| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
YOur butterfly should open and close with the throttle, With the engine off, hold the slide up, you should see the butterfly open and close when you twist your throttle. If it isn't moving, you need to find out why. Cables, Broken throttle shaft, or the butterfly is missing. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks - I'll check it out tonight and let you know! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
Thank you for your advice - it was the ferule to the throttle cable - turned sidewaise in its housing at the carb holding itself to the wire body holder at the hole - it jacked itself in there - so yes the wire body would turn the rest of the way but not come back to rest - the ferule holding it at an advanced acceleration point - I couldn't see it last night - tired and dark, however, as soon as I took the tank cover off today I noticed what was up and took measures so the problem will not repeat itself. Again - Thank you! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 88m |
ok its been a while but i final got the bike done. i got the cylinder honed, stage two head and b70 cams. i just ran the bike and it seemed fine except bad idle. i dont have a intake or exhaust. should i just go get new jet now or try the idle screw. if i get jets, what should i go with? i have read about the jets for the simple stuff but what about with my setup? | ||
| Ezblast |
Regular or hi-comp piston? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 88m |
regular piston. i drilled the cap and upped the idle screw 1/2 turn. between that and me playing with the throttle screw, it is running now but it hangs after you let off the throttle alittle. still havent had it on the road yet. | ||
| 88m |
i got the idle fine. if i slow climb in to the rpms it seems to be running fine, but if you give it some throttle it just sits there and makes noise. (Message edited by 88m on August 30, 2006) (Message edited by 88m on August 30, 2006) | ||
| 88m |
it seems to stutter in the mid range with any amount of throttle. i turned the idle screw to 2 1/2 instead of 2 3/4 and still no change. i also tried messin with the timing, still no change. ? | ||
| Ezblast |
Go to light bottom and turn 2 1/2 turns out, with a good exhaust and intake take screw to 2 3/4 - jet to 45/175 to 180 to start - this assumes a 9.2 comp stock piston. A 10.5 comp piston would constitute 45/165 to 160 to start. Use the lower jet for stock. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
So you havent actually ridden the bike, just ran the engine? Did you pull the carb apart at all? Is the carb vacuum port plugged? Spark plug gap? Tank vent crimped/clogged? Timing cup loose? Old gas? Clogged jet? Are you looking for crisp, immediate, throttle response? You probably wont get it without a load (riding) and without further tuning. It may also be running very rich in the midrange, hence the stutter. The idle mixture screw wont change anything but the idle mixture and slightly above. EZ is right on the money for jetting. I've found the Blast to be very forgiving as far as the carb or timing or anything other engine mis-tune is concerned. Usually something has to be really wrong for it not to run well! | ||
| 88m |
i have rode the bike now. it runs good, but stutters in the midrange. Very noticeable. other then the stutter, low end and high end pull hard. i didnt take the carb apart. i gapped the plugs. has new gas. tank vent is fine. timing it tight. i didnt change the jets in the cab, so it shouldnt be rich in the midrange. i have more time after work and will look at it. i was tired yesterday from working on the bike all day. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It might have been rich in the midrange before, you just didnt notice it. Mines always been rich in the midrange. It might always had the stutter in midrange too. I've noticed that the Blast is more forgiving to problems in stock form. Once you start to modify it, it becomes more sensitive to running problems. For example the carb on the raceBlast was having some problems, so I swapped it out to a stock Blast and although I know where to look for the problem (in running), its almost non existent on the stock Blast. Since you've got a different engine now (figuratively), the jetting will probably need to be changed. You're still using the stock exhaust? Keep us posted! | ||
| 88m |
ok makes sense i am just going to run it and play with the carb. i am running the stock exhaust for now and stock air filter. i will change them out latter so i will have to play with the carb again anyways. | ||
| Lutes888 |
well ive had my 04 blast for the summer and i just went to start it and it wont start, it turns over but nothing. it sounds like theres an air leak coming from ither the head or the exhaust. Any ideas or help would be much appreacated. and how do i get the gas tank off to get to the head? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
When was the last time you ran it? Gas tank removal (short form): Turn off petcock and remove fuel line at petcock and plug it. Remove seat-remove bolt under seat holding tank cover on-remove tank vent line-remove dipstick and O ring-pull off tank cover-replace dipstick. Remove 2 bolts holding tank cover bracket on-carefully pry 2 big rubber stoppers off at front of gas tank (wont be easy-dont damage frame,wires or cables)-pull up on rear of tank and slide backwards so front of tank clears rubber stopper frame pins. You can leave the gas line attached if you just want to set the tank to the side. For easy removal next time, grease the big rubber stopper frame pins before putting the rubbers back on. | ||
