| Author | Message | ||
     Dnchevyman |
ok, im giving up, the only thing im going to try to replace now is the Bank Angle Sensor. After that i have ran out of parts to replace. I have a 99 x1. It was running like crap, backfiring and chugging, and cutting out. Now, its not even starting. I was not getting spark, so i replaced the Ignition Pick Up, The Coil, And today i tried a New ECM. I have tested every wire related to ignition in the harness and everything checks out fine. except the 2 outer terminals on the coil plug arent getting a signal. the middle terminal is getting power though. today i found out i am not getting fuel either. i pulled the injectors out of the block and they are not squirting any fuel. i am getting 55lbs fuel pressure though. i hooked up a noid light to the injector plug, and its not picking up a signal either. So tomorrow im getting a new BAC and hoping that will be the miracle cure. If not, Im totally lost as to what could cause this???? If anyone can help me out at all, i really could use it at this point. im out of ideas, and out of parts to replace. So if you have any technical advice or experience with something like this on your buell, or even if you have some parts you could donate for cheap or free that i could try in hopes of fixing my bike, I would appreciate it. Im at the point of selling the bike as a garage decoration. | ||
| Iamike |
Your issues sound similar to my '99 S3. Mine had started mild surges on the way home from Homecoming and has been getting worse since then. Now it coughs and backfires both ends. I am trying not to just start changing things but haven't had a whole lot of luck tracing down the problem. If your coil isn't sparking but you've changed the components, is it possible you have a bad ground? The coil produces the spark when its lead is grounded. That was the next place I was going to look. Mine does start and run but when I twist the throttle it misses real bad. I also suspected the fuel pump and have 50# static but I can't find the right connector to run the motor and test it at the T. I am just going to T the gauge into the fuel line. | ||
| Bartimus |
Mike, this sounds similar to the problem I am having with the '99 S3 I just bought. I rode it home, no problem, about 15 miles. Took it to the washrack and cleaned the spooge off the lower engine, and then took it out for a ride to dry it off. about 5 miles into the ride it started running like crap, back firing, and trying to stall out. I limped it home and now it won't start, just backfires out both ends like you described. I called the previous owner, (who was the service manager at Santa Fe HD/Buell) and he's going to send someone over to take a look at it this morning. I'll post what he finds, if anything... | ||
| Iamike |
I suspected water too since I rode in a pretty heavy rain on the way to MN going to Homecoming. It is kind of intermittent though which may indicate a connection issue. I just have had trouble finding the time to work on it. I did the obvious things that were needed anyway. Intake seals, plugs, fuel filter. Checked the plug wires. I would like to check the TPS output and the coil but those connectors are a little tough to get into and run the bike. I just need to spend a little time and I'm sure it's something fairly easy. | ||
| Sparky |
+1 on the ground connections. That's one thing common to most bike electrics. There are multiple wires going to ground points in various places that need to be removed, cleaned and continuity tested if possible. Also clean and continuity check the battery negative cable, the ground strap from engine to frame, and voltage regulator ground. Note: the two outer coil terminals don't get a positive voltage signal when in operation. They get a ground through the cam position sensor (ignition pick-up). That's why it is important to check the various ground wires' connections. | ||
| Numb_nutz |
I also have a 99S3 started running like crap after 30mi ride after fill up. Cleaned the tank, fresh fuel, no better. Took it to the dealer and to my surprise they couldn't fix it. The bike won't start or if it does it's running on the front cylinder. If you unhook the tps it will run at idle ok or maybe up 2k. If i warm it up like that and plug the tps in it just dies. The dealer installed new tps, ecm, bank angle sensor, cam sensor, intake seals. I still have a bike i cant ride. I'm a auto tech so fuel injection is something i'm used to working on but this thing is crazy. | ||
| Iamike |
That's what I've been trying to avoid is to just start changing things. since I'm not getting any codes I don't think that it is one of those items messing up. I would like to do a TPS reset but will wait until I can chase down BluzM2 since I won't go to the dealer until last resort. I checked the head temp sensor, reinstalled the original O2 sensor and some of those things that were cheap and easy. Now I think it is time to go through the grounding. I may even put the original ECM back on to make sure that isn't the problem. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
yea i hear everyone that replied. the crazy thing is i done have any spark or fuel at all. there is fuel pressure, but the injectors arent pulsing. and i have no spark at all | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Not sure if it's related, but for what it's worth I had a problem with my X1 a while ago, would intermittently run really rough as if it had dirty fuel. Sometimes I'd get an ECM fault light, sometimes not. Took me ages to work it out because it was intermittent, turned out to be the wire breaking down as it entered the engine temp sensor. Put in a new temp sensor, running fine ever since. | ||
| Oldog |
No spark, no fuel but have pressure, Little or no ECM out to injectors. 1. Ground Black pin 2,or 11 12v on GY? (87 at IGn relay) a. coil checks in spec and passes test plugs and wires ok? Low voltage side resistance 0.5 - 0.7 Ohms High voltage side resistance5.5 ~ 7.5K Ohms b. no solenoid activity on injectors, Injectors get +12 v from ignition feed and Ground from ECM check ECM grounding. c. CP connects to the ECM directly and must have correct voltage 5 I believe, and ground. +1 bad ground close wiring inspection is required pay attention to the wiring connectors possible bad ecm ?? suggestion, start at source and work to loss of power. | ||
