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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through September 21, 2014 » M2 Performance Mods Wanted » Archive through April 02, 2014 « Previous Next »

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Mhlunsford
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2014 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2000 M2, vance and hanes exhaust, force winder intake, but was wondering what others have done in the way of real performance mods ?
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M2typhoon
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The best thing you'll mod on the bike is the suspension. Fork Springs, fork oil, TM rear shock or Penske.
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Jayvee
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

According to the dyno tests in the Knowledge Vault, after you've tuned the carb for those changes, the only thing left that keeps the torque band approximately the same shape but moves the line higher is bigger bores/pistons.
Everything else will move Torque up into the Horsepower range. Its easier to get more horsepower I think, like just add higher cam lobes, race header, headwork. Harder to keep the power at low rpm for some reason.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jayvee,
what is the best way to tune the carb for changes ?
Jet kit ?
or I was even considering a different carb ?
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Gusm2
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mikuni HSR
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Jayvee
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I meant just jetting changes. A whole other carburetor is nice option. Costs more.
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Lakes
Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mine is still, using a 2 inch collector stock headpipe with a restrictive sport muffler ( quite ) i have thunderstorm heads & pistons just had bottom of barrels decked to get swish band to 40thou but cranking pressure is high, went from the stockN4 cams to N6 and fitted a dyna adjustable inanition that mounts same as stock ignition module, just can change advance curve & it has a woods 43.5 Reble carb i already had from another bike i owned, i got the bike with the Carbon race air cleaner so left that as performs well.
is there any dyno info on a comparition 2 inch collector to 2 1/2 inch collector ?
bike was on my friends DJ250i once after the raised comp & had the woods carb but still had the Buell lightning ignition module & with n4 cams 2 inch pipe made 92 or 93HP 78 ft TQ have not had it on dyne with N6 cams & dyna ignition but it pulls strong from 3,000 to where i set rev limit at 6,500
just no idea what the power & tq look like. & wondering if a pipe change would gain much & where.
what pipe?
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never seen a dyno run where the collector changed from 2" to 2.5".
I assume it makes more power is why Buell changed to it. But didn't they also change the heads from Lightning to Thunderstorm at the same time?
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Lakes
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jayvee, i'm still learning Buell , but my M2 was an Australian import 2000, came stock with SE cams same as the Andrews N4 ( as i found out ) came stock with 2" pipe came with tall euro gearing. but the gearing on my one had been changed to US gearing i like the low gears myself as easy on bottom end.
i have been looking at pipes, can see D&D full system listed on American Sport Bike. are they good?
any other options you can think of?
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2014 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any recommended jet kits ?
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Lakes
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2014 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What carb do you have?
if it's stock CV the main tuning trick is the needle you use, if it idles ok & pulls ok from stand still when warm, pilot jet would be right but if it spits or hesitates. might need to change pilot jet i like the CV carb works great for me when it is jetted right. once its set right thats it never have to play with them.. so what carb do you have?
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2014 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jet kits sometimes are overkill. Usually it's the pilot jet goes up one or two; or the needle gets tiny washers to shim it up .040" to .050" (or both of these...)
And of course the Idle air mixture screw.
Jet kits can cost $100. Jets can be as little as $3.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2014 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want to make real power go here:

http://nrhsperformance.com/headworkbuell.shtml
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Buelliedan
Posted on Thursday, March 20, 2014 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

and here:

http://nrhsperformance.com/ekitbuell1200.shtml
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Jayvee
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, little bit of drooling...

He did say "real" performance mods

Original poster didn't mention a budget.
I really hope to get the big bore kit and etc stuff someday. Right now the tail is wagging the dog, if you know what I mean, I'm lucky to get a farkle
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic can send you some good info on CV carb jetting.

I use a 200 main jet a 48 pilot jet, a shim on the needle, and a slightly enlarged hole in the slide.

Works great.
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V74
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what dave 02 1200 said.
I bought my 1999 M2 brand new and put a v & h can, kuryakyn hypercharger and yost jet kit on it before I even rode it.
after running it in by the book I took it for its first service. on the way home I decided to open it up but it bogged down and wouldn't rev out, taking it steady I brought it home safe.
my research told me bigger main jet , once installed it was better but still a hint of lean , next size jet got it spot on.
but something was still not right , research again led me to one grade colder plugs before the where recommended as standard.
throttle response was a bit poor.taking the silicone plug out the voes and turning the adjuster 1 1/2 turns in improved throttle response.
I drilled the throttle silde and radiiased the edge but didn't notice much from that.
I do believe in routing the breather lines away from the air intake but some don't think this does much.
with the carb in place lift the slide up and see if there is a step from the carb to the manifold if yes just file to match the carb and with the manifold off smooth but dont polish the inside .theres casting marks in there that want removing.i also remember reading that polishing the outside helps , can't remember why but I think it had something to do with heat transfer???
on a low budget then swap the horn for a XB one and change the steel footpegs for aluminium ones will reduce weight by a kilo.
I also recommend light weight push rods as any weight off the valve train is a heip.
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V74
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

forgot to say if you adjust the voes make sure you re silicone it as it has to be air tight to operate correctly.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2014 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I still have the stock carb and it spits Sputters at low rpms.

