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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through March 07, 2011 » Rear Axle Pinch Bolt « Previous Next »

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Nxdirtbag
Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ordered some Pirelli Scorpion Trails from MCSS on Friday night after getting the Taxes done. So in anticipation of my fun filled tire changing event sometime this week, I pulled out the manual to make sure I don't need anything. I checked under the seat and made sure my tool kit has the 7/8 inch adapter for the axles. It's there. I checked under the right side of the swingarm to make sure I have the right size allen for the pinch bolt and ................... ............ what pinch bolt!!!!???? The previous owner mentioned putting the Scorpions on the bike but I think he/shop forgot to tighten the pinch bolt back up. So it must have rattled out.

I did a half hour Google/advrider/badweatherbiker search with no luck. So what size is this bolt? Anyone... anyone.... Bueller.... Bueller?
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NXDirtBag
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Gamdh
Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Part Number AA0712.2CZB Pinch bolt, axle head

BOLT, 7/16-14 x 1-1/2 socket hd, bright zinc

from the '06 parts manual

(Message edited by gamdh on February 21, 2011)
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Dfishman
Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I noticed mine was missing.I am the only one that has touched it(I do my own tires,belt replacements etc).I got a new bolt & realized the swingarm was stripped.I used a high quality torque wrench & antiseize on the threads each time.So I guess a timesert or helicoil is in order.I am curious to see if anybody else has experienced the same thing.
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Nxdirtbag
Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Gamdh, I will be headed to the hardware store tomorrow to see if they have it.
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do not know if anyone else here has noted it but I think that some of the steel-on-alloy torque settings are a bit on the high side. Its hard to strip a steel-on-steel thread but very easy to do it on alloy.

I have one stripped under the seat, it was not me, and one on the hanger-to-frame that I did do. I used a brand new torque wrench as well. Apart from the front and rear axles, pinch bolts and engine I just tighten up by hand now. Its much safer.

A dab of locking fluid on the pinch bolts might be a good idea as well and on other bolts if it worries you any.
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Motorfish
Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had some trouble with the stainless bolts holding the air filter lower half to the frame. Snapped one off. The alloy, "sticks" to the stainless, I would think from corrosion. Now any bolt I remove from alloy, I use never-seez or lock-tite.
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Arcticktm
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dfish,
Using anti-sieze where it is not specifically called for will make the torque value need to be adjusted.

If the torque value was calculated based on a dry thread fit, adding the anti-sieze dramatically reduces the friction.
Therefore, using the same torque value will actually be tightening the bolt much more than it was dry.
This can lead to stripping or even breakage, depending on how much margin the joint had in the first place.
Torque values are only valid for the same condition as used at the factory (clean joint with the same type of thread condition, whether it was dry, thread-lock or anti-seize).
Factories rarely use anti seize because it makes a mess in a production facility.
They usually prefer dry threads, or a pre-applied (non liquid) thread lock.

Torque is actually a lousy way to control bolted joint preload (which is what you really care about), but the more accurate ways are not very practical for us in our garage (actually measuring preload, or measuring bolt stretch).

We deal with this a lot at work in our designs.
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Motorfish
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Arc, so would using lock tite, and using the lowest torque spec be safe? Using nothing on the threads in alloy with exposure to moisture has caused problems. Lock tite has a new "tape", but I would think that would reduce friction too. What would you say is the best solution?
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Tootal
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All those 1/4-20 torx button head screws get anti-sieze and are put on with a screw driver with torx bits. It's actually out of my factory Harley tool kit. Can't over torque and I've never had one come out. I especially use the anti-sieze on the ones going into the muffler. The main thing is to use either loctite or anti-sieze because the aluminum will corrode and lock you up!
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Nikolai
Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2011 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I blew the axle pinch bolt. My sense is that because of it's non-traditional design with the threads captive across the opening, drilling out and putting a helicoil or steel aviation-grade insert will require welding a bit of aluminum tubing into the hole you drilled, then drilling that out again. Very expensive and exacting proposition.
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