| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
Also make sure you are using a synthetic oil, it lubricates much better on cold start ups. I would recommend a 15W-50 or a 20W-50. Also a 20W-50 in the primary case will help also. Remember to adjust your primary loose that will cut down on excessive drag when starting. If you have not rejetted your carburetor, now would be a great time to do so. The Blast likes a rich mixture especially on a cold startup. The automatic enrichener may not be enough for some cold mornings that you experience. Make sure you have a great spark plug properly gapped installed in the Blast also, and watch out for the ice.....its hard!~ | ||
| Joey |
My 2001 Blast, with 22K last winter always started without a problem. It took a bit longer, perhaps 6-8 engine turns before it fired, and then it took 2 more attempts before it stayed running. The only time the battery ever died was when I somehow managed to turn it past the off position and remove the key. Oh--personal experience--Ice is hard! Don't try to ride on the ice in the winter, even if it's only a block to the dry road. Anyway, I was recently in an accident. For insurance purposes, I'm wondering what's the best way to get fair market value for my Blast that has 27K on it. It's well-maintained, complete, and only has damage from the accident. HD of Seaford says it's not worth the $757 it'll cost to fix it. I need a better source. Oh--it has an after-market exhaust and windshield. All else is stock. (Message edited by Joey on October 30, 2006) | ||
| Drfeelgood |
Great, thanks guys! I will keep the aforementinoed in mind. I have rejetted to the 175/45 already cause of the aftermarket exhaust and airbox/intake I have, and luckly my dad and I share a shed to store our two bikes. Its oil heated so thats no prob. Though he has an electra glide that just sits on our carport in all the weather, it starts just fine in 30 degree weather. haha crazy dad. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Joey-NADA & Kelly blue book. Usually if the repair is half the value of the bike or more, they total it. Also add in the price of all accessories. You can also copy as many classified adds, preferably from your area, but as many as possible showing the resale value of the bike. If the insurance company totals it, you can buy it from them. They dont have the right to just total it and take it away. 2001 is a little on the old side so the value may only be in the $1400 range. Are you going to do the repairs yourself? My crash estimate was over $5000 and that would apply to any year Blast since all the parts are the same. It however only cost me about $100 to make it roadworthy again. | ||
| Joey |
NADA said $1820 average retail value. Kelly said $2640. Total damage was only $757. I have to replace one turn signal light to make it pass inspection. If you read my entry in the dealer's section, you can guess that I'll be doing it myself. I know the parts people there have always been rectums, but now I know at least 2 service people are as well. I already talked to the insurance people. If it's totalled, they will pay me the amount up to the totaling value. I can show them NADA and Kelly amounts, though, as insurance companies usually go by one or the other for a basis. It's all stuff I can do myself. The bracket where my windshield mounts is bent up pretty good, so I might just go without, since I don't have to ride in the winter. Is the fly screen even necessary? I'll be getting some bar-end mirrors. Anybody have a black gas tank cover that's still shiny and new? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Flyscreen isnt necessary and you may actually like the ride without it-I do. I do have a Black tank cover http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/189423.html?1156377967 still shiny but does have minor scratching around the B in Blast as shown in the picture. You say the insurance co will pay you the amount up to the totaling value. Then they take the bike, right? $1800-$900(buy back price)=$900, Sounds like it would be cheaper for them to pay you the $757? Are you trying to keep the bike or sell it the easy way (if the ins co will pay you $2600 for it)? | ||
| Joey |