| Jackelfox |
Another question here... The Blast takes a good 7-10 minutes to start every morning, its about 50+ degree currently but i worry as its only getting colder. Is this normal? it gets clicked over at least 20 times before showing signs of life. I understand it has an auto choke, which all in all sounds like a bad idea. ANyhow is this normal or can i do somthing to help the situation. | ||
| Mabueller |
My 2002 starts first/second/third turn over. Does the carb need cleaning? It sounds like a fuel/combustion issue. Any of the true mechanical guys have a thought? | ||
| Swampy |
Make sure the primary chain adjustment is correct. A too tight primary adjustment makes the engine have to work harder just to stay running. I like to adjust mine a little loose. You need to make sure the carb has the 45 primary jet in it, and the idle adjustment screw turned out about 2 1/2~3 turns. | ||
| Ezblast |
Intake hose loose or leaking - lol - das boot! That said - other things to consider - Swampy covered, also - check plug and plug wire for looseness, and battery - connection and life - my battery is 6 yrs and finally going - getting a new one monday - lol - I'll be happy if the replacement lasts half as long. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jackelfox |
the battery seems to be doing its job fine, and frankly impresses me that it can take a beatin' like the wife is giving it trying to get it over. Its starts each time except for this morning, which was dramatically colder. I need a manual for this thing. My other bike is a honda, and like the rep the thing never even gives me a sidways glance. I love buell, but not being my bike i cant say yet that i love working on it. | ||
| Mabueller |
"You need to make sure the carb has the 45 primary jet in it, and the idle adjustment screw turned out about 2 1/2~3 turns." How can you tell what is in it for a jet? I bought my bike with a V&H exhaust and it doesn't look like the adjustment screw was drilled out so I have been wondering if it was ever re-jetted for the V&H. | ||
| Ezblast |
Probably not! | ||
| Mabueller |
Is there a "kit" I should buy or can you just buy the two different jets? I also read about "shimming" the jet but not in enough detail for me to understand why and how. Can anyone direct me to a preferred website that explains it in detail? | ||
| Ezblast |
See the carb section - the top of the page has links with pics and you can buy the jets seperately - part #'s are there as well. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
If you go to any Harley shop, not necessarily a dealer, you can buy carb jets for your CV carb, it is the same as a Sportster or any other model that uses the CV carb. The jets cost $4.50 or so. On the other hand, The Dyno Jet carb kit costs somewhere around $90, and consists of a couple of Mikuni main jets, a different emulisifier tube that only takes the Mikuni main jets, a new needle, and a new slide spring. After installing the correct main and primary jet, and adjusting the idle air mixture screw, you will find that it made a significant difference over stock, as far as starting, idling and midrange goes. | ||
| Swampy |
Oh yeah, JUST DO IT! Look at this CV tuning site, with the step by step guide: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm I just wouldn't go opening up the vacuum bleed hole just yet to .125. Stock it is like .090 I opened one of the Blasts to .100 and I just don't remember which one it was, I will check and let everyone know because one has a noticable difference in throttle response. | ||
| Mabueller |
Thanks folks. I appreciate the assistance. I am sure I will be asking for additional help in Jan when the house addition is done and I have a new work space. | ||
| Swampy |
I just checked both Blasts, Both vacuum bleed holes are now opened up to .100 The biggest difference was the needle shims. .050 is what is now in both of them and the throttle response is smooth on both of them. I was experiencing a little flat spot on the one with .020 shim in it. When I increased it to .050 it went away. The conclusion for me is "They like to run rich" | ||
| 88m |
Ok its been a while but my bike still runs like crap. i took it to the harley dealer and they had it for 3 week. I paid 350 for them to tell me they couldnt fix it. they jetted the carb, replaced the tps, compression checked the engine, and put a new plug in. they said they were on the phone for hours talking to the tech guys trying to figure it out. its drivable if you stay in the high rpms but it cant even maintain speed in the mid range. i am at a loss here. any ideas would help. could i have installed the cam wrong? should i pull them and see if it helps? | ||
| Swampy |
You may have installed the cams wrong. Not looking at the upper posts I didn't realize you had installed cams. Did you let the dealer know that the problem occured after you installed the cams? Is it still just a problem in your mid range? If so try shimming the needle .050 or so. Read two posts up. Try shimming the needle first, then recheck what Gearheaderiko said, then the cam timing. Do the easiest first. |
