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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through September 12, 2007 » 1998s3t no start up lights « Previous Next »

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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i,ve had my s3t for 5 years replaced rocker gaskets, rear isolaters,voltage reg.and battery.But now i,m confussed.The problem i,m having. i was riding it started cutting out badly then died.the dash light do not light up.checked battery full charge. with key on to running lights. the tail light works also the clock.with the key in run position the bike is totaly dead the clock even stops.its like there is a dead short or the switch is bad or the emc ,or the stator grounded out anyone ever have this problem any help would help. i do have a manual just need a direction to start looking . thaks bob b.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Start with the simple stuff. First, check the condition of all the fuses. There may be one that developed a hairline crack.

Then make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. This means removing them, making the terminals shiny and corrosion free and reinstalling them, making sure the terminal screws don't bottom out before tightening up.

There's a main circuit breaker, an ignition relay and starter relay. Make sure those wire connections are clean and tight.
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Fullauto
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd put money on the ignition switch. Mine has done that to me a couple of times and a squirt or two of chain lube into the thing made it work.

Cheap at least.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am with F/A on this one. My ignition switch did similar things to me,the connectors got funky and no matter how much I cleaned and fiddled it would still cut out occasionally.
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I,ll start with the ignition switch. I put a couple drops of lube in it no good results.No head light or dashlights or ignition pannel or clock or tail light with key in run position. Only parking light and dash lights in the off parking. Is there a way to by pass it to check. Thanks Bob B.
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When i get a new ignition is the key going to fit my saddle bags? What will i have to do to get them all to match. Thanks Bob B.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had kinda the opposite thing done when I bought saddlebags for my 98 S3. The dealer was able to special order the bag locks with my ignition key code. Maybe the dealer can special order a key switch with your key code? If not, then you would have to have your bag locks rekeyed.
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Fullauto
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You've jinxed me. My ignition switch just crapped itself about half an hour ago............sigh.

Just ordered a new one from Al. Cheap..
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Fullauto
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Behind the panel in the ignition barrel there's a hole at the top. I just squirted hell out of it with switch cleaner and lube. Worked the key a few times and .....Hey presto. Only a temporary fix by the looks.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whenever you order a key cylinder from a dealer, you need to provide them with your key code so it matches. Ignition, saddlebag, fuel door, whatever...
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Yo_barry
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd also say the ignition switch.

There are two ways to fix this.. order a replacement from JP Cycles or somewhere similar. They run about $30. The disadvantage is that the new ignition key won't fit any of the other locks--fork, gas cap, saddle bags, seat.

The other option is to peel back the rubber Buell backing on your original key to find the code, then order that code on a Dyna lock from your HD dealer. I think that will run you about $50-60 but all the keys work in all the locks.

I did the first and it's not that inconvenient to carry two keys. But that ignition switch is a know problem with these bikes.

Barry
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Bartimus
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you think your ignition switch is suspect, it is simple to check out.
disconnect the switch from the wiring harness. It has a 3 pin connector.
One pin is your +12 VDC, the other is for ignition, and the third is for lights.
Just jumper all three together and see if you have all your lights, and see if it will turn over...

I've had many ignition switches die while on the road, and have become very good at hot wiring. : )

Good luck!
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ordered one from Al. But did the jumper test no lights. just speedo light.so now i,m at EMC or Stator any suggestions. I cleaned all the grounds , starter termanils. THANKS BOB B.
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got lighted up for about 20 sec. till i hit the starter button.Now its wait till Wednesday till new switch gets here. Fullauto the lube worked took time to get in.Now that i,ve seen lights i don,t have to JP CYCLES Sunday i can just enjoy the hill climbs in Anamosa Iowa. Just bites having to take the van. thanks too all who gave advice. not running yet but closer. Bob B.
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Ebutch
Posted on Friday, September 07, 2007 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any automotive 3 pole key switch will work! All you have to do is hard wire it in.15 to 20 bucks at auto parts.That beats stock switch 75 bucks.Pull Some Gs Butch

(Message edited by ebutch on September 07, 2007)
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put the new switch in today that i got from Al. Every thing lights up on the dash but just clicks at the starter.also a buzzing at four wire plug in by the oil tank. the battery checked at 12.5 volts. maybe a starter relay next.getting closer. thanks bob b.
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Duckbuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 11:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi thunderbolt, my brother's X1 was doing the same thing as yours. Battery fully charged, passed a load test, and charging 14.2 volts @ 2000 rpm. Lights at the dash, but when hitting starter button, just a click and dead. Sparks at the positive battery terminal too. We cleaned the grey oxidation off the battery terminals to get bright shiny connections. PROBLEM SOLVED!!
He had parked the bike outdoors for a couple of weeks. It corroded the terminals and the steel spacers that were installed between the battery and cables.
Hope this helps!
Cheers!
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Thunderbolt3
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes i got running. Thank you every one. It turned out to be the battery after the ignition switch was replaced.the 12.5 volts was battery aloan.just off charger. took it to batterys plus and only 9.6 on load.and 12.3 standing volts as i was getting.all your help was greatly appreciated.Bob B.
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