| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Shifter shaft Prawl Adjustment - I did the adjustment as it said to in the book, shift to 3rd so detent plate is as the picture in the book to do the adjustment, adjusted per spec - done. Now I can't get it back into neutral - why? - should I try rolling it a bit to turn the gears? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  (Message edited by ezblast on March 04, 2007) | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: On a BLAST if adjustments are correct, finding neutral should not be a problem ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, How did you come out? I find that a little pressure on the shift shaft to keep it in the position as if the cover was in place helps with the adjustment. Also you have to remember the transmission on the Blast uses shift collars with dogs, not the fine teeth like a car transmission, so spinning the transmission imput shaft will help. | ||
| Ezblast |
So I should turn the motor a bit/roll her to engage/relieve tranny to shift? GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 04, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Only if you're doing it by hand. Spinning the rear wheel will turn the gears. It shouldnt take much, sometimes just a little 'bounce' will do. | ||
| Swampy |
Yes you could just move the rear wheel, I thought you still had the primary off. | ||
| Ezblast |
I Found Neutral, no light but neutral - it will do, opened the gasket, non-metal, but not paper either - thought I had it lined up, but the bottom buggered up, now I have to get a new gasket again - argh! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Make sure everything else in the primary area that you can see is doing what it is supposed to be doing.......Recheck the adjustment, maybe it moved when you tigtened it? I'd be glad to come out there and take a look at it for you...... | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - thanks Swampy - I'm pretty sure every things ok - will be getting a new gasket today, and told Chicago HD/Buell about the paper gasket screw up, they are sending another gratis - so I'll be ok in case of any reopening - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Slowhand96 |
EZ I have my primary apart right now (well cover off). Still hunting for that second clunk as I let the clutch out in first. Anyway, I haven't removed the chain yet but I was looking around inside. First observation, my drain plug had lots of shavings on it, The magnet was covered to about the same diameter as the plug. At 3000 miles is this normal? With my cover off, the shifter shaft assembly wiggles and jiggles like a loose tooth on a five year old, is this normal? Why did you have to adjust yours? | ||
| Swampy |
The shifter shaft is supported on both ends, one of the supports being the primary cover, so when it is apart it will wiggle. The adjustment is necessary when the shifter gets forced like in an accident, or when it is jammed by someone impatient like the Little Kid, or if you start taking things apart, or when "things" have had a chance to wear. The clunk, well, um, I don't know, I have noticed it my self on both bikes, when everything is right, I personally believe it is the because the shift drum holds the shift forks in a sprung condition until the shift dogs on the sliders get completly lined up and finally go in all the way into the gear. If you notice how the shift pawl works you can see this happen when you roll the rear tire after you shift it into gear, you can see the shifter kind of "pop" when it goes all the way into gear. The dogs on the shift sliders are like two pins that slip into recesses cut into the face of the gear. When the pin on the dog doesn't line up with the recess then you get that pop feeling as the gear spins and the dog line up with the recess. While the primary is off, don't forget to clean the stator wires where they pass under the front sprocket under the protector plate, if you can remove the plate, champher the edges and then glue the wires in place under the protector plate with some silicone. Then make sure you check the shift drum retaining bolt. Then get real anal about cleaning, red locktiting, and torquing the front sprocket crankshaft nut to torque. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Thanks Swampy! YOU ROCK!! I've printed out your suggestions and I'll refer to them as I poke and prod the primary's innards. I have to make something to lock the sprockets so I can loosen the nut. Is it necessary to take the clutch pack apart? I don't have one of those tools and it looks tough to make. (C clamp and big socket maybe?) I'm sure this bike was down HARD a few times in it's previous life, the "tweeked" shifter end plus serious scratches in the plastic would bare that out. It was a "training bike" for www.comprehensivesafety.org (shameless plug for a good outfit) How about all the shavings on the drain plug magnet? It looked like Don King's hair... LOL.. | ||
| Swampy |
No you do not have to take the clutch apart. When you remove the adjusting stem and bearing with the snap ring you will be able to access the Clutch hub nut. The locking tool is a must have item. The hair on the drain plug....clean it off its probably from breaking the thing in. Also fo an experiment in clutch hub experience, and to demonstrate how flimsy the clutch hub bearing is, rock the clutch hub by hand you will be amazed how much deflection you get.....that is why you must be very careful not to overtighten the primary chain when you put it together. Run it as loose as possible, without having backlash. Finger tight if you will, remember how much slack you took out of it the first time you adjusted the chain after you removed the spacer on the adjusting bolt? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Swampy Nice Sporty BTW! Who did the paint? I didn't get to "POP" her spacer cherry so I don't know. I do have to take the clutch pack off though don't I? | ||