Since it's not owned by the bank, they will pay damages up to the value of the bike. Once I talk to the insurance agent and let her know the actual value of my bike, instead of the Seaford HD's bullsh** guess, I think all will be fine. If I can't get a perfect tank cover, I'll just stick with what I have.  I'm looking at getting the seat adjusted or something, and taking the rest of the money to give my engine a bit more thump. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It may be different with your Ins co. or your state and it doesnt matter whether the bank owns it or not (thought if the bank did, they may have a say in it). Generally speaking the ins co will pay to fix the bike if the estimate is less than half the value of the bike. If the estimate is more than half the value of the bike, they total it and give you the value of the bike and then they get to keep the bike (they just bought the bike from you!) and you're supposed to take that cash and buy a different bike. If they total the bike and you want to keep it, you'll need to bike the bike back from them at a salvage price (or you get the difference between salvage value and total value). Not to be argumentative, but I've been through this. I also know that many people dont realize that they have the choice to keep the totaled vehicle. Also, if they total the vehicle, you may have to get a salvage title for it. I also wouldnt bother getting another tank cover unless it was perfect or I was changing colours. | ||
| Joey |
Ok. That makes sense. Fortunately, I can prove that the value is more than twice the repair costs. I just have to talk to them. I wish this guy had USAA! This has been going on since the 9th! | ||
| Vortec57 |
Guys, getting ready to do my 1,000 mile service. I've got the service manual, what else do I need? Any tricks or tips to watch out for? | ||
| Ezblast |
See the helpfull hints section at the bottom of the KV - the part about how to loosen the peg arm is useful. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Don't adjust the primary too tight, reroute the crankcase breather. | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy is very correct about a adjusting the Primary Chain too tight !!! When too tight it causes heat, premature failure of stator, premature wear on Primary/Motor Sprocket Bearing/Clutch Bearing/Trans. Mainshaft components ... The BLAST has a idiot proof/bullet proof Primary setup, "BUT" not Harley-Davidson technician proof ... The screw/locknut is not an adjuster, but an shoe stop adjuster ... It has a Spring Tension set up which is very good ... If the Spring is in the hole fartherest it will hold the chain too tight ... If in the hole closest to the chain it will be closer to correct ... The best way(NOT THE SERVICE MANUAL WAY) to adjust is to screw the Shoe Stop in untill finger tight and measue its lenght ... NOW back out unitl it is 3/4 inch longer ... The reason "i" say do it this way is there is not way to find the TIGHT SPOT in the CHAIN as there is "NO" chain inspection cover ... There is a Plastic Piece in the Primary Cover that keeps the Primary Chain from hitting the cases if the Primary Chain Shoe Stop adjuster is incorrectly adjusted ... This Plastic Piece should be removed and discarded as it will eventually brake and fall into the chain ... "i" bypassed all the above "BUELLschitte" by simpley putting on an XB Primary Cover and chain adjuster assembly so "i" could adjust my chain to 3/4 inch on the tight spot throught inspection cover ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
The above is not a recommended method, just an alternative view on how to do things - please see the TKV Engine Procedures section for accepted ways to adjust your primary - this is still a rather untested method. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Waldo38 |
My Son called me yesterday about his Blast that I bought him to get around College. He told me the speedometer works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Does anybody have any ideas that I could suggest that he looks at on the bike. It is a 2001. Thanks! | ||
| Naustin |
It could be the speedo sensor. They are known to crap out on early Blasts. However, if what it is occasionally doing is reading about 1/2 the normal speed, and by that I mean it works, its just way off - then the problem is that you have to wait a 5 - 6 seconds after turning on the key before hitting the starter. The Speedo has a diagnostic check. If you start the bike before the speedo finishes its little self-check, it won't read properly. | ||
| Buellistic |
