| Author | Message | ||
     Humboldtblast |
Can anyone give me some tips on the primary drive? What are the things i should know about it? How do you tell if it needs adjusting? | ||
| Ezblast |
Go Here! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/20699.html?1129298247 GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Humboldtblast |
you da man EZ!!!!!!!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Realistically once you get the break in miles done and the first couple adjustments, unless your really beating the bike, it shouldn't need much adjusting, if at all, after that | ||
| Ezblast |
Brian N. said that to really get the motor reving quick - one of the best things I could do would be to lighten the crank - he said that if it was lightened to the RR standards that the bike would be much more responsive, and when I asked if this would affect torque or street drivability - he said no. So should we be turning our cranks into swisscheese? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Yes! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, realistically, it would affect torque and drivability, but perhaps not critical to an experienced rider. It would also depend on how much it is lightened. It would probably loose some of its new rider appeal and ease of riding though. While I believe I'm stating the obvious, lightening the flywheel would be a give and take scenario, not just a magic bullet to a faster bike. It also depends if you dont care about, or need, what your losing! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Whatever else you can lighten after the crankshaft is almost always a win situation (primary drive, clutch, rear wheel, chain). | ||
| Ezblast |
Brian said there would be no torque loss, its just delivered further up the rpm line, and when I asked about idling -he said it would still be streetable even if lightened to XBRR weight - so I'd say you'd have to pare off a lot/too much of weight to bring it to dirt track lite that your talking about - he said he swiss cheesed Terry's and its still streetable - idles, etc. and no loss of torque - I dunno - we could use an engineer here to clarify. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Brian said there would be no torque loss, its just delivered further up the rpm line" Exactly! It will change the way it rides.Therefore not quite as 'newbie' friendly. Anytime you take weight off the flywheel, it changes the engine 'torque'. It has to make a difference,thats fact. Most street engines come with a heavy flywheel and changing to a lighter flywheel (IE aluminum) makes it a little less drivable. But its set up for the average population. If you never sit in stop and go traffic or rarely hit a light or stop sign, a light flywheel isnt any big deal. But if thats all you ever do, it becomes tiresome. It starts to drive more like an old 2 stroke with no low end. You gotta rev it up to keep it going. I'm not saying it wont be streetable, but it will change how its ridden.Not a big deal if you've got 12,000 rpm to deal with, but with a Blast streetable max at about 8,000rpm you start to narrow the rpm band at which its comfortable to ride. The Blast will grunt along at low rpms stock, but the more weight you shave, the higher that rpm level will be. For those reading that may not understand the flywheel heavy/light difference (I'm sure EZ does) try this. Take a bicycle and ride it. Then using a hand bicycle pump filled with water, fill up the rear tire with water only (no air) then ride it. With just air its easy to accelerate and easy to stop. With just water (heavy) its hard to accelerate and hard to stop. Heavy=slow to rev & hard to stop. A heavy flywheel can 'store' more energy. Light=fast to rev & easier to stop. A light flywheel stores very little energy. Thats the simplest example I've found that works to explain it and you can take the similarities between the flywheel and bicycle wheel even further but I've rambled long enough! | ||
| Cobalt60 |
The lightened crank sounds interesting. Should make the blast rev faster and maybe higher without damage. Wonder what it would do to the vibration levels on the thumper. EZ does he have any numbers for the blast after lightening? 0 to 60 times, dyno etc. | ||
| Ezblast |
See Terry's LSR - top speed so far - 135mph - geared different from stock though. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
What is the easiest way to remove the peg arm so I can remove the primary cover from the Blast? | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/164001.html | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Thanks Ezblast... this site has been the most helpfull place I've found. | ||
| Swampy |
Bonesdl1, Why are you taking the cover off? Just curious... | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
There is a knocking or tapping sound in the primary. I was told it was either a loose primary chain or some kind of spring that is loose. It doesn't make the noise all the time, but I was told at the local HD dealership that it should be looked at. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You should look at it. Check for a loose crank nut and a stator magnet cup rattling around. There is probably an updated torque rating for it when you reassemble (significantly higher then what is in the shop manual). Blake has the service bullitin linked around here somewhere... Does the Blast use the normal chain tensionser? If so. that could be broken as well. | ||
| Jprovo |
Reep, the Blast has a unique chain tensioner, and according to the service bulletin the Blast does not need the higher torque spec (though I would probably tighten to it). But I agree with you, check it out, it's a fairly simple job to get in there and look around. | ||
| Swampy |
Definately, check for a loose crank nut. Especially if you can't adjust the noise out with the chain adjustment. | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/20737.html?1155613013 | ||
| Ezblast |
Would the Baker Drum Kit fit a Blast tranny? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Baker is in my neck of the woods, the Big Kid did alot of talking with the Baker people a couple of years ago. They are very Buell friendly, I'd give them a call. | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: You will find that the BAKER 6 SPEED Transmission will fit ... The only differance between the BLAST Transmission cavity and the SPORTSTER Transmission cavity is the early ones had a "TRAP DOOR" which was discontinued making it like the BLAST/XB cases ... And like Swampy says BARKER will give you the final word !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
No was their answer, guess I'll have to make my own 'Baker' - lol http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/205916.html GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: If you compare the Transmission Parts you will find they are the same !!! OF COURSE YOU HAVE TO USE A "TUBE FRAME BUELL" and a 2000 BLAST "PARTS BOOKS" ... They do not have the "BUELLschitte" part numbers in either ... Retro fitting between platforms is begining to be come a thing of the past unless you work H-D PARTS ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
Baker says they are different, someone with both say a S3T and a Blast could pull one out of each and check - however, I think that would be a bit much though to ask - so I'd rather take their word, but if you know someone who has used the earlier drum in the later bike or vice a versa - let me know! Till then though plan B seems more likely to happen - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
What would you replace with the drum? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Good News! Good news though for you XB/Blast folks - the baker drum will work per Terry P. who had it in his LSR Blast. Of course you have to split the case to get at it - sigh. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: "TOLD YOU IT WOULD WORK !!!" XB has a different shifter drum, forks ... In BLASTing LaFayette |
