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Message |
Cmmagnussen
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2022 - 05:35 am: |
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My brother's Uly header cracked awhile back, few cracks in the bends broke off the rear studs and blew out the O2 sensor. I ordered a replacement header from St Paul HD with new gaskets and clamps drilled and replaced the studs and all the fun that goes with that. 50-100 miles later it blows out the O2 sensor. So what are the options for something that won't crack? Twin has a stainless header available and NCCR has a titanium. I also saw Forcewinders system and they offer a baffle but not sure how much that would quiet it down. I will be replacing the muffler when I do the header not sure if I will be going for a torque hammer or NCCRs offering. Thoughts, input? Thanks in advance |
Damnut
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2022 - 08:10 am: |
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Header options for these bikes are very limited. The only other option is a Micron exhaust but those are not made anymore and finding one may be a bit of a task. |
Cmmagnussen
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2022 - 10:09 am: |
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No one going forward is allowed to suggest unobtainium micron... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2022 - 12:24 pm: |
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How did you install it? There's a definite process required to get them installed so they don't crack from being torqued out of line. Learned that the hard way on my tubers... 1. start the bolts/nuts at the head, but DO NOT TORQUE 2. start the hangars, working your way along the exhaust flow, but DO NOT TORQUE. 3. Slip the muffler onto the collector and into its mounts, but DO NOT TORQUE. 4. once everything is loosely hung, wiggle it all around to settle it, and start torquing the head studs. Wiggle as you torque, to ensure you don't have anthing binding or twisted. 5. work your way along the exhaust path, wiggling and torquing as you go, one hangar/bolt at a time. By the time you get to the rear muffler hangar, it should basically fall into place because everything is lined up. If you have to force anything? You're out of alignment and you WILL crack the header again soon. As for spitting out the O2, you can get a helicoil specifically for O2 threads and repair the bung, if the rest of the header is OK. I've only had sensors spit out if they were crossthreaded in the first place, and the threads were stripped out. |
Cmmagnussen
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2022 - 03:57 pm: |
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Was pretty ginger with the install to avoid tension. The threads out the O2 sensor are fine. The only crack in the header it around the O2 sensor bung so I have a sensor dangling with a bung and cracked weld hooked to it. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2022 - 04:34 pm: |
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That sounds like a defective part; I’ve seen photos posted of similar failures, but generally from bikes that are a few years old. There was no warranty on it? |
Cmmagnussen
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2022 - 08:04 pm: |
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Warranty is a no go, seems like every time I deal with Harley I regret it. |
Damnut
| Posted on Friday, March 18, 2022 - 08:08 pm: |
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Unobtainium Micron??? Microns are still to be had, especially for one with a quick trigger finger and keen eye.
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D_adams
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2022 - 10:55 am: |
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Cmmagnussen, take the header off, clean up the broken O2 port, PURGE THE HEADER with argon and weld it back in place. It's 300 grade stainless, so use the appropriate filler wire when welding it. It's an easy enough fix if it's done correctly and shouldn't break that easily. |
D_adams
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2022 - 10:56 am: |
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Also, I'd be looking to the muffler that's on it. It should have plenty of flow through it that an O2 sensor (and the bung) should never blow out. |
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