Author |
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Rlgiv
| Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 10:56 pm: |
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99 s3t Brake rotor on front tire is loose. All of the fasteners that connect the inner hub to the rotor are tight. I brought it up to the stealership and the tech thinks it may be some worn out springs in the fasteners? I made an appointment for them to look at it but if anybody here can get me pointed in the right direction hopefuly they won't be needed. |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 11:34 pm: |
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Loose as in it wiggles a little bit on the carrier? If so, that's normal - it's a floating rotor. Measure the thickness and compare it to what's stamped on the rotor. See the sponsors here for a replacement. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 12:30 am: |
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There are two main pieces, and two sets of bolts. First piece, the carrier. It's the "middle" part, that bolts to the wheel. It uses the first set of bolts. The carrier should be tight to the wheel, no play or wiggle at all. Second piece, the rotor itself - the part the brake pads actually swipe. It mounts to the carrier, with (depending on generation) either five, six, or ten fasteners. I think. I know there are different numbers, but it's late and I'm tired... You'll note the use of the word "fastener" - not all generations use actual bolts. Some use a form of rivet that is not replaceable. The ones that do use bolts, are arranged like this - bolt head, wave washer, brake parts, wave washer, locking nut. These wave washers ("springs", if you will) allow the rotor to 'float' side-to-side a little bit. Side to side wiggle is normal. Rotational wiggle - or wiggle in the direction of the wheel rotation - is NOT normal. This indicates the round holes that the screws go through are no longer round, but oval shaped. This, needs replacement of the rotor and carrier (and all mounting hardware if you do it exactly by the book). Side to side wiggle if you grab it and move it, is normal. Side to side wiggle that causes a death rattle while the bike is sitting at idle...not normal. But, that's an easy fix - replace the wave washers. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 09:26 am: |
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Sounds like you have the ORIGINAL OEM ROTOR, if so get a NEW ONE ... www.AmericanSportBike.com has them !!! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 09:55 am: |
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Aye, the 99 rotor sucked. Get the 2000-2003 if your pocketbook allows. On the other hand, if it's just rattling, and you can live with the noise, there's no reason to replace it. I didn't like the noise, so I got a new one. |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 10:35 am: |
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Mine is the opposite - it has no play no matter how hard I try to "wiggle" it. Should I worry about it?! |
Jramsey
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 02:12 pm: |
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Nope. The tighter the better. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 11:14 pm: |
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Actually...you do want to fix a rattle. That's a sign of too much play in the mounts, and it can turn quickly into egged mounting holes. Clearances are clearances; you don't want to be too loose or too tight. Kalali, grab an old toothbrush and some brake cleaner (be careful of your wheels!) and scrub your mounting hardware really good. You should have minute wiggle in it, maybe a couple thousandths, to indicate that it's floating properly. |
Zenbiker
| Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 12:07 am: |
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There are 3 versions of tuber front rotors. The first was on the S2 and maybe the first year of S1. The rotor overlapped the carrier, but not in the same plane, they were bolted to the outside of the carrier. They were rumored to have rotor cracking problems on the drill holes, so they were reved to the second style. The second was the "wave washer" rotor, which it sounds like you have (they suck). The third is the proffered style, it is identified by 'solid circle washers' holding the carrier to the rotor. This last one is the one you want (if you don't want an EBC or Braking Wave rotor). |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 09:32 am: |
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Add more WASHER,front brake rotor H-D/BUELL PN 6201Y(BUELLschitte PN BA148.9SS) to where it does not move or buy a new rotor} !!! |
Rlgiv
| Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 07:53 pm: |
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thanks alot for all the responses. Once again ya'll are proving why this is the best Buell board on the net. Im sure that it is an "egged" rotor. Think I am gonna go with the ebc replacement. Founf it for about 200 on ebay. |
Fahren
| Posted on Friday, June 25, 2010 - 01:59 pm: |
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EBC Prolite - mmmmm. And you can save a coupla dollars by buying XB rear rotor bolts, instead of the spendy tuber bolts. |
Rlgiv
| Posted on Saturday, June 26, 2010 - 07:55 am: |
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ok.........thanks |
Michelangelo
| Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 03:30 pm: |
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I'm curious on this thread as my S-1W front brake rotor makes an awfully loud rattle when at low, crawling speeds of 5-10 mph or less. I think it is the rotor carrier buttons (bolts) or whatever you call it that attaches the rotor to the carrier. I was seeing the above P/N, will that allow me to simply upgrade the bolts rather than purchase a whole new rotor? Money is tight, just lost my job. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 07:49 pm: |
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Yes, the part number above is the washer I talked about in the other thread. Good thing it's here too - I forgot the OEM S2 rotor didn't have them, just the first round of recall rotors, so no number in the parts book |
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