| Sparky |
Dan, no trouble codes either? What does work? - fuel pump primes - headlight - turn signals, stop & brake lights - instruments & instr lights - sidestand switch (or bypassed?) - clutch switch - neutral switch - horn - engine run/stop switch Any add-ons like Power Commander? The only EFI book I have is a XB9R service manual with schematics and troubleshooting guides. Do you have the manual for your X1? I don't know how similar the ECMs are between these bikes, but they can't be that much different. The problem is probably going to be some obscure wire anomaly that is common to the fuel injectors and coil. | ||
| Oldog |
that would be the ECM ground or related wiring Err oh yeah.  | ||
| Dnchevyman |
everything you listed works. the only things that dont work are the spark and injectors. im gonna try oldogs stuff and check grounds now. ill let ya know if anything changes. | ||
| Brokeneck |
I've been having similar issues with my FI S3 runs great for a while and then will miss and spit and sputter for a while and then it will clear up again. Thought it was just a case of getting caught in the rain with a naked Forcewinder, but I have changed out the temp sensor and run 3 tanks of good gas with injector cleaner through it. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
No spark, no fuel but have pressure, Little or no ECM out to injectors. 1. Ground Black pin 2,or 11 12v on GY? (87 at IGn relay) YUP TESTED FINE a. coil checks in spec and passes test plugs and wires ok? YUP TESTED FINE Low voltage side resistance 0.5 - 0.7 Ohms High voltage side resistance5.5 ~ 7.5K Ohms YUP TESTED FINE b. no solenoid activity on injectors, Injectors get +12 v from ignition feed and Ground from ECM check ECM grounding. HAVE NOID LIGHT ON INJECTER PLUG AND NOTHING c. CP connects to the ECM directly and must have correct voltage 5 I believe, and ground. IF BY CP YOU MEAN CAM PICKUP, IT HAS THE 5V TESTED FINE. +1 bad ground close wiring inspection is required pay attention to the wiring connectors possible bad ecm ?? suggestion, start at source and work to loss of power. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
heres the progress so far...lol its a mess...  | ||
| Dnchevyman |
is there any way i can bypass the bank angle sensor? | ||
| Dnchevyman |
ok, now the check engine light is coming on and staying on. and im getting codes.. 11,13,15,33,44. it just keeps getting worse. i have another ecm that i got from a member of the board, its not helping or working. im thinking the codes are from the things ive been pulling off, testing, replacing and whatnot. uggghhh this thing might never run again. | ||
| Oldog |
11 tps volts out of range 13 o2 sensor input out of range 15 IAT input out of range 33 fuel pump disconnected 44 BAS input out of range Pins 2 and 11 ( ECM grounds are the same point electricaly ) make sure that they have a good ground. "NOID LIGHT"?? test and indicator light try using a METER roll the mill over by hand. the injectors are tied to +12v the ecm turns on the ground to open them same with the coil GY is +12v BE-O Y-BE are grounds for the primary circuits BAS input is expected to be about 1.1 volts so I dont think so, you may be able to make up a dummy load and test with it. IF you hav access to a lap top get a copy of VSDTS you can trouble shoot the problems as it has an injector and coil test feature, I may be in the Reno area in a few weeks.. on a job Like the paint ( can see the fender ) yes it will run again be patient... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/DDFITr oubleCodes/index.htm Throttle position sensor, Oxygen sensor, Intake air sensor, fuel pump, bank angle sensor. Don't freak out! It's probably just a loose connector. At least you have it talking now, eh? | ||
| Sparky |
Ever replace the ignition relay? If not, I'd check for +12 VDC into ECM pin, what is it, B1? gray. Note the gray wire also goes to the fuel pump, injectors and BAS. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
I FIIIXXXEEEEDDD ITTTTT!!!! 330am i finally got fuel and spark signals again!!!! i knew it was a bad wire, but everfything was testing out fine. so it cut all the wire loom off and tracing the green wire from the cam signal sensor. found a bad spot. spliced it together, soldered it up. good to go!!!!!! | ||
| Sparky |
Aaaha! The GREEN wire. Damn Sierra Clubbers! Glad you fixed it. I, for one, found out that an XB9R ECM, termination wise, is identical to the X1 except for a few wires: G8 veh speed sensor, G6 fan ctrl, G5 keep alive. Thx, oldog. How would you characterize the bad spot, broken wire inside normal looking insulation or mashed wire? | ||
| Iamike |
Dan, Good job, that's what I've been expecting to find but so far no luck. I was taking apart connectors and found two headed up to the front that had some corrosion. I cleaned everything up and restarted it, still runs bad. The running fuel pressure doesn't vary at all. I haven't tried the stock ECM yet so that is the next step. Maybe I'll find it soon enough. | ||
| Illeagle |
check your grounds main ground and on the battery cable they could be loose i replaced my coil in sturgis i wasnt getting spark on one cylinder then i checked the neg wire on the batt and it was somewhat loose that fixed it | ||
| Dnchevyman |
It was actually broken at the connector. what was happening was when i tested the wire, i pushed the voltmeter into the pin, therefor pushing the pin into the wire making a connection. but as soon as it was released, the wire pulled away from the pin. | ||
| Oldog |
Thx, oldog. Err you made the call, Thx Sparky Aaaha! The GREEN wire. Damn Sierra Clubbers!  Great to hear this Don ! The broken wire was at which connector? | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Gotta feel good now, dontcha? Glad to hear it worked out. | ||
| Dnchevyman |
it was broke at the connecter where the cam signal connects with the main harness. the 3 wire triangle connector under the batt tray. | ||
| Iamike |
Dan, Now that you have yours running would you try something for me? Start it up and run it at about 1,200rpm and disconnect the head temp sensor. When I do mine the only thing that happens is that it turns on my engine light. When I checked the resistance at room temp it was a little off for the actual temp. |
