| Author | Message | ||
     Xgecko |
45 pilot 170 main and yes even with the anchor you will see some improvement | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
I apologize for posting this here but it seems more of a general question. I've done one too many Rochester Q-Jet carbs in my time and something struck me as odd in all the talk about re-jetting. I ordered a DynoJet kit for my Blast and checked the parts list and I found the problem there too. There is no mention of new gaskets in the kit or these posts. Are there no gaskets for the float and diaphram cover or are they sturdy enough to be reusable? I don't want any last minute part run surprises. Thanks!!! Rich | ||
| Xgecko |
I've not had any problems with the gaskets on either end. Admitedly I had other problems but those were my fault not any problem with the carb | ||
| Hootowl |
The gaskets on the Q-Jets are paper. What are the Blast's carb gaskets made out of? Phenolic?(sp) Rubber? Paper? The jet kits don't come with new gaskets??? | ||
| Frog |
I don't own a BLAST yet on a 100 mile ride is there a vibration problem thru the handle bars to your hands (tingles)? | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Blasterd, I changed to Mobil 1 20/50 recently in my Blast along with 75/90 Mobil 1 gear lube. I'm sold the tranny is much smoother and everything seems quieter. Saro, Thank for the comments on the new pushrod covers. They are available from Zipper's and are made for the Blast, this is also were I got my 567 cams and new lifters. Here's a better picture of the covers;  Ray | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Fssnoc, that looks like a sidecar rig there...got any more pics?? | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Scott, Good eye, this my bike being prepared to go to Bonneville.    Ray | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I in the midst of my 15000 mile maintainence decided that my brake pads need to be replaced. Not wanting to pay $110 for the OEM pads I ordered front and rear Ferodo pads from our sponsor ASB on Friday. Yesterday they arrived (fast thank-you). I had forgotten what Good Brakes are like. Though I haven't bedded them in completely they are much better than stock. I have a bite on the front that is sensitive enough that I now feel comfortable in trying stopies. I will keep all apprised at to the wear. I get about 5K miles out of a front and about 8 out of the rear OEM pads | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Totally slick >  wanna build me one? heh heh | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
Yikes!! Ok, I got the White Brothers E-Series on the Blast. Sounds good but man is it loud (or is it just me not being used to it?) Question two, being anal about leaks I can detect a slight leak (very light sensation of puffing) and the exhaust port...how bad is that? I had one more gasket and I found the first to be kinda hard to seat but I did get it. Do any of you running the WB pipe wear ear plugs? | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
P.S. Yes it has made a difference in the power delivery by SOTP measurements. I found that it will run right up to 50 without trying and I don't need to hold 1st or second as long to get up to speed. Did I mention that it's loud, not a raspy tinny loud but man does it put out some bass. | ||
| Xgecko |
The WB pipe is the Quietest of the bunch. Compared to the lawnmower sound of the stock anchor no it's not quiet. What I have noticed is that I don't hammer the throttle as much since I get better power across the powerband I don't need WFO as much. If you feel a puffing then something isn't seated right...I hate to say it but you will likely need to take it apart and make sure everything seats properly. I don't run plugs with the WB I did all the time with my V&H | ||
| Blake |
You definitely need to eliminate the exhaust leak. Good to hear it made a real difference.  | ||
| Dansherman |
So Brandon from x-roads calls me yesterday to say that the rearsets are ready, I give him my CC information and today there was a package waiting for me at home I like living 75 miles from x-roads. They are all installed, but I need to adjust the shift linkage so the shifter and brake sit at the same height. That's a project for tomorrow. -- dan | ||
| Blake |
Dan, Consider me a nosy busybody... Why do the shifter and brake need to be at the same height? Instead, suggest adjusting them each individually for best ergonomic position. Shifter must accommodate lifting for up-shift, brake just gets pushed down. Big difference in the two functions. Positions will likely be different too. | ||
| Prof_Stack |
Fssnoc2501: The replacement chrome pushrod covers sure look better than the stock plastic looking cover over the whole side. How much work was it to put the new ones on? Cost? | ||
| Dansherman |
Blake they don't need to be the same height, but I've got a feeling it would bug me if they were different (I'm a selective perfectionist). However, thanks to your nosing I'll play with it for a while and see what I like best. New front tire came too! Time to find some twisties! -- dan | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
Update on the exhaust leak. It turns out that it wasn't the gasket. I noticed that the leak was coming from the inside of the collar at the edge of the pipe. Sure enough I removed the head pipe, capped off one end with my hand and blew into the cannister end .... I had an air leak between the pipe and the retaining collar. Looks like someone did a Friday afternoon job on the bead holding the collar on. Word of advice, check the seal on your pipe before installation. Right now I have some JB Weld setting up to fill the small hole on the bad bead. Oh...words of wisdom part two...make sure you wipe off the end of the pipe you blow through, the clerk at pep boys found my black lipstick quite entertaining | ||
| Xgecko |
Dan I too am a bit on the Anal side in that manner and I made them both the same height to start...then I ended up moving them around until they were in a comfortable position because even is more irritating than I could deal with. Getting the brake at the right height was my problem (I like a high brake I guess). | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Prof, Requires removing rocker box to install, which wasn't a problem for me as I already had the top end apart . They are available from Zipper's for around $100. They are easy to install com with billet peice that bolts to the case (comes with new bolts and pushrod cover. The pushrod covers are standard H-D and just need the half round top cover cut to length for proper length. BTW I agree that they look much better, but the reason I went to them was ease in adjusting the pushrods which I now have to do since my current mods. Ray | ||
