G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through January 02, 2014 » Front lower fenders « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Advoutlander
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 04:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



Tonight I have been removing the torx screws from the lower front fender, the screws on the left and right side have been stripped out. Ive tried to use vice grips but the plastics do not allow me to get in as the vice grips are too big to fit in the hole.

Ive also tried needle nose pliers but the screw is in too tight to get it to rotate.



Any ideas without have to replace the plastics?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Panhead_dan
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 05:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you using a t27 or t25? (use a t27)

I have removed damaged torx fasteners by using the next biggest tool (t30) and lightly drive it into the screw with a hammer.
I have used a center punch to turn out the screw.
I have drilled the heads of damaged screws off using a bit that's slightly bigger than the shaft of the screw. (use a 1/4")
I will be buying a set of reverse twist drill bits someday.
Destroying the plastic is not the answer. When you are done, you still have the screw to deal with, right?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fotoguzzi
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a reverse drill bit might spin it out. I would not use an easy out because they break off and then you have a really herd chunk stuck in there that can't be drilled.
one of those hand impact drivers might work, jam the T30 in hole and rap on the impact tool.
heat might soften the lock tight but may melt the plastic around it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yo_barry
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would use a drill just a little bigger than the rounded out hole and cut the head off. Then you can get the lower fender out of the way, use a little heat on what's left of the screw and take it out with vice grips.

I don't know why the factory used the super locking compound on these screws, they are tough to get out!

Barry
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are short stubby easy-out like tools for removing screws. I have a set (Sears if memory serves) I used a number of times for torx screws.

Kind of like these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-screw-out-174- damaged-screw/p-00952154000P
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Advoutlander
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the right side I manage to drill the screw head off successfully and use vice grips to remove the shaft.

On the left side I drilled too much of the shaft. I frees the plastic but there is not enough good metal on the shaft to get a good grip with vice grips. Im going to try a screw extractor to remove the shaft.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pinball
Posted on Friday, December 27, 2013 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try dipping your torx bit in some Valve grinding compound, it is gritty and helps give it a little extra bite.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2013 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Michael -

If you can't get it out, come up and see me.
I have a pretty wide selection of carbides.
Several times I've had to carve out stuck guides and exhaust studs.
Usually the studs have a little piece of extractor broken in there too.. : (

Zack
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Woodnbow
Posted on Saturday, December 28, 2013 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anybody have a parts number for the lower fender? I'm looking at an 09 that's missing the lower fender entirely. Thanks,
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Advoutlander
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 12:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pontlee77
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got from a shop here in Spain a reverse drill set for under 10$ i can say it has worked in every case of screw i coulden't take out, some would loosen and come out others it would just remove the head.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Woodnbow
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@Advoutlander, Thanks! I love this board!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ulyful
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Advoutlander,

RE: Drilling out the screw head.

Yes, you need to make sure your drill bit is larger in diameter than the shaft of the screw head you're drilling out. That will ensure the head breaks free from the shaft immediately after you've drilled down into the screw head far enough to detach it. Otherwise, you'll just keep drilling into the screw shaft without releasing the screw head. That will ensure enough screw shaft is still exposed (after the plastic fender is removed) to get a pair of vice grips on it to get the rest of the shaft out of the threaded hole.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It was a bitch but I got thru the screw and tapped thru it.
At one point the screw started coming out, then stopped.
I finished coring thru it with carbides then took a tap to it.

Not the ending I hoped for but success none-the-less.

Always good to meet another BWBer.

Zack
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Advoutlander
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Zack thanks again for repairing the forks. Im.going to order the new screws today. I like the look of the bike without the fender but it sure saves road grime being sprayed all over the front of the engine. Im going to have to detail the bike.

Thanks for the Buell history lesson in folklore, its interesting, I definitely feel like I showed up too late to the party.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've had some galling issues with stainless screws myself. One would have thought that stainless would be a sure thing too!

It doesn't seem to matter if the nuts are also stainless, brass, plain old steel, aluminum. I've had stainless screws "become one" with all of the above.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration