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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through April 26, 2013 » X1 front. Rake question. « Previous Next »

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Haaken
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2013 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is it possible to change the front brake pads without removing the wheel? As far as I can tell you have to, and unfortunately I don't have a front stand...
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Gusm2
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes it is, simple job to do but if your not mechanically minded best left to someone who is and you dont have to remove the wheel or jack it up

(Message edited by gusm2 on April 25, 2013)
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's a screw hiding the screw-in pin that holds the pads in place. If you look at the rear of the pads they each have a metal loop over a metal horizontal pin. That pin has to come out, and the head of that pin is covered my a little plug. Remove the pin, pull out the pads by those handy little loops. Some other little pieces will fall out, a spring and stuff, but just pay attention. Don't forget, you'll have to move the brake pistons back into the caliper in order for the new thicker pads to go in.
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Thylacine
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 07:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where's the rake question?
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Haaken
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 07:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 12:38 am:       
There's a screw hiding the screw-in pin that holds the pads in place. If you look at the rear of the pads they each have a metal loop over a metal horizontal pin. That pin has to come out, and the head of that pin is covered my a little plug. Remove the pin, pull out the pads by those handy little loops. Some other little pieces will fall out, a spring and stuff, but just pay attention. Don't forget, you'll have to move the brake pistons back into the caliper in order for the new thicker pads to go in."

Cool. I was hesitant to just pull the pads out since I was unsure of how I would compress the pistons in order to fit the pads over the rotor. I guess I could always just push it up against the rotor to compress them?
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Hybridmomentspass
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i dont think changing the pads will affect your rake at all, so thats one less thing to worry about
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ha ha he meant brake, but said rake, ha ha that's funny to me...

Seriously though, Jayvee is spot on! Do you have a shop manual? PM me for a copy if you need one.
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Haaken
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Ha ha he meant brake, but said rake, ha ha that's funny to me...

Seriously though, Jayvee is spot on! Do you have a shop manual? PM me for a copy if you need one."

I usually post using my iPad, and let me tell you, I hate this thing...it always changes what I am trying to type and sometimes I just miss what it tries to correct...

I do not have a shop manual as of yet. Anyone have tips for compressing the pistons into the caliper once I pull the old pads out? That is my main question. The brakes themselves are so simple to change.
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Download shop manual here.

www.carlsalter.com
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well with the pads out you should be able to unbolt the caliper and remove it. Then you can compress the pucks back in. Remove the brake master cylinder cover and watch your brake fluid level, then top off if needed.

Remount the caliper and slide the pads back in and bolt up the pin and install the little screw cover.
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Kevmean
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once the pads are out there should be no need to even remove the caliper , just gently prise the pistons back into the caliper, some school of thought say it is best to release the excess fluid from the bleed nipple as you do but most people just allow it back to the master cylinder and as pointed out just make sure it doesn't overflow if you do.
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Mr_grumpy
Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2013 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What I do is ease the pads out half way & then use a flat tool like an open end spanner twisting between the old pads to push all the pistons back in.
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2013 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's 2 bolts... Seems like more work to not remove the caliper. Besides, a visual inspection and cleaning is always in order.

But then thats just me, I tend to lean toward overkill.
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Jumbo_petite
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2013 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With a pair of Channel Locks (tongue and groove pliers) ,once you have removed the pin and hardware from the pads/caliper you can gently squeeze one brake to push the pistons back in. then install the new pad on that side the use the pliers to squeeze the old brake and pistons back on the other side and install the new pad in after for that side.

After installing new pads ALWAYS!!!! operate the brakes until you have a firm level/pedal. It will take a couple of squeezes to get the brake pads to their position.

(Message edited by jumbo petite on April 26, 2013)
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Haaken
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2013 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, i got the pads changed. Thanks for the help guys. For some reason i was thinking the pads had to come out of the opposite end of the caliper...IDK, thats what I get for doing the majority of my work after I get off of work...
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