| Author | Message | ||
     Naustin |
Here's what I'm thinking. Ralph pointed out that the carb couldn't sit under the frame backbone because there just isn't room, but maybe if you had a longer boot, the carb could sit just off to the left of the frame, sideways.  (Message edited by naustin on July 14, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
Naustin: For the air cleaner to carb., use the the SNORLEL,air cleaner,internal PN27547-96Y off a TUBE FRAME BUELL ... Air Cleaner: K&N RC-3580 Tapered Oval ... Makes no differance where the Carb. is in the intake track(only that it is the correct length) ... | ||
| Sarodude |
Well, if ya run without a filter, then it does make a difference how much atmosphere side intake length you have - especially depending on how wild your cams are. Imagine a carb pointing sideways and you going 95 mph. What might happen to the fuel standoff coming outta the carb? Just a thought. -Saro | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont think you've really solved anything, just moved it into a different problem. Bang your left leg into it instead of your right. You could just run a rear head on the front and move the carb completely out of the way, though not really a practical solution. PS I dont think anyone here needs ralph to tell us the carb would hit the frame. I think you could have easily gone out an looked at your bike and taken credit for that.  | ||
| Naustin |
I was at work and I give credit where its due. It was just a thought. I have always run the stock intake set-up and will continue to.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Naustin: You can have the CREDIT and "i" will use your TECHNOLIGY ... Had similar THOUGHTs on PRODUCT IMPROVING the intake track ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Naustin |
Keep us posted, I'd love to see how it turns out if you do it.  ONe thought I did have is that an extra long boot like that would have more ability to bend and flex without cracking and tearing. I think half the problem with the stock boot is that it is so short and there isn't any space between the clamps to allow flex... (Message edited by naustin on July 15, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
"WILL DO !!!" In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Drfeelgood |
My dad has this wild idea of putting his Keinlin from his 98 Superglide on my blast and jetting it for my new exhaust and intake/filter setup. The carb has an accelerator pump, hand enricher, and a slow jet adjustment screw. I think I am gonna try it!  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Disconnect the accelerator pump before you even try tuning the carb in. The pump will kill the engine, so if you really want to use the pump, it will take some time and ingenuity to tune the pump in. Otherwise, it will work fine. | ||
| Buellistic |
If you keep the REVs up you do not need the accelerator pump ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
DrFG: I dont see how the accelerator pump is vacuum limited unless its some kind of internal bleed off. I checked mine and the pump linkage is direct off the throttle linkage and always works if you turn the throttle. Do you have a different style carb? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 18, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Your leg should be directly in front of it - protecting from rain (- remember that day leaving SLO and others -) and airflow - no suction - try shimming needle - though the red is also getting a noticable increase on the stack as well with no shimming - I think the problem involves a knee - especially a tall guys ;0) - a person such as that may have a harder time putting their knee in a friendly position - the gas on the filter is from the final honk - nothing else - experienced and experimented for a while now - even dynoed - with that set up you have - you still will go through boots - try the stack filter on that - I did - for over a year - lol - still there was a difference when switching from that to the stack which is what I've just done on the red bike with a red filter - and the honk/chuff is cool. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Putting a knee in a filter 'friendly' position is the last thing you want to worry about coming through a turn at 90+mph (on a Blast no less) or running the 2.5 mile track at an average speed of 80mph. Remember this is on a race bike, not a street bike. It works at high speeds only with the pre filter on and the constant rubbing put holes in it. The bike came off the track with gas all down the right side of the bike! It just simply isnt the best option for this application. On the Dyno I watched the tech put his knee directly in front of the intake, its hard to avoid. Also, I watched as at 0-1/3 throttle the filter sucked in-1/3 to 2/3 throttle it was blowing gas out-2/3 to full throttle the prefilter ballooned up. Very interesting to see. As for going through intake boots I'm still using the original boot that came with the bike from the factory! 11k+ miles | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearheaderiko: This surely can't be your Blast ??? What's all the Buellschitte under the tail section ??? Why does it still have sprocket cover, rear as this is a race job ??? The "pee green sock" looks like Buellschitte !!! The exhaust wrap looks like Buellschitte and needs to be painted hi-temp black which will improve its purpose ... Its an "A Plus" on the foot peg mounting, push rod covers, and oil filter safety wire ... How about some more pictures please? In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on August 19, 2006) (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 19, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats some kind of reversion - I'm not getting it and on my 3 dynos with it on that did not occur - perhaps your exhaust setup is causing a waive in that rpm range - because that is still going to happen with the other intake - I know - I would be looking for the reason why - time to play with needle shimming or something to stop that from happening. By the way - where did your dyno put you? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
