| Author | Message | ||
     Buellistic |
MARINEblast: If you are a MARINE as you AKA name implies you can do it ... The only thing the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL does not tell you is the TORQUE SPECS for the BOOT HOSE CLAMPS or to lubricate the threads to get an correct TORQUE ... It over tighten or under tighten it will go bad sooner ... "i" have found that 6 inch pounds is the correct amount on tightness for a longer boot life ... "i" can tell you right now that the HARLEY-Davidson technicians do not know this !!! "SEMPER FI" In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Marineblast |
Anyone know how to fix a carb boot while my part is on order? I heard about using blue silicone. Will this work? | ||
| Xgecko |
better off going to the hardware store and using a heater coupler of a similar size it won't last as long as the stock part but it will do the job. BTW I now have 3 spare boots one in my tank bag and two in the garage | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! Blue silicone comes apart real quick around gasoline. You can sometimes get away with using it around gas in an emergency, if it has completely (completely) dried. BTW havent had a boot go bad yet! | ||
| Kdkgrizz |
Morning vs Afternoon it's a totally different bike. Ok guys first I will go through what I have already checked, and or replaced. New Plug, and Wire. New Carb Boot New PCV and Grommet and all hoses New Pro-Series Intake (With new Jets in carb) Fresh Oil Change (with Filter of course) New Fuel Vent tube Carb cleaned, and cleaned again! Now the problem. I live in Michigan and from April until the first snow I ride pretty much everyday to work 70 miles round trip. I leave at 5:30am when the temp is around 40-60 degrees. I usually head home between 4:30 and 6:30pm when the temp is more in 80 and above range. In the mornings the bike is smooth, and flawless. In the afternoon by the time I am about half way home the bike is noticably shaking. The vibration is not just noticable at idle, but at speed also. I am trying to find something linking the hot outside temp to a problem with the bike. Does anyone have any ideas on this one?? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
RE: Carb boot substitute Better auto parts stores carry a high temp flexible silicone hose in various sizes. I keep meaning to pick some up to test out as an emergency carb / manifold boot (or long term if it works out). I have used this stuff in the past to repair a severed air tube to a catalytic converter and and exhaust pipe just past the exhaust manifold, so I know it will take the heat, I know it can take the weight of the exhaust hanging on it for long term, and I'm pretty sure it is gas resistant. The stuff is expensive, about five bucks a foot (you would get about 4 boots for 5 bucks) | ||
| Swampy |
Kdgrizz, check your plug when you get home see if you are running too rich. Jabeez, Welcome to the board! I am in Michigan also, a group of us just was up in Bellaire, Tunnel of Trees and the Leelenau West Bay area. As far as your problem goes, check your spark plug wire for a good contact, the stock plug boot tends to loosen up early on. Then check your carb boot, and make sure you have some great gas in it. If that doesn't do it make sure your carb is cleaned and adjusted properly and your primary chain adjustment isn't too tight. You will probably find your spark plug boot loose. Let us know what you find. | ||
| Styxnpicks |
does anyone remember which site was selling the fuel hose carb boot, mine has lasted good while but I see its starting to tear on the inside, good news is the engine is running better now, has to set the static timing since it slipped slightly, I still have the misshifts if I ride HARD tho. about 10 minutes of Redline shifts wil do it every up shift will go to neutral and I'll have to jam it up again I need to rejet tho 180s a little rich. but now it starts easier | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Storz Performance. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Interesting thing...I've been trying to diagnose my cold-engine stalls for a couple of weeks now. I've replaced the intake boot and the spark plug, cleaned out the carb, and run cleaner through the fuel system. The problem persists though. It seems that when the bike is cold and first started if I let off the clutch it stalls out. If tried bypassing the clutch "kill switch," thinking maybe it was going bad, but I get the same thing. ALSO, it seems that I don't have much power in the mid-range. This may be my imagination though. I just wanted to see if any of these symptoms sounded familiar to anyone else. | ||
| Ezblast |
try adjusting your primary a tad looser - the sound method - found in the specifics section of the engine section describes in steps how to do it. Primary could be tight. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
I agree whith what Ezblast says. | ||
| Sking1973 |