The xb heads maybe someday the engine was just rebuilt before I got it so it will a be awhile.
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V74
Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2014 - 06:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

carb spitting/sputtering (what a wonderful word) could be from a number of things other than the carb, check manifold for leaks , exhaust leaks , plugs etc.
my bike used to spit and sputter in real hot weather in slow traffic, I put an oil cooler on it and never did it again but may not have anything to do with your symptoms.
I eventually put a mikuni hsr 42 on it got slight improvement in throttle response and was slightly less to turn the throttle to full ( want a quick action throttle but may mod the standard one instead) the cv is a good carb once set up for your bike, the mikuni is good for bragging about but wish I had spent the cash on something that did improve power not make it slightly more usable if you know what I mean.
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Splatter
Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2014 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your in need of a good shop for performance work and parts check out Cycle Rama. For one thing you won't catch them spamming on a forum peddling there stuff without paying for sponsorship 'cause their an ETHICAL company and have INTEGRITY unlike some others. Not only that but you'll get much better work from a true motor guy and not a hack salesman who knows nothin about motors.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Monday, March 31, 2014 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

not sure what your problem with me is Splatter but this "hack salesman" built the bike and the engine that set the fastest MP-G 1350cc pushrod record ever at Bonneville last year. That inlcudes both AMA and BNI. When you build a bike in that class that can exceed 170 mph at Bonneville let me know.

As for Cycle Rama, they are an excellent shop. You are correct about that.

(Message edited by buelliedan on March 31, 2014)

(Message edited by buelliedan on March 31, 2014)
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Splatter
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's about the fact that other companys PAY to advertise here so when you come in and SPAM the board your stealing from them and stealing from the board owner to.

Now maybe they dont care thats there business but I for one would never do business with a company so dishonest to think they can just come on a board and push there stuff and not have to pay.

You already got banned from hdf for doing this you trying for Bad Weather too?
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2014 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have spoken with Blake about sponsorship already. We are trying to come to an agreement about the value of being a sponsor on Badweb. So you are just being a loudmouth without knowing all the facts
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Splatter
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OH I get it it's okay to spam a board if you might make a deal to be a sponsor some day.

You know one thing I've learned over the years you can't explain integrity to someone who doesn't have any cause he just wont get it and it wont make any sense to him.
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Wesbuell
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 07:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyhow, back to the performance mods...
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, looked at some dyno printouts online. Starts to look like I don't know what I'm talking about. So ignore most of what I said, excepting bigger cc is better.
I too want 90 ft-lb at 3500 rpm. Just add $$.
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Lakes
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

to me bigger, does not always mean better. like i like to ride my M2. big motors can be great, but some vibrate a lot more & depends how you increase the displacement. strokers vibrate more & crank case pressure changes. a 1200cc v twin is big enough for me.
the 1250cc kit i've looked at looks good for the fact the barrel's are ticker so would , or should hold there round better ( seal better ).
but 50cc between two cylinders is not that much bigger.
i can't see the point, changing from 1200cc if all is well with the stock thunderstorm motor. my one the pistons where stock & cast to match thunderstorm chamber. but they did not come far enough up the bore to work as they were designed. so i had bottom of barrel machined to get 40 thou swish . but cranking pressure is high even with the N6 cams. still it starts easy & i get 98 octane at the pump, also use some VP C16.
i'm happy as its virtually stock with just heads rebuilt new rings n6 cams & dyna adjustable ignition , the one that looks like stock & bolts to same place as stock ignition.
i've been riding this every week for close to a year on this build love it. bike has close to 100,000 & runing great.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

wow, somebody really needs to get laid it seems. I am so tired of all the internet tough guys.
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S1owner
Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2014 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am installing the NHRS 1250 kit it was supplied by Dan great service by the way. Why am I doing this? Well i have it apart I am replacing the rockers and gaskets so I just said why not it will add a little not worried about how much. Its one way to add some power. If you want easier power intake and exhaust will help your motor breathe and pump which is the cheapest bang for your buck.
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