| Author | Message | ||
     Kodas |
X1lightning - The problem may not be bad gas, are you getting an error code when the bike refuses to start? Couple of weeks ago I was running on reserve, stopped & bought some cheap gas for my 99 S3T at the nearest station I could find. The bike initially started then stalled and refused to start again. I'd wait a few minutes and try to start the bike again; it would start sometimes and run for a few seconds then quit. At first I was sure it was bad gas, but after repeated restart attempts while waiting for a tow the ECM finally indicated an error via check engine light. Turned out I had and error 33-fuel pump issue. I inspected the most likely cause infamous connector 86 (below tank, left side of bike hanging near rear cylinder head spark plug)and found an obvious intermittent connection. Once thoroughly cleaned the bike started and ran like a champ. Here's a link on how to check for the error codes. Even if the bike is currently running the old codes are stored unless you have a dealer clear 'em or start and run the bike 50 times for three minutes. Dunno if the 99 X1 has DDFI & a similar harness layout and ECM but most S3 starting issues I've experienced that seem to go away only to reappear at an inopportune moment turn out to be bad/dirty connectors or faulty sensors(kick stand or bank angle). Most of the time the ECM figures out and displays a useful error code but not always... Good luck! | ||
| Corndogge |
Captain you have good taste --I myself have a blue M2 and had a Duster (just a 318, sigh).  | ||
| Captainkirk |
Why...thank you. There is something of a Hemi 'Cuda inside of every Buell. The fact that you bought a blue M2 speaks volumes to me of your taste, and the Duster tops it. And "Just a 318?" I'll have you know that back in '78 I was running "Just a 318" in the car while my 340 was out for repairs. "Just a 318" with Holley 500 2 barrel and hi-po exhaust manifolds into dual exhaust blew away some punk kid on a Triumph Bonneville 650. Surprised the •••• out of both of us........  | ||
| Captainkirk |
Corndogge, FYI, there's a stock header on ebay item # 2482252185 and a D&D slip on item # 2482382514 which oughta fix you up great if you're still looking. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
This past Sunday, I attempted to install a "new" Mikuni HSR42 on my M2. All was well until I went to install the cables. Damned if both weren't too long! A quick check of the parts list showed two different part numbers fot the cable bracket. One for Sportster/Buells the other for TC motors. Guess which my carb had.. A quick call to the Fox distributer in WI verified my suspicions. The correct bracket is less than $20. Since the carb was off a TC, I also had them throw in the stock main, pilot and accellerator pump jet. Less then $32.00 including shipping. Just wish I was closer to the Wilson Ranch for a good dyno tune when I'm done... Brad | ||
| Socoken |
Brad, let me know how it goes, im THIS close to going Mikuni myself. thanks Ken | ||
| Corndogge |
Thanks cap'n, but now I'm into new trouble. I got the old streetfighter welded and and slapped it back on -- til it breaks or gets closer to Biketoberfest. Riding fine, right? Wrong. Would you believe on just my second trip on the thing (and man it was running sweet) after a short stint at highway speeds I got stuck in 5th. Had to lug it all the way home and haven't been able to fix it. What luck! I had just installed the updated tensioner so I checked it out and everything seemed fine. I ran a search in the all knowing vault and figured it's probably bad dogs or rusted bearings or something I don't want to get into. I'll probably wind up dropping it off at HD Daytona unless someone has a magical cure. Oh well. I guess this is why so many people have buellsss. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That is exactly the scenario Hoser indicated is usually that snarled up 5th gear drive assembly. If you just want to find out, you can pretty easily pop off that seal built into the end of it, it is exposed right there under the front belt sprocket. It's like 3 bolts to remove the cover, then punch a screwdriver through the middle of the seal, and pull it out with needle nose. Replacement seals are cheap. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Corndogge; Also check your shift drum detent plate. If that little clip that holds the detent plate on came off you might not be able to downshift.That's what happened to me. It's visible with a mirror (just barely) with the primary cover off-at least you can see if it's mounted straight, which is an indication of whether or not to pull the primary sprocket and clutch basket. Check what Reep said first though. If you decide to pull the primary and need guidance post and I'll walk ya through it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aye Aye Kirk... thats a good point. Could be as simple as that detente plate as well. | ||
| Corndogge |
Check this out. I was looking at the online s1 manual and noticed something... after I pulled the primary to do the initial tensioner swap I found a spring on the garage floor. I immediately checked the service manual to see if it belonged to the bike, but I didn't see it anywhere in the diagram. ASSuming it came from somewhere else I forgot about it. I just found it -- it looks just like the one that links to the detent arm. Don't know how it came off. Am I correct in thinking that is my problem? | ||
| Captainkirk |
Very well could be. I saw mine drop out of the corner of my eye and spent 5 minutes crawling around under the Handy Lift 'til I found it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Without that spring, you won't be shifting for long. That would explain it. Have a new detent plate clip on hand, don't reuse the old one. Great news, thats the cheapest and easiest problem you could have had! | ||
| Gixxer851 |