Waldo38: Speedometer sensor ??? If this is the promlem, sometimes they can be cleaned ??? Other wise it will have to be replaced ??? PEVENTIVE MAINTEANCE(keeps you off the side of the road when in ROUTE): Model year 2001(2006-2001= 5 years) question ??? IMHO opinion the BATTERY should be changed every 3 years(NEW OEM BATTERY) on a BLAST ... Check BATTERY Terminals once a month for tightnes(yes they do get loose) ... Keep the BATTERY on a trickle charger when not riding if possible ... Change the TRANSMISSION Oil every 5K to keep metal(normal use) that gets into the oil and collects on the speedo sensor magnet ... IMHO run the PRIMARY Chain shoe spring on the low tension side(spring tension hole closest to chain) ... Adjust the shoe adjuster to finger tight, then back out screw out 3/4 inch and tighted locknut ... This also helps keep the metal in oil to a mininum ... In Blasting LaFayette | ||
| Krid80 |
I just ordered up some new Joe Rocket gloves from NewEnough.com http://www.newenough.com/product_pictures/j/joe_ro cket_blaster_2point0_gloves/gun.jpg They ought to match my coat (I've got the Blaster 2.0 coat in Gunmetal) and look to be pretty warm. Anyhow. What gear does everyone else use? oh, here's my coat http://www.newenough.com/customer_images_2/hicks.jpg (Message edited by krid80 on November 07, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
 HJC Black Modular Helmet Ear Plugs Glasses Leather Scooter Jacket Shirt (with a undershirt in the winter) Tight Black Leather Gloves Black or Blue Dragging Jeans Black Leather Belt Socks;0) Black Steel cap toe and Heal Dingo Boots - 2 pair owned - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on November 08, 2006) | ||
| Krid80 |
As I rolled out of the drive this morning at 8:10am, the air temperature in Festus, MO according to the weather channel was +38F. Pretty cold as I don't have a balaclava or proper winter gear. I was wearing my Joe Rocket Blaster 2.0 jacket, some non riding winter gloves (non leather either and though insulated, the wind can get through that material at speed), Levi's Dockers pants with some Adidas wind pants over them and my usual Doc Martens low top boots. Needless to say, my 32 mile commute was quite cold. I've been looking for some chaps or other overpants that would keep my legs warm as my upper half (aside from my hands) stays warm enough. Don't want to go electric yet, just nice and insulated. What does everyone here use? | ||
| Wsplrll |
Vanson Cobra jacket - fleece, down vest, Icon winter gloves with fleece liners, Fieldsheer pants with quilted liners. Wool socks and Icon standard boots. Velcro handgrip warmers - the way to go. | ||
| Ezblast |
Are the new Blue cased wheel bearings the ceramic ones I've heard talk of? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mabueller |
I have been looking for a pair of overpants as well. A local store guy says he doesn't see a need for pants with removable liners here in New England. Anyone have overpants that they particularly like or dislike? | ||
| Jprovo |
I've had good luck with Joe Rocket overpants. I've owned both the Alter Ego and Ballistic types. I've ahd both of them down into the 40's and they are OK as long as I have jeans on underneath and the liner in the Alter Ego pants. also check here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3898.html?1162529280 | ||
| Swampy |
Polypropylene long johns, or fleece lined polypropylene long johns, Walmart(The Economic Devil) has both in Artic Expedition cold levels, with Stearns boating rain pants(cheap...$20). The next thing would be Polypropylene LJs, jeans, and Tour Master Caliber over pants: http://www.newenough.com/tour_master_caliber_pants _page.htm Tour Master Caliber Rocks! Or just do like I'm doing and moving to Alabama....LOL......I'm telling everybody thats whats happening to me. | ||
| Swampy |
Oh, and real wool socks, like 50% or better, your feet can be soaking wet and they will still be warm, I wear them all year long, as I do polypropylene long johns, remember, I live in central siberia(Michigan) | ||
| Styxnpicks |
guys I got my new plates: 492CC w00t | ||
| Dentonbuell |
new guy, new bike! hows it goin guys, my name is matt and i picked up my blast about a month ago. Its been working fine, same usual BS that ive ben reading about, but yesterday while riding i noticed my neutral light stays on through most gears until i get to highway speeds....anyone know whats goin on? thanks in advance for all the advice! | ||
| Ezblast |
How is it shifting - hard, a lot of misses, ok? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the board Dentonbuell! The neutral light switch is mounted on the right side of the transmission infront of the front pulley and slightly above. Check the wire to see if it is shorted or rubbed through by the belt. There is not a lot of clearance where the wire runs up behind the air cleaner housing to the main loom. |