| Subarubrat |
Who is the best source for Blast rear tires? | ||
| Xgecko |
I have used all three stock sized tires the OEM Dunlops are trash and expensive. Pireli MT 75's are Cheap, sticky and heat up quick. I got about 4-5K per rear so that wasn't too bad but they wear strangely they'll look good and then you will get a major wear phase when it will look like the tire is just wasting away and then then seem to go on like they're not gonna die. Right now I'm using Avons which I like better (so far) than the others however Avon's are slow to heat up and the rear has a "different" profile than the others. They take a bit to get used to. I find myself doing the racer weave in the morning to heat the tires up. If you like country roads get Pireli's if you like to cruise Avons will probably last longer. BTW the Avons are a bit more than Pireli's but still cheaper than OEM | ||
| Dansherman |
Subaru - Dennis Kirk (www.denniskirk.com) works best for me, but that's because they're less than an hour away. They did have pretty good prices on the Pirelli MT75's though. Xgecko - Haven't found the perfect setting yet, I've been too busy to ride this weekend so far. I had taken my front wheel off to get the tire changed, the bike was suspended from the ceiling. While I took the tire in, the hook in the ceiling that the webbing was attached to bent and the bike fell. Not far, but enough to tip over onto it's right side. Unfortunatly, I had just installed my rearsets and the bolt holding the footrest bent badly. Fortunatly that's the only thing that bent, and it was $0.64 for a new bolt. Now that everything is back together, I took it for a short test ride (1/4 mile) and noticed something goofy with the front brake. When I pull the lever, the bike slows down and stops, but it sounds/feels like the pads are grinding. I can't see any unusual marks on the rotor, so maybe the system is just settling in. Has anyone noticed symptoms like this? -- dan | ||
| Xgecko |
Mine had symptoms like that but I know mine had a bent Rotor. since I changed it I haven't heard a thing. I just finished changing out the fork springs to the dual stage Works Performance springs. Some things I noticed that anyone who is planing on this might want to know. Removing the Clip from the top of the fork is the most PITA thing I have evey done. The manual shows two hand doing it one with a screwdriver (I used a comfy phillips) and the other a scribe to remove the clip. RD recomended an Icepick but the only one I had is brass and not sharp after flailing around for way to long on one leg I switched legs and tools and poped the clip right out with a large Jewelers flathead screwdriver. The rest went fairly easy until I took a look at the Bushings. The right side bushing look fine but the left side ones look a bit ragged. Unfortunatly I only bought oil seals. I replaced the one on the left but the right side looked good so I left it. There is no easy way to re-seat the guide bushing other than smacking it with a hammer (HD has a nice expensive tool for this) so do it carefully. In all honesty I probably could have gotten by with not even looking at the bottom end of the forks the seals looked good and the bushings would have been happier had I not removed and reseated them. Assembling the fork again was easy enough I used roughly 9.5 onces of fork oil (the book says 9.2) and as of an hour ago it hadn't sunk completely into all the places it's supposed to. I am too tired to take it out for the proper flogging it deserves which would probably speed up that process. My choice for which setting was the middle lockout tube and the Works washers. I'll use this until I change out the rear shock and then I'll likely switch to the longest lockout tube. BTW this kit is quite easy to do it's just that my bike is not set up (bars, fairing forkbrace etc) well to do this switch out easily. I'll post my opinions on the feel tommorrow night. For doing this I put the rearend on my stand (jackstads and a rod through the axel) and then attached a C clamp to a beam in my carport and ran some webbing through it and the frame. I did the actual lifting with a car jack. I need to give a special thank you to Philip Mattingly as his hints were very helpful. | ||
| Darthane |
Fss, Love what you did to the Blast for the run at Bonneville...tell me, is that a custom made air cleaner, or is that an aftermarket accessory you bought? This winter is my time to toy with the Blast, and a new intake is definitely one of the things on the list. I'd thought Force was making one but haven't found any info on it. Also, what seems to be the consensus for the best muffler for the Blast? I'll eventually be slapping a Nallins 515cc kit on mine. Got the race kit for the Firebolt, so I'll wait to do anything more to him for a while and concentrate on making sure that my girlfriend's ride (the Blast) can keep up! Bryan | ||
| Dann |
While washing my bike yesterday I noticed a crack in my WB E Series exhaust header. The crack starts at the weld on the bottom mount and extends down underneath the engine. It looks like if this came apart while I am riding something bad could happen.  The exhaust has been on the bike for about six months and about 2000 fast but relatively easy miles. I have not heard of this happening to anybody else so I guess I got a bad one. I plan on calling White Brothers tomorrow. Just a heads up for people with this exhaust as I know quite a few people around here have this mounted on their bikes. I'll keep you posted on what they say/do about this. | ||
| Dann |
Sorry about the poor imige quality, but hopefully you can tell the area I am talking about. | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Bryan, Thanks for the remarks. Yes the intake is custom by me. I'll send you an email about details on building. So far it's working out well. Saw that you are thinking about getting some decals from sweetdaddy. I highly recommend him he does some excellent work and the service is speedy. His prices are very reasonable also. Some pics of his work:    | ||
| Dansherman |
Xgecko - where did you mount your rear brake resevoir after you got the rearsets? I've got mine rubberbanded to the old y-frame bolts, but that's not gonna work for much longer. The grinding in the frnot brake went away after a 20 mile ride. I'll probably order new pads soon though, just to be safe. -- dan |
