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Triman023
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a new noise from my S2T. When I slow down to a stop and use a moderate amount of engine braking, I hear a screeching noise from the front of the bike. If I pull in the clutch and stop there is no noise. I just recently got new tires and replaced the back wheel due to a spun bearing, the mech told me that the front bearings are fine. This bike has 29K on the clock so I am thinking it might be a bad primary tensioner, the clutch is working fine.
I have never pulled the clutch cover so any advice appreciated as to what to get and check in there. Doesn't look to tough to do, (his last words), and yes I have the shop manual.
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Jersey_thunder
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

only when your rolling?
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M2typhoon
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a tensioner to me. Have you ever had the primary open or inspected? The mileage is almost a dead give away. American Sport Bike would have a tensioner if you need one. You may need to inspect the chain. Metal+metal=nothing good. Be prepared to change out the chain and fluid too.

(Message edited by m2typhoon on March 04, 2011)
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Triman023
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it only happens when rolling to a stop. If I roll to a stop with front brake and engine slowing I get the screech. If I roll to a stop, pull in the clutch early and just use the brake, no noise.
Is the chain a bear to change?
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Essmjay
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Easy to change the chain as long as you have a big ass socket and a cheater bar. Just remember- Left hand Threads!!
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Friday, March 04, 2011 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

200something foot pounds and red loctite when that thing gets installed IIRC? yeah.. you're in for a grand old time : p
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Kenm123t
Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AIR POWER guys the only way to the primary apart ! easier quicker
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before you start tearing into your motor...check your rear drive belt and make sure it has plenty of slack in it.(2") A tight belt will make your counter shaft bearing whine. Just something I've encountered, easy check before you take off in another direction.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought air tools were very bad for the primary and alternator magnets?
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 04:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A air impact tool is a fancy hammer ...
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, March 05, 2011 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Air or hammer, not a good idea at all.
Magnets HATE impacts either from a gun or hammer.
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Triman023
Posted on Sunday, March 06, 2011 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, we tore into it today, the tensioner is worn but serviceable, found slight wear on the top of the case from chain slap. The chain look in excellent shape though no visible damage. Put in the new style tensioner and put it back together.
Test ride and the noise is exactly the same.
After mulling THAT over I pulled the air cleaner off and rode it again, noise almost gone.
Replaced the intake seals and a vacuum hose that had come loose, will see to late to ride now.
Won't be removing that primary chain anytime soon...
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, March 07, 2011 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you replace the SPRING PLATE(aka GRENADE PLATE) PN 37077-90 ???

If you want the "INFO" on this PREVENTIVE MAINTEANCE/PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT, just PM me for a copy ...
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Triman023
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The screech is BACK! Rode to work and there it is just the same. At least i have new intake seals (James) and a tensioner. I am stumped. It only happens when I use engine braking and stops when I pull the clutch in. The clutch is working fine, no dragging grabbing. It is helping me avoid engine braking....

And no metal in the trans oil.
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Psyclown
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry to hear. Maybe if you got a video of it we could be of more assistance.
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just a thought...Check the torque on the crank nut.
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M2typhoon
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 06:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, so you took the air cleaner off and the noise was not so bad. Hmmm. what kind of air cleaner? It's starting to sound like the engine is sucking air thru the carb slide and creating this noise upon engine braking and when you put the cleaner on it, the noise amplifies. Does it still make the noise with throttle slightly cracked? Has the carb ever been rebuilt or modified? Trying to brainstorm here.
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Triman023
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will try it again today with the air cleaner off. This is the California model and has the Edelbrock carb. I have had Edelbrock rebuild this carb about 6 months ago, it runs quite well.The noise is eliminated when I pull in the clutch lever. Throttle position has no effect. I have an appointment with Glendale Harley so will report on what they find.
I fear its a bearing.

Thanks for trying to figure out my weird problem.
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Onahog
Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2011 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An engine bearing would make more noise under load...You sure you dont have some brake drag or so and dont hear it under load?..or, rear belts can make some crazy sounds, and will be different under coast or load...Try a squirt of wd40 on the belt edge where it runs again the rear pulley..
My bagger lotsa times sounds like a bir is stuck in there...especially when riding in rain...just a few more 2cents worth for ya...
good luck..Hb
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Triman023
Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The thing that drives me nuts (like I am not already) is that when i pull in the clutch the noise stops. This tells me it has something to do with the engine load being transferred through the transmission. I just dont know enough about the transmission to understand where the sound is coming from. It has to do with engine breaking. the brake lever has no effect on the noise, only the clutch. The bike acts normally except for this stupid noise.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IMHO, if the noise goes away when the clutch is pulled "i" would look at the clutch plates ???
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My money says it's got something to do with what was last worked on. New tires(belt adj.)Shops always adj. too tight.Easy check and easy fix. If not that them something related, cocked wheel, tire to big for clearance,etc. If it only does it moving, then odds are it's not the motor.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Under engine braking, the slack in the belt moves from the bottom to the top. Is it rubbing on the swingarm or belt-guard?
Can you ride with a passenger who could listen better for the area the noise comes from?
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Triman023
Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put the S2 on stands Sunday and looked all over, the front belt pulley nut appears undisturbed, and no missing teeth or chafing on the belt. Took it in to the dealer today and got the two surly guys. One said "you have an old bike and its a Buell, it may take a long time to get parts". The other one grunted a few times and took my information. Hopefully I will get a call tomorrow. When I bought the bike the service was attentive, now its like a bunch of petulant 11 year olds that have to do chores. Really great salesmanship...
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is one of the main reasons that most of us work on our own bikes. You don't have to be a great mechanic to work on your own bike, just follow the manual and pay attention to detail and you will be getting better service than what their going to give you.
Before you know it you will have a better understanding of how your bike works and may actually enjoy working on it.
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Lager
Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

" you have an old bike and its a Buell, it might take a long time to get parts"

In "dealer mechanic speak" this means?
We really dont want to look at your bike. We have lots of chrome orders that came in and thats where the money is at.
You might want to find yourself a good independent V- Twin shop that needs your money.
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Kalali
Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To be honest, if I heard that from my local dealer mechanic, I would turn around and go elsewhere. They can do more harm by trying to fix your current issue. But that's just me...
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