| Author | Message | ||
     Dcmortalcoil |
I've done a search here and didn't see any problem I'm having: motor oil leakage through the gasket/left cover. So it seems that merely replacing the gasket will solve the problem. I still haven't received the service manual. How difficult is it to take off the left cover (the one with Pegasus logo)? I could take it to the dealer and have them repair under warranty. But the nearest one is like 30 miles away and way too time consuming dropping off, picking up. I rather do it myself if it is relatively simple. Would appreciate receiving instructions on how to take off the left cover. | ||
| Chadhargis |
That sounds like the infamous clutch weep issue. You sure it's oil and not clutch fluid? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
It's the left side not the right side. Definitely not the clutch fluid. It's motor oil that's leaking through the gasket. | ||
| Oldog |
alternator cover or filter housing alt cover I would let the dealer do it, oil filter get an oring and relace it. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Ah, dang...should have read that closer. Ignore my previous post.  | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
removing alt cover difficult? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Anyone have the part number for the gasket for the left side cover (alternator cover)? | ||
| Oldog |
Lyle from the FSM 1. remove the seat ( pillion and saddle ) 2. disconnect negative battery cable 3. disassemble pin and socket housings for alternator 4. pull the wiring harness support back from the C.P. (crank position) remove the fastener 5. remove the CP sensor from the housing, seprate the stator wiring & cp wiring loosten their clamps as needed, 6.Remove the oil cooler lines (both) 7.remove the cover the harness for the stator can be fished through the harness guide, use silicon spray to lubricate it ( from the fsm ) the cover has a unique torque sequence >>------- re install --------<< the fastener with the brass washer is #8 in the sequence ( from the fsm ) starting at the #8 position moving clockwise around the cover screw by screw 8,9,10,11,12,13,2,3,4,5,6,7,1,14 1 loosley install the cover screws 2 re route CP sensor and stator wiring starting at the sensor end snap wires in to their guides and feed them up through the harness support 3 tighten in sequence the cover screws to 98 inch pounds 4 reinstall oil cooler lines 5 route stator harness up through the harness support and secure it with the rubber bands 6 tywrap the harness to the main harness under the seat 7 re assemble the connectors and re connect 8 reconnect battery 9 re install the seat IMPORTANT, if you do not have a FSM get one, this motor cycle is one of the more complex electrical installs I have ever seen ( I build electrical appratus for a living ) the "ignition" cover houses the alternator stator, rotor and the geartrain for the balancers pay extreemly close attention to the area as you disassemble it, I again suggest that its under warranty take it to the dealer and allow them to service it, if you mess it up you pay for the repair if they do it its up to them. it is not a 30 minute job. I have made my best efforts at relaying the FSM data YMMV | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Thanks Oldog. I thought it merely involves removing the cover and installing a new gasket. But even if it takes me 3 hours it's worth it because dropping off and picking up 30 miles away is a major PITA. | ||
| Ccryder |
Lyle: Are you sure it's not the neutral switch leaking? It's in that same area with a wire on a screw terminal. B4 you go too far take a pict so we all take a guess. Neil S. | ||
| D_adams |
Is this kinda like armchair coaching here? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Neil. thx for the heads up. I'll triple check. I can see the seepage around hole #10. All the fasteners are dry. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Neil, if the leakage is coming from the neutral switch, how do I go about fixing it? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Oldog, The FSM I ordered won't be shipped until Oct. 22. #8 hole, is that located adjacent upper to the CP sensor? Much appreciated. (Message edited by dcmortalcoil on October 15, 2009) | ||
| Parrick |
I just finished replacing the stator on my '09 so perhaps I can offer assistance... Removing the cover is not terribly difficult but it is complicated mainly by 3 things: 1) You are going to have to drain all the oil. You probably already figured that one out as you already know that the oil cooler lines have to be disconnected. The service manual lists a special tool for removing the oil cooler line retaining clips. It can be done with common hand tools if you pay attention and are careful. When replacing the cooler lines the clips are replaced first and then the lines are pushed into the connector to click into place. It looks at first glance like you can remove the cover without first removing the lower oil cooler line...you can't, take it off. 2) There are some very strong magnets in there. The alternator rotor has very strong magnets which make it challenging to get the cover off and maintain alignment without scraping internal parts. It also makes it feel like the gasket is sticking when you start to remove the cover because the magnets pull the cover strongly down against the crankcase when the cover is within about an inch of the crankcase. You will need some sort of alignment tool to keep the cover lined up during removal and install. I used 4 steel rods about 5 inches long that were close in O.D. to the diameter of the cover bolts. I threaded the ends of the rods to screw into the cover bolt holes after the bolts were removed so the cover could slide on and off with alignment maintained. 