| Author | Message | ||
     Mhlunsford |
90 bend with reducers and screen and packing material inside. Much quieter than open pipe.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'd be pretty worried about odd fueling (which could lean things out and hurt the motor) as well as the mounting system on that setup (which could shear exhaust studs, which is a PITA to fix, and can ruin a head). Clever way to get home in a pinch though! | ||
| Ratbuell |
What the hell is puking oil all over your inspection cover?? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Shifter rod seal. The circle around mine is not that large, but it does go up as well as down. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
thanks - will have to look at the seal. I also ordered a 90 bend 2 1/2 dia 2 1/2 radius from summit. Will then see about a bracket. the 4 in dia just to close to my foot. The d&d and the VandH I had basically tore themselves apart. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
If you can macgyver this,why not make a replica race-can from some quality tube!? | ||
| S1owner |
You can just contact Dean Adams he makes awesome cans and they are built right   | ||
| Jayvee |
There's a few sites that sell DIY components. Shouldn't be too hard. But might add up to cost as much as a used muffler. These guys look good: http://www.coneeng.com/mufflers.html | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Whatever you Macguiver, make sure to put a safety cable on there. At least one of "our team" has gone down due to pole-vaulting a muffler that came loose in the front. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Good call. I had the baffle come out on my s2 tore a brand new rear tire at 70 on freeway. I was lucky on that one to slide into shoulder with no cars. I took off the dd as it was vibrating where the muffler connected to where it was ready to drop from the front. I will not but a muffler on instead I basically put a baffle into the stubby | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Version2 Summit racing 2.5 90 bend and connector swivel exhaust hanger and reducers from autozone and steel rivets no baffle  | ||
| S1owner |
Can I ask what you are trying to accomplish? Just curious? | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Run ok and a little quieter than open pipe want it to last a few years. Spent $$ on cans that just fell apart. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
It is fun doing it on the cheap ,only thing i would make sure is that the pipe is straight and thigh at the front hanger mount ,so no risk on breaking studs. | ||
| S1owner |
Ok I get it. My thoughts take them or leave them. 1- the joints are run backwards the up side pipe should be on the inside of the next oioe not the outside. 2- use a proper clamp that distributes force evenly like the stock ones. The one you are using does not and creates weak points 3 - use a proper hanger like a race shoe the unuversal hanger you have will allow to much movement and possible fatigue in the header, joints, and possibly wear through at the attachment point. IMO without fixing these you will either wreck the header or it will not achieve your goal. Remember in every system there has to be a fail point. Where do you want it on a very expensive header or a replaceable muffler. Here is my example Used to get pissed wrecking my trail arms on my sled 2 times per year. Was a cheap repair my friend works for polaris so parts are like 125.00. But me I bought a aftermarket iver built sytem and said I wont bend it this year. Well I did not bend it. Instead I bent the tunnel. Which took me about 60 man hours and 1000 to repair. Thats not even replace just repair. |
