| Author | Message | ||
     5liter |
Mine went bad so I changed it. Just before I changed it I rode the bike. When I got home and took the key out, the switch was REALLY hot. Anyone ever experience that with their switch? | ||
| Fasted |
short-> heat-> burnt out switch excessive heat is often a sign of impending electrical failure | ||
| Kyrocket |
Mine went bad and just to get it started a few times as I finished rebuilding it I put on a rocker switch. I figured it would get hot but it never did and I still have the switch on it. I've read where others have put in a relay to not run so much current through it to keep the heat down. I still would like to put in a hidden toggle and just keep the key out all together. Maybe put in a clock where the key cylinder was. | ||
| Hootowl |
"short-> heat-> burnt out switch " The heat is not from a short. If the contacts were shorted (they're supposed to be when the contacts are closed) it wouldn't generate heat. The heat is a result of current and resistance. The contacts are either burned, which creates resistance, or the contacts aren't able to handle the current and are heating up, which I suspect is the case given the failure rate of the switch. | ||
| Buellistic |
If you have a "HIGH RESISTANCE" open, ie: loose +12V connection you will get "HEAT" !!! Same applies to a loose GROUND !!! Check the TIGHTNESS" of the wires connecting to the SWITCH(could be the contacts in the switch) ... "SHORTS" to ground blow fuse'es or across a CKT./GRD. side of a CKT., make things work that are not supposed to be working ... | ||
| 5liter |
What's the failure rate on the stock switch? My original gave out at about 13,000 miles. This one lasted until 48,000 miles. | ||
| Fasted |
i stand corrected....what i should have said is there is a short and/or a burnout waiting to happen. tho my terminology is incorrect, the end result is likely to be blown fuse, burnt switch, or both. bottom line is imminent failure if not diagnosed correctly and fixed or replaced | ||
| Rick_a |
Mine is set up so that it sits upside-down under the tank and the key can be removed in the "on" position. I found that water/dirt intrusion along with the vibration of the key will slowly kill it. I cleaned out the original until the tumblers fell out of it! It doesn't, and has never gotten hot. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
High current, current that is either at the limit for the switch or maybe even more than the switch was designed for creates the heat which in turn burns out the switch. Lower the current and the switch will not get hot and will last much longer. When mine failed I took it apart, cleaned it, reassembled it, and most importantly, added a relay to handle the heavy current. So now the switch only switches the relay on and I am still using the original 11 year old switch with the original matching key some 3-4 years after the initial failure. Cheap and easy permanent fix if you ask me! | ||
| Hootowl |
I did the same thing Scott, and I'm still using my old burnt-contact switch too. Works good enough to keep a relay on. | ||
| 5liter |
How would you wire the relay? | ||
| Buellistic |
1997 S3T and 109,451.2 miles as of the last ride ... Only because "i" am the only one that touches my key !!! | ||
| Kalali |
"When mine failed I took it apart, cleaned it, reassembled it" I was under the impression that the ignition switch was not "serviceable". So it can actually be opened up and cleaned (and put back together of course)? | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I was under the impression that the ignition switch was not "serviceable". it isn't in the sense that there are no replacement parts for what's inside, but if you drill out the rivets it will open up - be careful to note where everything goes before it all comes apart! How would you wire the relay? As noted I did mine several years ago and don't remember the exact wiring into and out of the switch, but basically you run the existing wires through the relay as if the relay is the ignition. Then you jumper the positive side to the existing ignition switch and the output of the ignition switch to the control side of the relay. When you turn on the ignition it energizes the relay, closing it and making the connection. Since the high current draw now goes through the relay, all your ignition switch does is energize the relay - which only requires a very small amp draw. Easy-Peasy! ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) |
