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Buell Forum » Quick Board Archives » Archive through July 27, 2004 » Blast idles, but roll on the throttle and wants to die. « Previous Next »

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Steve_mackay
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 06:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Was on the way to a wedding(in my tux an all)about a month ago, and my 2000 Blast decides it doesn't want to be ANY part of this wedding stuff.

It idles fine, but once you give it any more throttle, it wants to die. I replaced the TPS, and same thing. Not quite sure what to do. Now, I should really go out and pick up the service manual, but I was hoping someone in here would have run into the same problem at some point in time.


Thanks in advance.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check first - make sure your plug and plug wire are on and tight, fuel vent line kinked or pluged is my first thought, you could try poping the gas cap open (make sure you have enough fuell also - lol), if that solves it then inspect the vent and line for obstructions, kinks,holes, etc..
How high is the bike idling, if high, it could well be an intake leak - with the coupling either loose or torn. The WD test around the coupling could show this, however, if the idle is high, try tightening the coupling first to see if that cures the problem, if not then replace - they are inexpensive and easy to replace. Also if its cutting off as you rev to go - check to make sure the kick stand is firmly up - or the switch will cut out the motor.
Hope that helps!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Shotgun
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This also will happen with a idle mixture screw poorly adjusted, usually when it is backed out too far (too rich).
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Bikediver
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

DId you leave the side stand down. Blasts start and idle with the stand down in gear, but try to move them and they die.
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nope. I was in the middle of riding it down the street when it 1st started this problem. I did check to make sure there was plenty of gas. Boy would I have felt stupid about that. : ) There was more than 1/2 a tank : )

at 1st look, the breather tube is fine. tried it with the gas cap off, same thing.

Sprayed WD around the intake band. idle did not increase.

Don't see how the idle screw would have been touched. it was running perfectly before that one ride. And I had not done a thing to it.

the plug could be a possibility. I'll check it when it cools down now.

I'll keep ya all informed, and thanks for the tips.

I've got a small mpeg 4 movie of what it's doing, here:

http://www.mackay.us/albums/album05/blast_problems.mp4

quicktime may be required (hey, sue me, I'm not a microsoft fan : ) )

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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 12:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like a clogged primary or your kick stand switch malfunctioning - try closing the circuit with tinfoil, if everything works, then that is the culprit, after that, it would be time to give the carb a good tap, and if that doesn't work, get in there and inspect a jet. That said - the kick stand sensor has been the culprit more than once on this problem, with the carb problem being very rare.
Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, looks to me like I'll be pullin' more crap off the bike. It most definately isn't the kickstand switch, nor a loose spark plug. Now when replacing the TPS, is there adjustments/procedures to set them?

You can tell me to shut up and quite being a cheapskate and buy the service manual anytime now : )
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Steve - You have mail!

GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the switch,

remember that when you rev it up to go your also letting out on the clutch. If the sidestand is down then the engine dies, if the switch is faulty then the engine will die when the clutch is released.
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The switch is fine. If the switch was at fault, it still wouldn't have the symptoms it has while in neutral, even with the kickstand down. IIRC it only happens when in gear, with the stand down.
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Newfie_buell
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Isn't there some kind of tilt sensor on that bike?
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Newfie - yes - also the kickstand, and clutch switches (more automatic things to go wrong, however - bypass for the kickstand is some foil and tape/permanently connecting switch, and bypas for the clutch switch is flip the breaker, I think you would have to loop or disconect the bank angle sensor also)- lol -

The engine will shut off if in gear with the stand down - so this happens even in neutral - hmm - check the left side of your carb - you should see a hard line comming out - capped or plugged - perhaps a break there - sounds like a massive vacuum leak, but could also be a plugged primary. If it wasn't for the neutral part - I'd say switch - if this happens only when not in neutral then the switch is the usual culprit. Get that manual yet? - lol
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

(Thanks - cool tip on the break cleaner tip!)

edited by ezblast on July 20, 2004
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Cyclonemick
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2004 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just to let you know when I had a manifold leak on my m2 wd-40 had no effect but then I tried brake cleaner it died instantly. Wd 40 dosen't always do the job.
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Sunday, July 25, 2004 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Allright, something is up. The TPS is giving me .720V at the LOWEST setting I can get out of it. Take the screws out completely, and it work down to .5 +/- .05 but that ain't gonna help me out riding the thing : )

So my blast saga continues. Anyone have any ideas?
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2004 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Got me - anyone else?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Steve_mackay
Posted on Monday, July 26, 2004 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The only thing I can think of, is to machine the TPS sensor to have larger slots in it. That may be cheating, but heck, I have 6 CNC machining centers to choose from : )

The beauty of working in a tool & die shop.
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