3) The big one: Stator wiring harness The stator wiring harness consists of 3 yellow wires covered by a black plastic sheath which extends up along the side of the engine through a plastic guide. It has a connector at the top end which is located under the seat. The description in the manual gives the impression that the whole thing can be pulled through after the terminal connector is removed. You might get it out that way but I doubt you would ever get it threaded back in through the plastic guide. There are a lot of other wires going through that same guide and it is very tight in there. Here is what I did: First you have to disassemble the connector and remove the individual wires. The connector has a plug in the end opposite where the wires enter. That plug is pulled out easily with needle nose pliers and then you can release the wires from the connector by using a pick to release the retainer clips inside the connector. Once the wires are free you can pull them out of the connector and slide them out of the rubber grommet they pass through. Now you have 3 free wires with crimp terminals at the ends. Next cut off the shrink tube at the top end of plastic sheath that the wires travel through. Now you have 3 free wires that travel through a plastic sheath which extends through the plastic wiring harness guide. The plastic sheath will remain in place and provide the route to fish the wires back through the guide. You will need a way to pull the wires back through the sheath after you pull them out. I used 3 long pieces of thin stainless steel tie wire. Attach the tie wires to each yellow wire at the crimp connectors. Now you are ready to pull the wires out. Lubricate the inside of the sheath with spray silicone and pull the wires out one at a time leaving the tie wire behind in their place. Now the cover can be removed from the engine. To get the wires back through the sheath after the cover and gasket are replaced you use the tie wires to pull them up through one at a time. I used a generous amount of silicone grease on the wires to make it easier. It's tight in there and if you mess it up you are looking at an extensive tear-down to rotate the engine to get to the plastic wiring harness guide and re-route the stator wiring harness. After you get everything put back together and the wires in place you can replace the shrink tubing and reassemble the connector. If you are replacing the ignition cover gasket you will also want to replace the sealant around the rubber grommet which the stator wires pass through where they exit the ignition cover. The manual calls for Harley super-whatever grey RTV sealant. I bought a tube of this and it was about 3 years old and thick as cookie dough. I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV sealant instead. It has similar composition & properties. This sealant area is probably the source of your leak if I had to guess. Now, before you do anything make sure you determine where the leak is coming from. The CP sensor also has an O-ring on it which is in the same area you describe. If that's what is leaking it is an easy replacement. (1 bolt) The ignition cover gasket is part #R0008.1AM Ignition cover bolt #8 (copper washer) is the first bolt counter-clockwise from the CP sensor. These are just tips. I wouldn't attempt to mess with it until I had the service manual in-hand. Good luck! -Pat | ||
| Oldog |
exelent rwite up Pat, thanks for the input, I guess that we are on our own now.... | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Pat. Thanks for your awesome writeup. You should be doing what I do for living - draft patent applications. I couldn't think at the time the best way to describe the bolt #8 position - "the first bolt counter-clockwise from the CP sensor." Spot on. Thanks again. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
So I gather the cover is not just a cover, but with components attached to it, making it difficult to remove due to strong magnets. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Before I tackle the cover removal, I'm going to take Neil's suggestion and replace the CP gasket since it really is simple and see what that does. The gasket appears to be standard 11/16ID; 13/16OD. Any idea whether I can use any gasket from hardware/auto store, or would I need a silicon gasket. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Oldog, I only see 13 fasterners. Where does the 14th one comes from? One fastening the CP count? If so what hole number is that? Thx | ||
| Ccryder |
Lyle; Got picts? | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I tried taking pictures. can't see anything worthwhile. The leakage only happens when the engine starts. Right now, I took of some parts off so I can't start the engine. | ||
| Parrick |
The leakage only happens when the engine starts? That sounds odd. Nothing in a standard engine design should experience an oil pressure spike at startup unless the crankcase is overfilled. Or did you mean that the leakage ceases after the engine has warmed up? Oh, and bolt #14 is actually bolt #1...they count it twice in the FSM. I don't know why. Maybe they want to make the point that one should recheck the beginning of the torque sequence after reaching the last fastener(?) | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
ths parrick. the leakage starts about 1 minute after starting the engine and continues while it's running. it stops few minutes after the engine stops. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I feel stupid. Should have checked the oil level first. Was way overfilled. Drained the oil to the correct level. Problem solved. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Parrick, The leakage appeared again. So I ended up taking the ignition cover off. Was fairly simple. There is no need to take the terminals out from the connector housing as there is enough length of wire to work with (just pull the wire from the bottom of the guide until connector is adjacent to the end of the guide), at least for replacing the gasket. | ||
| Parrick |
If you manage to pinpoint the source of the leak I would be interested in hearing what you found. Did you happen to check the torque on the ignition cover bolts before taking it off? Glad to hear it went successfully. - Pat | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Pat, When the bike was up on stands upright, it was ok. It's when the bike is leaning on the stand while the bike is running the leak appears more appreciably. My original assessment was correct, the seepage is isolated around hole #10. Bone dry around the CP sensor and the stator wire (plug around three yellow wires). The gasket seems to held up ok. I did notice the wetness around hole #10 though. I'll post some photos. Thanks again. Your suggestion for using posts as a guide made it really simple to take off and install (used 8 6mm x 75mm bolts with the head cut off). I'm waiting for the gasket ordered sunday. |
