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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Change your intake boot and keep your knee off the stack! Check that intake is properly sealed and not leaking, has a gasket and is torqued to max spec. - try the WD test - at high altitude I would run the 45 primary jetting and 170 with all that - is the bike a 49 state bike or a Cali bike - sounds like a vacuum leak.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Vortec57
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its a 49 bike. I had the lower primary and it dogged out, maybe i should swap to it and the fatter main? Yeah. It's hard to keep my knee off the stack, but I try. I'm a little on the taller side to fit on this machine, but when it runs right its a ton of fun!
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then I think its the boot - leave everything else alone and enjoy!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 01:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur w/EZ, esp about the 45 slow jet!
Besides the likely intake boot problem, it sounds like the choke isnt working if you need the 48 to not get it to bog, but runs okay with the 165 main (sounds like its running cold/just started up). A 48/165 combo doesnt make sense (not that it isnt right), has anything else been done to the carb/engine? Or is it just that cold in grand Junction?!
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hdy guys!

I am at work today and have this problem at home.

When I type in the Badweatherbikers site I get the logo screen, but when I click on it I get a white page talking about copywrite violations!

Whats up with my computer! What setting has been messed with. Is this something my wife has done? I haven't been able to get to this website for two days and I'm starting to get a little buggy!

I got an email from Dave W., about adjusting the shifter pawl and replacing fork seals, and I just figured the site was down for two days, now I realize its my computer at home.

HELP!
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swampy! That's weird! I had something like that happening to me for 2 days. At home, it was fine, but at work, it gave me the PERL script as a text file. Now it's fine, so I'm thinking it is a timing issue.

Back to timing, by the way... Mapping is the process of setting timing advance according to RPM, throttle position, and any other sensor readings you may want to include. Dwell is still part of spark. In the manual it states that dwell is factory set or something like that. I'm still hoping someone has a dwell meter who can give me something...
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Joey!
I will have to check when I get home!
The dwell for your ignition can be anything couldn't it? With a single you could saturate the coil for as long as you want, then the discharge for the firing event, and then saturate it again. The "dwell" would be for a multi cylinder engine, which is the time between ignition firings that the coil saturates with voltage. With a multi cylinder that could be critical, as too little saturation "dwell" time could lead to lower spark voltage at higher RPM which would cause a missfire. On a twin you would have to be concerned about saturation time between firing events on the front and back cylinder.
Let her soak! The discharge event happens and then the coil saturates until the next discharge event happens.
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P3newbie
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey everyone haven't been here in a while, but thought I'd share an update in my Buell life. I traded in my 06 Blast on tuesday and moved up to an 07 XB9R. Huge change. I will miss the super easy riding style and low maintanance, but here in AZ, it's always good to have just a little more power. Traffic here requires it, besides, ever since I've been at track day on a 2 up rides, I gotta go faster. I know the XB board will prove just as helpful as ya'll have been. BTW- I have some left over parts that won't fit the new machine.
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 08:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I could continue to do that. Someone on a "public domain" ignition web site believes I would drastically shorten the life of the coil and the ignition transistor. I'm not worried about the transistor because it can handle a whole lot more than what the Blast coil will take. If the coil isn't going to be stressed, that's fine, but I'm thinking of trying multiple sparks, so knowing the minimum dwell time could be quite useful.

When I was using low-quality connectors for the hall-effect sensor, the PIC wasn't detecting the gap closing, so the transistor was staying on for 15 seconds or longer. The first time I turned off the ignition when that happened, the concept of sparking when the coil is turned off was emphasized by the proximity of the carburetor backfire to my crotch. After that, I stayed away from the carburetor. Usually, it went out the exhaust, which made me think of another idea. Instead of skipping every other spark for a rev limiter, how about sparking about 20 degrees into the exhaust stroke?

It's stayed staturated like this probably a couple dozen times or so without any noticeable damage, yet. I have a new prototype that has everything on one circuit board. The trouble is, I only have one Blast, so I haven't had a lot of opportunity to test it. Well, I have, but I always end up Blasting down the road instead. Who hasn't had that problem?
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, the dwell with the stock Blast would be all the time the Hall effect sensor is covered by the cup, right? If that is the case, you have nothing to worry about as far as coils go.

