| Author | Message | ||
     Drfeelgood |
all the WB/Jardine, Force, and D&D need to be dialed out to 3 plus to get rid of all decel. popping. Yeah, I freaking hate when I let off and it pops like a fool. Anybody know the best way to get rid of that? EZ's paragraph wasn't understood by my mechanically inept brain. | ||
| Joey |
I believe you have to pull the little metal plug that's closest to the enging on the bottom of the carburetor. You will have to drill a hole in it with a 1/16" bit. Be careful--the plug isn't that thick, and if you keep drilling, you'll be drilling into the screw. Once you get the hole drilled, you can stick something into the hole and pop it out. Tighten the screw until it stops, then unscrew it about 2 1/4 turns or maybe it was 2 1/2 turns. I can't remember exactly. If 2 1/4 turns fixes it, then you're good. More turns means richer idle. See the picture in the carburetor section. Note the Idle Mixture Screw at the bottom of the picture. (Message edited by joey on May 14, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
"Tighten the screw until it stops" Better said....."Lightly bottem the screw" or "lightly tighten the screw until it stops" Also check for an exhaust leak | ||
| Ezblast |
lightly bottom screw, then 3 turns out. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Joey |
LOL! That reminds me of Air Force tech school. We all know how to use a torque wrench, right? Just tighten it until it breaks. So, one student tightened the bolt until it (the bolt) broke. Yeah, bottom it out, then go out the desired number of turns. | ||
| Drfeelgood |
That seems to have the ole' Jardine running better. thanks | ||
| Buellistic |
Joey: When the AIR FORCE torque wrench went "CLICK"(if you had it set to proper torque) you were supposed to stop(that is if you were not "DEAF" as in being around too many J-79's running at full "AB") ... Maybe you did not get it "CALIBRATED" every 6 months like you were suppose too ??? In BLASTing LaFayette EX USAF 46250 (Message edited by buellistic on May 14, 2007) | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I have a WB exhaust and a R/T intake at the moment and I have to agree that a 48 is perfect along with a needle change. My mileage blew with a 180 main so I stepped back to a 175 again for the warm months. Still at 2 1/2 turns out on the air mix. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
46250 eh? I'm a weapons loader myself! Of course, now we are called 2W1x1's... What aircraft have you loaded? | ||
| Buellistic |
Rockbiter1: B-58's at BUNKER HILL(AKA Bunkerstump the Airplane Dump) ... What do you load on ??? In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
I've loaded F-16's, worked back-shop on F-15E's, and loading the B-52 at Barklatraz now... B-58's eh? When ya wanna Hustle.... | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Well, I finally finished doing my undertail. I shamelessly stoke some ideas from (Naustin?, maybe...looked at too many pics to remember...) I'll get a pic or three up later this week, but basicly, it goes like this: Removed the black tail scoop. Relocated the tail light to hang off the subframe with some $3 Wal-mart L-brackets (Stanley brand, 2", comes in a pack of 4, used 2) Hanging from the tail light attach bolts, I hung two "Mending Brackets" (2", $2, pack of 4) to which I bolted my license plate with two anti-tamper bolts. Took some finagling and bending to get everything to fit the way I wanted, but it works, and most everything is hidden. The rear turn signals I went cheap: I bolted the original lights to the rear-most bungee loops, so they stick out to the sides and an angle. Not the prettiest, but it works, and they don't stick out nearly as far now. To cover everything, I went Lo-Tek. I cut a piece of black foam-board (Elmers Foam Board, $4 for 20"x30" sheet, 1/4" thickness, paper card stock on both sides) to match the underside of the tail plastic. The front end is held by the two lips in the bottom of the subframe, back end is held by the tail light bolts. I sprayed it liberally with clear spraypaint top and bottom to give it a hint of waterproofing (but for $4, I can make 2 or 3 tail pieces...), and will prolly use some doublesided tape to make it more secure sometime this week. At some point, I will refine my design, and have an under tail cut fron sheetmetal, wrap the edges in plastic edging, and attach with screws to the stock tail bolt locations, but right now, for a grand total of $10 I have a slick home-grown undertail  | ||
| Buellistic |
Rockbiter1: The B-52 was before and during my time, "BUT" it is still flying ... Are C-47's still flying for the USAF ??? In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on May 14, 2007) | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Um...no... We use the C-17 now, along with the C-5 and C-130 for our tactical and strategic cargo needs. The C-17 is a cool aircraft...but not as cool as a B-52 :P | ||
| Ezblast |
Rockbiter - pics? - we need pics! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
All this talk about planes makes me miss my C-9's. I was a hydraulic mechanic on those for four years at Scott. | ||
| Joey |
2A573C Those C-17s look so cute next to our C-5s at Dover. We'll be getting our own C-17s next month or so. Meanwhile the C-5s are being upgraded with new avionics and new engines! Can you say "Heavy at 35,000 feet?" Some day in the distant future, at the C-17 retirement ceremony, the C-5s will probably do a fly-by... Oh--isn't this a motorcycle forum? | ||
| Drfeelgood |
www.kalecoauto.com | ||
| Ezblast |
hu? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ Check out the website,LOL! Dont forget to change out the winter air in your tires, summers coming! | ||
| Rotzaruck |
With this global warming thing going on, it's going to be hard to keep the right air. everybody will have to order extra sets. I think EZ needs to look into one of their brake lines,though, especially for the rear | ||
| Ezblast |
It would never get usage, and its almost always winter here anyway - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
I just odered a muffler bearing. Hopefully that will help with the excessive noise I've had since I got this custom exhaust. | ||
| Joey |
Help! I need a favor from someone who has a meter that will read dwell. How long is dwell on the Blast? I have a bad feeling that if I don't get it right, my coil won't last much longer. I was thinking of just shortening it until the engine starts to misfire, but that's not very scientific. I could do the math, but I don't know the inductance of the coil. | ||
| Buellistic |
Joey: When did you put "POINTS" in your BLAST ... Have not heard the TERM in many,many years ... Why don't you just set the spark plug gap at 0.030 inch ??? In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Joey |
You have not heard the term because electronic ignitions have the dwell already set by the manufacturer. Since I'm the manufacturer of my ignition project, I have to know what the dwell time is so I can program it. Make sense now?  Oh, and where does the spark plug gap come into all this?  (Message edited by joey on May 16, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
Joey: Thought that is refered to as MAPING ??? 0.030 inch works better with stoc ignition ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"0.030 inch works better with stock ignition ..." If your Blast runs better backing the gap down from the recommended (.038-.043) to .030, I'd start looking for a problem somewhere. At least try a better spark plug. Advancing the timing,richening the carb and closing down the plug gap, just to get your bike to run, indicates a problem. | ||
| Buellistic |
That is just how "i' got my BLAST to run better, ie: Timing mark just coming into the rear of the timing plug hole, Carburetor 2 1/2 turn out on idle mixture screw-#48 low speed jet-#180 high speed jet, and 0.030 in. on the spark plug gap !!! | ||
| Vortec57 |
Guys, quick question on my Blast. It's got the American Sport Bike torque stack intake, and V&H exhaust. Jetting is 48 and 165 (high altitude) latley it seems to never want to come down off high idle, REAL high idle. when it does it lugs down so low it seems like its about to die. I'm going to check my intake boot once again, but aside from that any ideas on what's making it do this? |
