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984gasm
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

can anyone tell me what the size of the nut is to remove the axle? Not near my bike and need to buy tool to remove. Thanks
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Sik_s
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Unless yours is lost, the bike comes with one in your tool bag.
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984gasm
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yeah, but I need to buy a long wrench to take it off because it's frozen on.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Assuming that we are talking about removing the axle on something like a 2004 XB9S, and that you know by now that there aren't any nuts on the axle, I guess the tool you might be looking for is either in your on-board tool kit,( looks like a nut with a washer in the middle), or if it is not, you could use a 7/8" allen wrench if you can find one.

If you are going to get fancy and use a torque wrench, the values for the front pinch bolts is twenty pounds, the axle itself is forty foot pounds. In the rear, the pinch bolt gets forty and the axle gets fifty.
ssa

7/8" allen wrench
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984gasm
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sorry, I am talking about the nut that comes in the tool case of my 04xb9s to fit in the axle. I want to buy a longer wrench to get some leverage on it.
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Sik_s
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well then you need a socket and a breaker bar and maybe a 6 foot galvanized steel pole that you can pick up from your Home Depot. You will need a size 7/8" socket to go on the locknut that comes in the toolkit.
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Sik_s
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OBTW, ensure you follow the removal and installation using your service manual, but also ensure you put anti-seize on the axle before reinstalling too to prevent this from happening again.
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984gasm
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, I bought anti-sieze.. Apparentely the shop that changed my tires before had not.. That's why I'm doing it myself now.. Thanks for the info Sik s, that's exactly what I needed..
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Sik_s
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't thank me, thank Gentleman_Jon, I just went out to my toolkit to verify the size.
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Rhun
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Buy a hex headed spark plug socket. There are more than one size. Get the one that the hex nut will fit into the reversed nut in the axle. We are not talking about the end of the socket you would slip over the spark plug but the other end where you can use a wrench on it. Now put your 3/8th drive extension in the wrong end of the socket so that it is inside the socket, attach your rachet or break-over bar and put the nut end in the axle reverse nut end and loosen the nut. If you are doing the front axle remember you have to turn as if you are tightening to take it off as it is left hand threaded.
The assembly sequence rachet, extension, reversed spark plug socket, reversed nut on axle. This socket is available everywhere, Just make sure the hex end is the right size and that is built so that the extension will go into both ends as some have a square hole (drive) on one side and a round hole on the other. You can't use that style.
For a small fortune Buell makes a special tool also. The local Buell dealer uses what I described, not the special tool.
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984gasm
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about I just thank everyone.. You guys really helped me out
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Dcmortalcoil
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Make sure that if you are taking off the front axle - it's a lefty/reverse thread - you turn clockwise turn to loosen the front axle. Follow the arrow embossed on the fork leg.

Sorry - its repeat of the message above.

(Message edited by dcmortalcoil on June 25, 2006)
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Buckinfuell
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 05:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I got the Craftsman 18" Slide Bar Handle with 3/4" socket driver and a 7/8" socket to match. It works great when removing the rear axle on my XB12S.

Sears item #00904443000 Mfr. model #4443
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Buckinfuell
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is a photo of what I am talking about... the 3/4" driver slides up and down along the 18" bar. It's great for the initial breaking loose the axle (driver at end of bar) and subsequent rotations (with the driver in the middle) to relieve tension from the belt or to remove the axle completely.

Craftsmen 18" Slider Bar Handle
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Cmm213
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey everyone I put new tires on about a month ago and followed my torque specs per manuel- I would advise on not tightening the rear pinch bolt as tight as the book says. I set my wrench to 38 #'s and started to spin the threads, and it was lubed with anti sieze. I am not happy with some of the machining on these bikes
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984gasm
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, I've been hearing alot about not tightening to exact specs on certain areas because it is too excessive.. Not sure where to apply that to, but now I will usually bring it down a half pound or a little more, hopefully that is enough??
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Sik_s
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Cmm213, what did you do to fix the stripped threads for the pinch bolt?
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Buckinfuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 05:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cmm213,

Have you had your torque wrench calibrated/checked recently? I am really surprised that tightening the rear axle pinch bolt to less than the specified torque would damage the threads. The manual actually calls out 40-45 ft-lbs. The last time I reinstalled the axle, I was actually surprised at how little "pinch" was required. Also, you shouldn't need to use anti-seize on the pinch bolt, only the axle.
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