If I remember from many days gone by, the dwell on a V8 engine (point ignition that is) was 32 degrees.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P3N - you are in for a suprise - lol - they wish it was as well organized as this portion of the board - good luck!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Vortec57
Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2007 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guys, yes, the boot was part of the problem. I re adjusted and snugged it up. Idle went down. Im away for a weekend, when i get back I might mess with my jets some more. No, its not so cold here at the moment, lows are 50s and highs are 80 and up.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 02:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swampy, having the same problem, more or less, now using a different 'door' to access other parts of Badweb.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 02:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P3N: Congrats and condolences! The Blast can do amazing things on a racetrack, its not all about power!
The XB9 is a nice bike. I'd prefer over the 12, because I like twisting the throttle that much further. And its got plenty of power to get you into and out of trouble! Have fun.

Left over parts?

PS Are they still doing the get your money back on the Blast trade in?
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Joey
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The timing cup gap is something like 66 degrees if you look at time instead of distance. Physically, it's a little less than 60 degrees. So, if I just turn on the coil as soon as the gap opens up, (which is what I've been doing so far) and the maximun advance is 45 degrees, then I'm probably looking at 15 or so degrees of dwell. I would be willing to guess that electronic ignitions go by a certain number of microseconds, no matter what the cam position. Someone gave me a formula, but I need to know the resistance and inductance of the coil.

I'm thinking I'll pull the spark plug, start a loop of sparks, and just have the dwell get shorter each time. When I see the spark starting to get weak, I'll get the time of the last good spark and add a little more time.
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P3newbie
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

GHE- I got full payoff for the P3, got invoice for the 9, threw in an 02 rebel (don't ask), only took half the day of negotiation, 14 restroom breaks, lunch, one nad, and a drop of blood to seal the deal. Bought it on the 15th, and as of the 17th, pumped out 240 miles. Can you say sore. Once broken in I look forward to some serious twisties.

EZ- You are right on with the finding stuff on the XB board, got any tips for me. I used the search function w/no success.

I am jonesin' bigtime since I wasn't able to ride today or tomorrow, Sunday will be a different story.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For tech go straight to the KV, use the search function for very specific things, and don't be afraid to ask by starting your own topic - its pretty much a free for all there.

Got a new job and going to celebrate with a nice Alice/San Gregorio loop.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, May 18, 2007 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Congrats EZ, what are you doing now?
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AP for Method Cleaning Products - you can get their stuff at Target - suport EZ and stay clean - lol
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Peppwaves03
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys was wondering if you guys knew where one could best find parts for a 2002 buell blast for cheap? Either new or used, need parts for my transmission and the dealership hasnt been much help


thanks!
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Swampy
Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2007 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Peppwaves03!
How goes the repairs?

When you are inside the engine, always, whenever possible go new parts. Fastest for us, because they are so close is one of our Badweb sponsors, Buellerandy at Appleton HD/Buell
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/257127.html?1179549181
Either you can call him or post there, with a follow up PM with your payment info, and then 3 days later the parts show up on your door step, just like magic! Plus there is the added benefit of no silly looks at the dealership, Andybueller knows what you are talking about and it saves time and money because we get a 10% discount and there is no driving around. The only downside is that there used to be a girl at American HD/Buell that had a crazy two pistols design on her chest.
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Drfeelgood
Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heyoh, I was wondering... what is the best way to get handgrips on the Blast's 7/8th stock width bars...? I am tired of not having a left grip.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Slide them on?!
Hairspray can be used as a lubricant.
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Rockbiter1
Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hairspray (the cheapest you can find, like Aquanet) is an excellent grip glue. When wet, the grip will slide right on, positiojn it properly, then let it sit at least 2 or 3 hours.
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Drfeelgood
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

okay thanks... I forgot to add that the little beast wasnt going on very easily GHR :-)
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Jmhinkle
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys, quick question. Are there any major differences in '03 to '06 bikes? An '06 service manual will cover an '03 just fine right?
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Swampy
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep! Right!
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Carlost
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wheel bearings...how does one know if they need replacing? I took off the rear wheel off my '01 and it was very obvious that this axle never got any TLC...the axle was very corroded and everything looked pretty bad...rusty, greasy and grungy...

The bearings seem to roll OK...I can get them to turn with my finger but are by no means free spinning.

I ordered the bearings...they're cheap enough at $10 a piece but the tool to do this right (Jims 1042) is $230something.

What would you do? Clean everything up and slap it back together again or go the hard route and change the bearings?

Thanks!
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Carlost
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 02:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW...in order to mount the rear tire, I had to remove the drive pulley. The service book sez to throw away the old washers and bolts and to use new ones to re-attach the drive pulley to the wheel. Makes sense or is it severe overkill? : D
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Carlost
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Found a cheaper version of Jims 1042 wheel bearing tool which I'm told is of very decent quality

http://www.georges-garage.com/
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