Author |
Message |
Mikerocket
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 12:08 am: |
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I was driving last night. I have to admit the headlight sucks!! I like to get a headlight that has more watts. I am not sure what the stock 03 XB9s ones are, but can I get more watt headlights? If so whats the model# ? Also I notice on like CBRs and Ninja bikes they run dual headlights. I notice on my xb9s (2003) that it has 2 lights, but one is use for regular lamp and the other is just for brights. I love to see if there is anyway to hook both headlights up to run together? Any idea/suggestions. I want more light to see, but better yet be more visual to other cars on the road. Thanks!! |
Eat_a_duc
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 12:26 am: |
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Mikerocket. I have an XB12S and thought the same thing when I first rode the bike at night. The bulbs on the XB12S are an (H7) and should be the same as the XB9S. What I did was go to the local Autozone and purchaced a couple of Phillips Zenon white light bulbs of the same watage. They cost about $23.00 each but they made a big difference. Went with the same watt bulb that came out (stock) as per others recommendations because they get quite hot and could start melting things if you up the watts too much. Shop around and you may find the bulbs cheaper than I did and they make them in all kinds of colors. My neighbor has a bright amber lamp in his.... looks cool but does't work worth a darn at night. |
Mdm
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 07:13 am: |
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Try Osram Silver Star H7 (not the silver stars you get at autozone). I replaced the lights in my cars and bike (all H7). I bought them @ powerbulbs.com Noticable difference, zenon they are not. MDM |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 08:49 am: |
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How do you get the headlights open on the XBS's? |
Ez_rider
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 09:34 am: |
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Another option is to wire both lights to always be on. It's really simple - just open the left side control housing to get to the flash to pass switch, and you'll see that the solder terminals on the back of the switch are really close together (about 1/8" apart). What I did is just take my soldering iron and a small bit of solder and create a solder "bridge" between the terminals. Now it's just like the flash to pass switch is always on, and both lights are always on. No issues so far... |
Isham
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 09:41 am: |
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Anyone thought of wiring on an additional fog light on? Maybe even on the front fender. Like a lower profile squarish one. I wouldn't want to ruin the XB looks... I would even consider these. (Message edited by isham on April 11, 2006) |
Angelwild327
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 09:49 am: |
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Bikin, you don't open the lights, the bulbs go in from behind. You'll see a hole on each side of the light area, maybe a little above, kind of near and behind the windscreen, it is for the torx wrench, stick the wrench into those holes and you unscrew those and one behind the lamps and the lamps will swing forward, so you can pop in the new bulbs. This is also the way you will have to adjust the beam angle when you screw them back in. Good luck. |
Buellridersww
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 11:11 am: |
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Ez_rider: Do you have any issue with possible melting in the headlight area with both lights on all the time? I have heard about it but just wondering about the heat giving off from the lamp. |
Ez_rider
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 11:18 am: |
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No problems with melting as far as I can tell, but I haven't taken the lamps apart to check in detail. Do you know what area, specifically? |
Foxhole
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 12:22 pm: |
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Don't bother with the wiring, flick the switch to the middle and both stay on even through ruff terrain. I ride both at night and the difference is unbelievable. |
Ez_rider
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 01:06 pm: |
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Foxhole - I tried the switch in the middle position for a while also, but kept bumping it accidentally with my hand, so I opted to solder the terminals together instead. Same result, but more permanent... |
Perry
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 01:52 pm: |
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You can also just bridge two wires behind the flyscreen with a clip to get both headlights on. No need to mess with the solder. I've been running a year this way on my 12S, and there is no sign up any negative results, other than that oncoming traffic will sometimes flash their bright lights back at me :-| |
Shea
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 08:47 pm: |
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Just had mine out the other night for the first time and I thought the headlights sucked too. Even the high beam sucks. It looks like they just need to be adjusted to point out more, not really just brighter. |
Speedfreaks101
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:07 pm: |
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So what are the brightest bulbs that will not melt the housings without having to run a HID setup? |
Buellfirebolt31
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:14 pm: |
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Isn't wiring the passing lamp to always on, the same as running with brights all the time???? Just wondering....Thanks, Bradley |
Exitlandrew
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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Ive always thought about rewiring it with dual filament bulbs, so that both run all the time. Using the stock switch for high beams. I cant see any reason why it cant be done. It all just comes down to pure, unadulterated laziness |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:22 pm: |
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Thanks Angelwild327 |
Superbee24
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:25 pm: |
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I always wondered why they didn't make both lights work on brights? Silly. |
Mikerocket
| Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 - 10:57 pm: |
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quote:Another option is to wire both lights to always be on. It's really simple - just open the left side control housing to get to the flash to pass switch, and you'll see that the solder terminals on the back of the switch are really close together (about 1/8" apart). What I did is just take my soldering iron and a small bit of solder and create a solder "bridge" between the terminals. Now it's just like the flash to pass switch is always on, and both lights are always on. No issues so far...