OK, here is the question: I had the Little Kids Blasts needle shimmed .020, had a slight bog, shimmed it to .050, and it goes away. As listed above you are recommending .01 ? Or do you mean .10? The CV carb site that I have been recommending says .050 http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm By the way, if you didn't read it somewhere else I opened up the vacuum bleed holes to .100, that modification appears to have no noticable effect, not like shimming the needle. | ||
| Ezblast |
done - those settings where for the old twin models - I shimmed 0.030 - will try 0.050" - Thank you Swampy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vortec57 |
Finally got some pics of my air intake setup. It's the AmericanSportbike velocity stack, outerwears prefilter, gas filler neck boot and a couple of springs with a bracket. Seems to be working quite well, not slipping off and the boot for sure won't tear!  <br><br>  | ||
| Flrider7 |
How long have you used this setup? Or at least this boot? Mine left me stranded for the second time with under 6,500 miles. It seems when the dealer re-jetted they overtightened the boot. In fact, when they first gave me the bike back I checked it and noticed that rubber was sticking out of the little slots on the clamps, and told them that this would fail,.....it did. They were nice enough to send someone over to the town I live in to pick it up today, but I know they will just over tighten it again. Even after explaining the whole intake boot thing with the head mechanic, he stuck to his guns and said it was fine. I can't work on my bike, and need something that will be as sure starting as my car. Could yours be the "magic boot? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nice set up Vtec. Is that carb solid mounted to the engine (bottom strap to engine)? HD uses a variety of rubber bushings that would go well with that set up. I hope your boot works out since the main problem is overtightening and perhaps that may be impossible with that hose (perhaps). Maybe 'fool proof', but I'm skeptical. If it works that might be the solution to FL's problem since the best idea is to be able to do the boot yourself, but impossible(?) in his case. Finally replaced the boot on mine after 11,000+ miles (4000mi with the unbraced Pro Series, 2000mi on the racetrack). However, not because it was bad, I just happened to have a new one on hand and the carb was off. It is really a sturdy little bugger. | ||
| Vortec57 |
Yeah, my carb is also mounted to the motor via the strap. The boot has been on now for about 300 miles and hasn't made the slightest inclination that it's going to fail. I went through 2 others this summer already. One thing for sure you can tighten on it until the clamp fails before you tear the boot! | ||
| Flrider7 |
1. I have scoliosis severe enough that nerves can literally pinch into place from reaching around at weird angles to do this stuff and definitely don't need to do this on the side of the road somewhere. (imagine your arm stuck straight out and in terrible pain!) 2. I live in a condo (no garage) and they have these guys in golf carts that ride around and fine us for doing stuff like this. 3. Most likely I would screw it up anyway if a trained mechanic did. I wish I could work on them like you guys and gals do.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Unfortunately the strap or carb will eventually crack. It also puts the engine vibrations more intensely into the carb, which is bad. HD uses rubber oil tank bushings, 1/4 inch bolt size, with 2 male fittings, or with a 1 male 1 female fitting, either would be ideal for your set up. HD part #'s 62563-65 (1/4" studs), 50235-63 (5/16" male stud & 5/16" bolt hole), Both are readily available aftermarket or HD dealer | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FL: I didnt want to ask, but I assumed you had good reasons not to do the work. Glad you can still ride though. Unfortunately, trained mechanics screw up a lot of Blasts and unless a good Buell friendly tech can be found, its almost better for most to learn to do the work themselves (even though the Blast is ridiculously simple!) | ||
| Vortec57 |
My strap has a "joint" in it. I'll look into something more "vibration friendly" though. Thanks for the heads up on that. | ||
| Flrider7 |
Gearheaderiko, thank you for your honesty. Yeah, the lovely P-3 simply may not be the best choice for someone who can't wrench on bike, and has to rely on paid mechanics, especially when they can be over an hour away traffic time. I love my "Mary,"but I need something I can start and go with no questions asked. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just to clarify (for others who may read this) I believe the Blast to be very reliable and durable needing very little maintenance. Unfortunately it seems impossible to find a competent mechanic to work on them and once its touched by incompetent hands it just goes bad from there. Whether its lack of respect for the Blast or Buells in general, or maybe all the V-twins suffer from such poor work too, I dont know.(though the few times I've had to pay to get work done on my twins, the work has been faulty with my having to redo it). |
