, let it sit 10-20 minutes, rinse the filter frim the inside (important)with clear water (no high pressure!) until you don't feel the cleaner on the filter anymore, then rinse a bit more. shake the excess water out, and set the filter somwehrere to dry (no hot air!) I use my airconditioner closet, lots of air movement, no "heat". I let it dry for several hours. (or overnight) Reoil with correct oil. The filter should only have enough oil to make it an even shade of dark pink, if its red, you've prolly put too much oil on. Let the oil absorb for 20 minutes or so, inspect the filter for dry areas, reoil as needed. Install the filter, clean again in 5000 miles or so. BTW, the K&N filter actualy works better the longer its in use, excessive cleaning may damage the filter media. You do NOT need to clean the filter every oil change.. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
thanks for the info- I will use the filter cleaner/oil re-charge kit from auto zone. | ||
| Xgecko |
rejet, needle and shims...today is my dad's birthday and he was changing the suspension (front and rear) on his Dakar along with a number of other little farkles (gadgets) so I volunteered to help him out. In between working on his bike I rejetted my carb and changed and shimmed the needle. The nice thing about helping my dad is that in order to get there I have a 45minute ride to get there and another 45 minute ride to get home so I had a perfect before and after to compare my carb work. I need to give a thank you to LaFayette for the Idea on the shims. I got two #2 washers at my local True Value and together they measure .0416", not quite .05" but close enough for me. Changing the needle was easy enough I put it all back together and started it up just to make sure I did everything correctly. First impression was that it runs much smoother...but I had to change the shock on my dads BMW still and that was proving to be more difficult and annoying than we expected. I finally helped him finish up (both of us reading the service manual together helped) and after a a quick dinner I had my pleasant ride home to test out the the changes. WOW what a difference, no stuttering on acceleration or popping on decel, just smooth power all the time. Throttle response with a 175 main wasn't quite as good as I have had with a 180 but I expect my mileage to be a lot better and the overall smoothness of power delivery is much better than what I had before. | ||
| Ezblast |
 The air cleaner is actually a HD Twin Cam, Screamin Eagle hi-flo filter (part number 29773-02C). It is a direct bolt on, once you strip the Blast of its stock air box setup. - I wonder how much that weighs compared to the PS intake. Doesn't look like it would get a lot of knee action - pretty tight in - this and the Pro-flo - still looking good, but I'll stick to my stacks;0)  GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Symptom: I can feel a "backfire" and get an audible "gasp" into the airbox before my bike has fully warmed up. This just started yesterday. Diagnosis??: Is my intake boot starting to leak?!? Any suggestions or ideas would be great. | ||
| Swampy |
What jets are you running? Are you able to adjust your primay air screw? Yes possibly it is your carb boot. | ||
| Ezblast |
Could just be loose. | ||
| Sking1973 |
I'm running the factory jets and exhaust system. I'm guessing that it's just loose at this time. I haven't examined it closely, but it doesn't look cracked like my previous bad boot was. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Question, do you think that the stock blast air FILTER can be used backwards? Meaning mounted so that the big end is at the carb, this would make the air flow through it backwards, from the outside to the inside. I was messing around in the garage with a couple of PVC elbows and it got me thinking... | ||
| Ezblast |
Look up Xgecko's intake! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Hi EZ I've seen that, it is very nice, he doesn't use the stock filter though does he? I'm trying to stay low buck for right now and use stuff I already have. | ||
| Xgecko |
no i don't but the total cost of my intake is less than $40 | ||
| Toniportray |
After reading a number of posts, I haven't found anything inquiring as to how one might improve gas mileage for thier Buell. I know it's pretty darn good as it is, but I've heard that slight changes with air/fuel mixtures can vastly improve gas mileage. I'm certainly willing to give up a little power (or a lot) if my gas mileage is significantly improved. If I lean the screw in the bottom of the carb (idle mixture), will that improve gas mileage at all or will it just make my Blast blow up? Also, is the idle mixture screw the only place where the air/fuel mixture can be leaned or richened? Thanks beforehand for your input. Glad to see the forum is still alive and well. | ||
| Ezblast |
If stock - you could jet to 42/165, airscrew 2 1/2 turns out - thats as far as you want to go. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Guess "i" will have to do GAS MILEAGE RUN to see how good a gas mileage my BLAST gets with a #48 low speed, #180 high speed, radiused slide, idle mixture screw out 2 1/2 turns out from seat,Product Improved OEM air box with K&N air filter, and PRODUCT IMPROVED EXHAUST ... Did get 68 MPG one time, "BUT" have been on the THROTTLE too much having "FUN" ... IF THE SLIDE STAYS UP THE GAS MILEAGE GOES AWAY !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur with EZ! Yes, leaning out the mixture will lead to better gas mileage, but too lean can cause severe, almost immediate engine damage. Too rich will wear your engine out more quickly, but its unlikely to cause catastrophic engine failure. There is a point that either too rich or too lean will cause very poor running. Richer is the safer way to go. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
I'm running a V&H SS2R exhaust on my 2005 blast. I also have the jet kit from V&H. I replaced the jet and needle last night. I have read through many postings and have seen the 45/175 combo a lot. The instructions that came with the jet kit recommended a 155 since I am running the V&H with the stock air box. Can anyone explain why the kit recommend a different part then everyone on the site? On a side note I hope to be installing a custom S&S tear drop air intake as soon as the fabrication is complete on the elbow. It should look pretty trick. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't forget to support it! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The V & H probably uses a different numbering system and different parts (hence changing the jet and needle). They dont equal the same as stock thats why I've always advocated using stock parts. Once you get into the different brand jet kits, you now have to follow their numbers and can no longer compare it to others. Follow their guidelines for jetting and tune accordingly. | ||
| Swampy |
Some of the Dyno Jet kits, Drag Specialties use the emulsion tubes with Mikuni jets which are fine threaded with smaller diameter heads. | ||
| Xgecko |
48/180...through the winter my mileage was high 60's low 70's. The same as 45/175 was last summer....but in the warm weather my mileage was well under 60 with 48/180. Currently I'm running 48/175 which feels a bit rich. I'm probably gonna change to a 46 if I can find one or back to a 45 (since I have it) in the next day or so just to squeeze a bit more mileage on my trip | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Thanks for the advice guys. I need to put some miles on my bike and re-check everything again. Yes EZ, I will definitely remember to support my new intake. I'll probably have to fab something for it, I don't think that springs alone will be enough. I'll load up some pics as soon as it's done. |