Eazyrider, thats great. I will do this 4-sure. Thanks man!! |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2006 - 08:54 pm: |
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Just today I took 2 H-4 bulbs, re-milled the bases to fit the stock light housing on my '04 XBS and grafted on a new set of 3 terminal plugs. Now I have two headlights on all the time, with two high beams. I'll post Pics & let you know how it holds up, but I much prefer it to the stock "winking" arrangement. |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 04:14 pm: |
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Update: The whole system seems to be working fine. The only glitch so far was, I had to cut off the rubber caps that go over the headlight plugs. The 3 prong plugs are about twice as deep as the stock ones. Doesn't seem to be heating up to the melting point, even on high beam. The new H-4 bulbs are 55W low & 60W high. I believe the stock bulbs were 55W each. I'll keep you posted & get some Pics on soon. |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 05:18 pm: |
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Perry, could you explain the way to get both lights to stay on in a bit more detail? Which wires do you bridge? What color are they? How do you recognize them? What sort of clip do you use? Thank you. |
Superbee24
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 05:40 pm: |
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Is it possible to get the low beam to work as individual and have both lights on on high beam? Thanks |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 10:06 pm: |
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"Is it possible to get the low beam to work as individual and have both lights on on high beam?" That IS the way it works in the stock configuration. |
Superbee24
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 10:26 pm: |
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Bikin, No it is not. At least not on my CityX. That may be on the Firebolt? (Message edited by superbee24 on April 14, 2006) |
Ulendo
| Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 12:49 am: |
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Bikin2222 - how much work was involved in adapting the H4 bulb bases to the H7 mounts? any tricks fro keeping the filaments aligned correctly with the reflectors? I've got a bunch of them kicking around from the Bosch Modulars I run in my trucks, so they'd be a real cheap upgrade for me |
Bikin2222
| Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 09:28 am: |
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Ulendo, Basically you have to mill a flat spot on the top & bottom of the bulb base. It must be done carefully, because the filaments can break inside the bulb if it's vibrated too much. If you look at the socket in the back of your light & hold an H-4 next to it, it'll be pretty obvious. I'm having a bigger problem getting the longer 3 prong plugs to clearance the whole mess! I might just end up putting a large, good quality headlight on it. Those stock lights really DO suck! |
Xb9
| Posted on Saturday, April 15, 2006 - 09:39 am: |
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I was just flipping through the new Aerostich catalog, and they have an HID kit for $187/$247 (depends on what type of bulbs you need). it says the HID bulbs "run cooler, draw less power(35 watts) but produce about 160 watts of intensely white light (8300k)" Seems when I was pricing these kits out a couple of years ago they were in the $500-600 range, cost has gotten more affordable. |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2006 - 10:03 am: |
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Easy, I did the solder bridge boogie, and both lamps are on when the low beams are selected. Thanks, man! Just like it should have been when it left the factory! When the high beams are selected, only the low beam is on. When low beam is selected, both are on. Not matter which is selected, the high beam indicator light is lit on the " dash board" Is that what you get? I have a '03 XB9S |