Help! I've just bought my first Buell day before yesterday and I'm having problems already  I've searched through the vault and picked up a few ideas, but anyone's thoughts would help. I'm pretty sure it's something simple, I'll try and tell you as much as I can. The bike is a 2002 X1W, (race header and muffler, race ecm, race air filter) with around 2000km on it. It was used by it's first owner for track days and has only recently had all the road gear put back on, so it could be a loose connector somewhere... I rode the bike from Sydney back home to Brisbane yesterday (around 1000km - I'm pretty tired now!). A bit over halfway the bike started to miss/stumble on small throttle openings, I thought I was running out of fuel or had picked up dirty fuel. Refueled, problem appeared about 20 minutes later. The missing appeared intermittently for a while, progressively getting worse. Eventually the ecm light on the dash came on, the missing stopped and the bike ran ok (seemed to feel a bit different - limp home mode I guess?). After a while the light would go off, the bike would run normally, then it would start missing again, then the ecm light would come back on and it would run ok in the "limp" mode again... this cycle repeated the rest of the way home. At one stage it ran normally for about 30 minutes, I stopped to have a stretch, when I got back on the it started the cycle again. Ecm light comes on for four seconds when ignition is turned on, then goes out. The bike starts and idles normally, problem only appears when riding. I'm guessing it's an IAT or ET problem - either bad connection or slowly failing. I've found the IAT hanging in the airbox (no snorkel - is this ok?), but don't know where the ET is to check the connection. Can someone tell me where the ET is? I can't find the diagnostics connector around the steering head to check the fault codes, but there is a four-pin connector with a black cap under the seat. Did they move it to the seat for 2002? Or should I keep looking under the tank? Any help would be much appreciated  (PS When it's running properly, it's an AMAZING motorcycle - I love it!) | ||
| Gixxer851 |
Connector under the seat is the diagnostics connector on my bike (Thanks Davefl ). I've got fault code 14, so it looks like it's the ET sensor playing up. Can someone tell me where it lives? | ||
| Gixxer851 |
Found it  Looks like it was just the bullet connector to the ET sensor, cleaned the connector and pushed all the way back together, bike seems to run fine now  | ||
| Nemo |
Bread-box has got to go. I want to change to a "sportster" type air filter. Carb has been re-jetted (4 years now) to specs noted at top of page. Exhaust, stock header with D&D slip-on. Will I need to re-jet to run "sportster" type air filter. If so any suggestions? Thanks for the advise. | ||
| Lowelltroll |
I noticed the post about Mikuni's and too long throttle cables...I bought a brand new Mikuni for Sportster/Buell and the cable is adjusted all the way out with still 1/4 turn before the carb starts to open. I'm thinking I somehow got the wrong bracket? Or did I install/route cables wrongly? Any suggestions? Thanks, Lloyd | ||
| Davefl |
You might can do a search for more info but you will have to bend the bracket some to make it fit. I had the same problem when I put a Mikuni on my M2. It has been so long ago I am a little fuzzy on the details but I got the info here. | ||
| Orion1 |
Lowelltroll: I just put a Mikuni on my M2 and the stock throttle cables adjusted out fine, although they are now adjusted out about as far as they will go. Maybe yours have stretched? I noticed one of mine was a little frayed & I need to replace it. What "bracket" are you talking about? | ||
| Smadd |
You can clip the ends and buy ferrells (sp?) that slide over and clamp down on the cable, thus making the cable as short as you like. Just make sure you buy the right size ones. The cable will *just* fit through the hole... but not at all if frayed. You will need to clip the cable right at the end, and as cleaning as possible. Steve | ||
| Lowelltroll |
There's two different cable brackets on the parts list, #19 and #19A. One for Sportster and one for BT's I guess. I doubt the cable is stretched. I just bought last Aug. w/ 2300 miles on it, a blue '00 M2. There was a post here in June about the different brackets. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I'll post pictures of both brackets as soon as I get a chance. I hope to put the my Mukini on this weekend (Sunday). Brad | ||
| Socoken |
i have an 01 M2 with bolt in (N8) cams, V&H, adjustable ignition, and gutted airbox with K&N. anyone with similar mods do a swap to Mikuni? i also have the thunderslide mod done to my cv, and like the throttle response, but it would seem that the mik would be substantially better. anyone have any experience sending a CV in to a carb shop for professional mods like Trock cycles? TIA Ken | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Troll.., I will post tonight when I get home from work. I left my CF card reader at work over the weekend. No way to get pics out of camara! Brad | ||
| Bluelightning |
Ken, You can do the mods yourself and save you a few dollars. I shaved and recontoured/polished my stock slide a bit, as the thunderslide is typically too light. Make sure you change and set your jets as set them (at least as a base) at the jet settings listed at the top of this page. The Mikuni is better, but for the $$, I'll stick with my CV for now. | ||
| Bluelightning |
As a matter of fact. Check this link for how to rebuild your stock CV: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm Just use the 45 and 195 jets to start. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Lloyd, Here's the picture of the two cable brackets for the HSR 42 Mikuni. The one on the left is the big motor version for the TC motors etc. The one on the right is the Sportster/Buell version. Note the longer cable ferrels on the Buell version.  | ||
| Captainkirk |
Ken, You can find the HSR42-11 kit on ebay every day from Eastern Performance for around $275.00. With all the other mods you've done, don't waste your time. | ||
| Fpatton |
Hello - I'm having a problem with my '01 M2. It's got the gutted airbox, carb mods as listed at the top of this section, and V&H, otherwise stock. Every couple hundred miles or so, it will start stumbling, like it's running out of gas. I'm usually on the freeway, so I get over in case it dies out right. After about a minute or so of coughing and stumbling, it clears up and rides perfectly. I noticed this morning that it was not running its usual smooth self at freeway speeds for about 10 minutes before the stumbling started. I've search the KV, and can't find any clues about what might be happening. I'm not building up vacuum in the tank from a clogged vent. Any ideas? Thanks! Fred |