| Swampy |
Thanks, thats the way I found her, I think its a House of Kolors paint. If you are removing the primary chain, the front hub and clutch hub have to come off together, there is not usually the slack in the chain to get them off separately. remember, its a left handed nut on the clutch hub! (Message edited by swampy on March 12, 2007) | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I'm really confused now???? I have the 2006 service manual open to pg 6-38 / 6-39. On page 6-38 para 5 they talk about the drill bit and tightening the lock nuts and that all seems fine but then when the procedure continues on page 6-39 para 6 it refers back to figure 6-46 and installing a new quad ring on fifth gear? Then para 7 and 8 talk about the main drive gear seal and the position retention collar??? When was I supposed to have taken all that apart? | ||
| Swampy |
The drill bit is to measure the clearance between the pawl and the detent plate. You just have to follow paragraph 5. The rest is for if you had the transmission out. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Thanks Swampy! That was fast!!! I was contemplating ignoring everything after para 5 anyway but I would have been worried that I would have to go back in or something would explode or something! LOL House of colors, I'm old enough to remember Jon Kosmoski as just a really talented local guy. | ||
| Swampy |
I've been perched here all day on my chair waiting for someone to post in the Thumper Forum. Ahh the life of a government slave! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
LOL! Where do I sign up for a job like that? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Has anyone here fabricated one of those tools to lock the sprockets so that the sprocket nuts can be removed? Harley p/n HD-38362 Dimensions? material? Anyone successfully substituted something to lock the sprockets? | ||
| Joey |
That sucks! Dover AFB has blocked BadWeB! I don't know why! | ||
| Swampy |
The tool dimensions are in the archives somewhere. I know I posted them within the last 6 months. I can go out an measure it up again if you want. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I have been scouring the archives before I posted this and ever since, I did a search, (tool primary, chain primary, etc) no real luck. I do remember someone ... probably you.. posting a picture of something they made fairly recently. I don't know why I can't find it.???? I did read the suggestion about a "rag" I might try that. I just went out and tried a 4 inch hunk-o- conduit but that folded right up. Swampy it would be great if you could measure that, but no hurry... next time you are out there. I sorta figure it will need to be a hunk of 3/16 x 1 1/2 or two........ by four? four and a quarter long? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
OK, I'm not at the point of putting it back together yet, still need to rig some sort of a sprocket lock. BUT.. I have spent the night scouring the archives and I found something that is bugging me. To get a torque wrench onto the primary chain adjuster, you have to put a crows foot on the torque wrench. (they even show this in the manual) This crows foot will act as an extension past the fulcrum and actually deduct an inch or so of "working" length from the torque wrench. Correct? That would make any reading you got from the wrench incorrect.... correct? I know this isn't a critical torque but once I get my brain wrapped around something it's hard to let go.... LOL.. Probably no big deal as I plan to try the "by ear" method anyway. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I do both - red bike - adjusted with 8 turns out and the black bike by ear and tach - lol - the good thing about fully going into the primary is that if you do all the adjustments correctly, your bike will shift much better as a matter of course - did everything according to the book with a few suggestions added from here - one good - is look at your stator wires - that plate has been known to cut the wires, I rounded all the edges to one constant curve all the way around the edges both sides, and made sure all the pins where the same size - 0.335" and checking the detent plate for excessive wear, a new clip, do the shifter pawl adjustment just as it says in the book, rock the bike to assist in shifting - if needed, replace the shifters shaft seal, and new primary and primary inspection cover gaskets, clean all threads of locktite by running a clean bolt slowly through them - follow all torque values to spec and sequence, and on the primary cover recheck all the bolts torque after 3 good heat cycles. By the time your done with all the adjustments by book specs, your bike will never have shifted better than now - mi black bike has never shifted better or smoother, just clicks - I am very happy. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 13, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
4 1/4 long......1/4 flat stock, 1 inch or better wide. The stuff I have is really hard. Angle the ends slightly opposite from each other like a chevron. EZ, the pins you speak of are the shift drum pins held in by the detent plate? They do seem loose in the shift drum bore. Where did you get the pins from? | ||
| Ezblast |
I just checked length - second was out to 0.339 - tapped it back to 0.334 - leached a drop of loctite, never shifted better now - stock pins - stuff I read from the regular KV - if I do a complete tear down a Baker shift kit definately goes in and if I where rich a Baker 6 speed - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
Since an inch pound torque wrench is measuring pounds at one inch, the crow's foot adds another inch. Therefore, 10 pounds at one inch would be 5 pounds at 2 inches. Set your torque wrench at half of your torque, and you'll be right on. If it's foot pounds, then you're going from 1 foot to 1 and 1/12 foot, which means you'll set your torque to 12/13 of the original torque. |
