| Author | Message | ||
     Elpanameno |
Looking in my manual, it says that i need to use a piston ring sleeve compressor to put the pistons back into the cylinders. These things are expensive! Any suggestions on how to go about getting one cheaper or to do it with another tool that could be bought at autozone or something?? | ||
| Oldskoolef |
This kind works and they are cheap too. They aren't the best but are sufficient. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Tools-21700-W rinkle-Band-Ring-Compressor_W0QQitemZ260160948558Q QcmdZViewItem?hash=item260160948558&_trksid=p3286. m20.l1116 | ||
| Aaomy |
another thing that i have done in the past is use .020 shim stock to wrap around piston then used a worm drive hose clamp. to compress the shim stock down around the piston.. dont know if i would recommend it but like i said,, have done it in the past.. hope this helps.. | ||
| Bobo |
I do it by hand with no issues. If the bottom of the sleeve is tapered it is even easier. | ||
| Oldskoolef |
Bobo is right, the last one I did by hand too. The bottom of the bore is chamfered so the rings go in easy. Do be careful though, if a ring comes out of its groove, it can be easily bent. Sometimes a compressor just gets in the way. | ||
| Buellboiler |
Look guys, there is no reason not to borrow/rent a ring compressor when installing a piston set. It doesn't have to be a Snap-On tool, it can be an inexpensive tool. I can torque a bolt without a torque wrench but that doesn't mean that it is the right way to do the job. I believe that our Buells deserve the right tools to get the job don't you? | ||
| Danny_h__jesternut |
Go to Home Depot, buy yourself a large hose clamp 4" works jest fine.(very cheep) Snug it jest slightly, enough to stay but loose enough to slide as you lower the jug down over the rings. Simply unscrew the clamp all the way out for removal. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
You can use hose clamps  Are you aware of the ring gap positioning? Where does the top ring gap go? Towards intake at about 1 30 o clock Second towards exh. about 7 30 o clock and the oil ring gaps stay close to each other with a slight stagger and I point those up towards intake as well. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
I believe that our Buells deserve the right tools to get the job don't you? I guess I shouldn't mention that a Buell employee (a driveline engineer actually) used no special tool (other than a torque wrench) when we built my S1's motor, 4 hands did make it easier to do the rings though ... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Experience and repetition can make even the most difficult job become "second nature". I can do a "lift and slip" headgasket replacement on my 2.2 turbo Dodge bracket car in less than 30 minutes in the dragstrip pits, but that doesn't make it the right way to do it. For the newbie...get the tool. See how it happens when it's done "right", so you know when you're going "wrong" during improvisation. | ||
| Buellboiler |
So was his name McGiver????? Were you stranded in the middle of Siberia? I didn't say that it couldn't be done. It is a simple matter of *should* it be done. I was raised on the farm so I can do what it takes to get the job done, if required. I'm glad that it has worked for you. As for me I will invest in the small amount to rent/buy the proper tools. I guess I'm just silly that way.  | ||
| Elpanameno |
and the winner is....... hose clamps. Easy (even for a newbie like myself) and cheap. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Buellistic |
NOW THIS IS a BUELLer(Daniel) that thinks out of the "BOX" !!! Shawn check out www.BuellClub.com ... In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on February 14, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
well, its good to know that im not the only owner in the state... i never see a buell in north florida... |
