| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Check everything else, vent line, boot, plug, plug wire, exhaust header tightness, clean the carb, etc. - if all else fails - change ignition - lol - sounds like an ignition going south - hope I'm wrong... Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  
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| Naustin |
BuellKat just went though this, right? Did she ever isolate the problem?? | ||
| Cobalt60 |
It happened twice today on my way into work this morning. Felt more like hitting the kill switch than running out of fuel. An ignition problem sounds like the right direction. I will check everything though. Thanks for the support. | ||
| Buellkat |
Mine did not backfire, it was the manifold coupler, 'das boot'.LOL | ||
| Nd_xb |
Looking for little help.... Took a 120 mile trip today to get a good burger (live in a small town). We were cruising at 65 the whole way and after only 90 miles my wifes blast cut off and she had to switch to reserve. We pulled into a gas station right away and put exactly 2 gallons in hers and only 1.4 in the XB!! So the Blast is getting 45 MPG and the XB is getting closer to 60 MPG! What gives?? Blast is running pro series intake with V&H exhaust..... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
First off I'm having this problem with a newly aquired Blast (not my only Blast) but havent had a chance to check into it. Some thoughts: Incorrect carb jetting, should be 45/170 or 45/175. Incorrect timing. Bad plug or gap. Running too long in too low a gear or (on the opposite end) lugging the engine. Dirty air cleaner. Primary overfull and/or chain too tight. Choke staying on (enrichener). Bad compression. Just some thoughts. Some obvious yes. But you're right, the mpg should be 50-70. | ||
| Swampy |
On the Little Kids Blast, which is stock other than carb jetting, I find myself running in 4th gear and thinking, why am I only going 80 miles per hour? ....as I am running off the rev limiter. | ||
| Ezblast |
Primary too tight. | ||
| Ezblast |
Cobalt - Das Boot! | ||
| 88m |
ok need some help, but its all my fault. a few weeks ago i heard a rattle and traced it to my rear exhaust strap. so i ordered a new one and thought nothing of it. after work i got on the bike and started it. i instantly noticed something was wrong. i looked and i lost one exhaust bolt on the head. still i rode it to the autoparts store. got a 5/16-18 hex nut but it didn't feel like it was going on the threads right so i backed it off and just drove home. got home and it got worse. i think i lost a stud from the head! the side that was good is now gone.  what should i do. try and pull the head my self and take to a shop or just give up and take to the dealer? | ||
| Ezblast |
Order the stud and two nuts and apply them - stud with hi temp red locktite - torqueing to speck - when changing exhausts on the red bike I ran into that problem - a stud came out with the nut - lol - this is not a hard thing. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Looks like its sheared off to me.... Maybe I misunderstood? | ||
| Jmynes |
EZ out! Don't take it to the dealer, they'll want to sell and install a new head. That's if they'll even look at it! | ||
| Ezblast |
Drill then easy out - be very carefull or you'll end up heli-coiling as well - lol - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome 88m! Getting broken studs out can be a tricky problem. If you've never done it you might want to ask for help (someone you know thats already done it and competent). Have you removed broken studs/bolts before? Everybody's got an opinion on how to do it so if you havent any experience let us know and we'll rattle off our ways. Just be warned that the more you screw up the stud, the harder (and costly) it will be to get out, so think first. | ||
| 88m |
i have never done it on a head but have some experience with it and have a few buddies to help. just wanted to gauge it, i wasn't in a very good mood when it happened. i called a dealer near me and for what they want i can just spend a little more and get a new ported head online. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
mmmmm.....new ported head. Sounds like a great idea! Blast or XB? | ||
| 88m |
well, i was just thinking of getting a NRHS stage 1 blast head. i dont know it thats going to be a bigger project the just trying to fix the head or not. if i got the complete head would i need to do anything else? | ||
| Ezblast |
Taking the stud out is not that big a deal - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 88m |
well i started to take the stud out and was doing good but when i tried to use the ez out it snapped off! | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - perfect - this is what you do - get a vice grips locked onto the end of the EZ out and slowly twist it out by hand - use a needle nose vice grips if you have to - been there - luck! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 88m |
the ez out broke pretty close to the tip so there is nothing to get a grip on. should i just try to drill it again? | ||
| Ezblast |
Jeez - if it where me type of thing - I know what I'd do - take a rubber mallet - give it a few careful wacks then see if the easy out will back out - then I'd drill it but watch carefully - when that tension is applied to the easy out it is also applied to the stud - I had one stud break up from that - cleaned it out with a tap and was good to go - if you manage to get an easy out in - for further reference - though more painfully slow - if you get an easy out bedded in - always back it out by hand with a vice grips - it works almost every time that way, where as backing it out with the drill can lead to oopses - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jmynes |
If it's a spiral ez-out, try twisting it clockwise to get it out if you can get any kind of grip on it. If it's the better (IMHO) straight kind of ez-out. I think you should go with the upgraded head. Those ez-outs are hard (hence brittle) and pretty tough to drill through. | ||
| Swampy |
So the correct way to do it now is to take a common nut and a common arc welder and put the nut over the broken off easy out and weld the nut to the easy out (inside the nut). When the easy out come out then redrill the hole carefully and clean up the hole with a tap or rethread it with a helicoil or something similar. Don't forget to take out your battery when you do this.... | ||
| 88m |
when the stud broke off to begin with, it was recessed. and with the drill and just the tip of the ez out in the recess i think i am just going to have to pull the head and take it to the machine shop. if i do anymore i think i will just end up trashing the head. dont know if i will get the ported head or just wait to get mine back from the shop. when i reinstall the head what other parts do i need to change other than gaskets. | ||
| Ezblast |
You'll have to do a base gasket as well - they will take a needle nose vice grips and twist it out - guarantee - then charge you for two hours - sigh... GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 88m |
what about stuff like exhaust gaskets? | ||
| Jprovo |
HD/Buell sells a top end gasket kit that has everything that you will need gasket wise. If you can't find a Blast specific one, buy Sportster set, and you will have two sets! They are not that expensive, if I remember correctly from the last time I bought one. To do it right, and to prevent the cylinder base gasket from leaking upon re-assembly, you need to pull the cylinder also. You will also need a new set of piston rings (like $15) and a hone to break the glaze on the clyinder. If that sounds like too much, there is another "sneakier" way... Get the piston wrist pin circlip groove just clear of the base of the clyinder without removing the piston from the cylinder. (the piston will hang out of the bottom of the cylinder) Remove circlip and wrist pin. Lift Cylinder and Piston off the engine as an assembly... This will save you from buying a new set of rings and honing the cylinder. Personally, I spend the $15 and get a new set of rings. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think we'll have to start a thread on "How to remove a broken bolt or stud"! There are dozen or so ways to do it (as previously posted) and we all have our favourites. Personally, Easy-Outs suck! If the bolt will turn with an easy out-you dont need the easy out! A last hopeless resort (imho). Better off to drill and tap it for a left handed bolt (or loctite a right hander). It'll either come out with the tap (just like an easy out, it'll break if not careful) or out with the bolt and if the bolt breaks you can still drill it again. Of course you need a supplier of left handed taps and bolts! Hadnt thought of welding a nut to it. A good idea if you're handy with Oxy/Ace or have an ARC welder. Most will back out with a small punch and hammer. If its seized, that wont work and will likely break an easy out too. Some things take heat to remove, but not a good idea around the gas tank. Last resort is to drill it out carefully with bigger and bigger bits (again left handed drill bits a plus). Then tap as necessary if you still cant get the threads out. Some additional ideas to add to the others, but we'll all use what works best for us. |