EZ~ Can you help me out finding that info? I went to that section of the forum, but wasn't able to track it down. Thanks! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/69705.html?1091406412 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you try bypassing the kickstand safety switch? Jump the 2 wires together. (loss of power does indicate a tight primary though). | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/20737.html?1180218447 Link to the primary section - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Thanks for the info. Is it common for the primary chain to tighten between adjustments? Seems like, if anything, it would loosen over time. Also are there any more ideas on my cold stall? This morning I did a little test and it does definitely stall out when I let out on the clutch. If I pull the clutch lever back quickly before it completely stalls out it'll keep running. Clutch dragging? Cable too tight? | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you flip the center diode? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Yep! Tried that and got the same result, so I've ruled out the clutch kill switch...for now.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Primary chain wont tighten between adjustments but it is possible it was adjusted at the loosest point leaving it too tight. Did you rule out the kickstand switch yet? I had the same problems with the used Blast. It had a clogged slow jet, bad plug and a bad kickstand switch (or bypassing the kickstand safety switch fixed it). Sorry if thats already been covered. | ||
| Deltablue |
Why Can't I start a new thread in the thumper forums? Any way here goes, I got a Blast for the wife, and have had a few issues with it, currently the only problem I have is an intermitent problem with the speedo/odo. I replaced the speed sensor, and it works again. However from time to time when you turn the key the gauge doesn't sweep and the odo stays blank for a while. The wife said she took it to work the other day and it stayed dead for the duration of her ride. I think sometimes I can jiggle they key and it comes on. At this point I'm thinking bad contacts in the Ignition switch. Apparently this bike sat outside in the weather for many years. Does anyone see any flaws in my logic, or recommend any other things to look at? | ||
| Ezblast |
Turn the starter switch on first, then the key, wait a few seconds then start, everything should work fine, or the speedo itself could be going. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Well, this little stalling problem gets more and more curious. I thought that I had narrowed it down to the kickstand kill switch. It seemed that when I had it in neutral with the kickstand down it stalled and ran with the stand up. Sooooo, I went and got a new switch at me local dealer and installed it this evening. After all that, the problem still isn't solved. Kickstand up: run...Kickstand down: stall IN NEUTRAL. Any suggestions?! Urgh! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is the problem gone if you bypass the kickstand switch? (bypassing the kickstand switch also bypasses other switch problems) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
DeltaBlue-I see no problems with your logic. As far as starting a new thread-its not necessary. Almost everything has been covered somewhere in the Thumper forum. Starting a new thread only complicates things (I cant ever find anything in the other forums). The Blast is simple, we try to keep the Thumper Forum that way! | ||
| Sking1973 |
Gearheaderiko, How do I bypass the kickstand switch? I know how to bypass the clutch switch, but I've never bypassed the KS switch. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you've got the old switch (and are willing) cut the plug off of it and connect the 2 wires together. You now have a kickstand switch eliminator plug! Plug it back into the bike instead of the switch. If you rather not do that then jump the 2 wires in the switch plug. | ||
| Sking1973 |
Thanks for all the info. I'm going to try that this afternoon. I'm going to have my bike into the shop in a couple of weeks for a 10k check-up. They, of course, will be opening up the primary. Should I have them check the neutral switch in there? My neutral light is still lighting up, but obviously something is telling the bike it's in gear! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Why would they be opening up the primary? Its just drain, fill and adjust. (heck, many people didnt even get an adjustment at their 1000 mile service!) Sounds to me like you've got the skills to do the 10k service. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 04, 2007) | ||
| Sking1973 |
Actually, I don't know what I was thinking. They won't be opening it up to do that service! Derp. I did bypass the kickstand switch and it runs like a champ now. I hate to run it that way for too long. That safety switch has actually saved me a couple of times when I wasn't thinking. So, I suppose that leaves the neutral switch if I'm not mistaken. I found a thread on here about that somewhere. Is it a tough fix? |
