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Tripp
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:20 pm: |
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i'm in the middle of a nightmare m2 belt replacement(i will post in knowledge section later) i could'nt get my right isolator out and kinda ruined it, sooo i went to my closest buell dealer which is over an hour away to get 1, i just want to verify the part number before i continue, i was given h-d part#47564-86a and it looks like the part, but it's oddly angular so i wanted to check with u guys before going any further(i have a 99 cyclone btw).... |
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Blake
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 01:59 pm: |
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The isolators are all oddly angular. If you look closely at the left side isolator you should see the same basic skewed shape is evident. The part number listed in my '97/'98 Cyclone's service manual is 47564-86, so your "a" version will probably work fine. |
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Tripp
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:12 pm: |
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thanks blake!! i hope to install isolator and new belt tomorrow!! |
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Spiderman
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:27 pm: |
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WHOOOOO there fellas. Since you are in there why don't you upgrade to the new Isolators??? Part numbers L0504.9 L0505.9 There is a left and right make sure you get one of each. edited by spiderman on July 05, 2003 |
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Ray_maines
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 04:56 pm: |
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"nightmare m2 belt replacement" is redundant |
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Blake
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 09:59 pm: |
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Well, if he wanted to replace both,that might be a good idea. But he'd want the full upgrade kit no? New (2001) rear isolator kit #Z0010.CB |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 12:27 am: |
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Is not getting both isolators out of an M2 just as easy as getting out one? I didn't mean to say it's easy, I know it's not, but that's like changing one wheel bearing. As long as you have them out, get the 2001's. You'll be glad you did. |
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Tripp
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 11:44 am: |
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doh, i already bought the old one! i shoulda checked here first before doing anything! is the new set up that much better(must be)?what a project though! eeeeek |
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Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:16 pm: |
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Blake, You don't need the Kit you can use the stock isolator bolts, which I prefer over that torx bolt crap. Plus why would you leave a old isolator on one side and a new one on the other?? Thats like replacing one fork tube or one side of your brake pads. Tripp, The Isolators are awesome stiffer and give ya a better feel for the bike. Worth the 9.50 each |
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Crusty
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 09:26 pm: |
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Tripp, I just replaced the belt on my 2000 M2 last week. It's a royal pain in the ass(though not as bad as adjusting the valves on a desmo Duck). I STRONGLY recommend that you replace both isolators with the upgraded versions. they're bigger, stronger and more durable; and they'll be one less thing you'll have to worry about. |
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Blake
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 03:20 pm: |
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I agree with Tony and Crusty. Might as well do both. |
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Tripp
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:14 pm: |
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it figures they only had one in stock @ $41, my local dealer is not very helpful, spidey is there a left and right for the old ones too? |
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Tripp
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:22 pm: |
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i totally need a parts book for this bike! sounds like i should go with the new kit with the old bolts! I KNEW I SHOULDA CHECKED HERE FIRST!!! i'm going to put her back together for now and in a few weeks pull it apart and go with the new set-up, where can i get these stock parts at good prices? my local dealer is over an hour away and does'nt ever seem to have jack for stock, these guys don't even have any damb t-shirts! |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:23 pm: |
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If you get the 2001 isolators and don't get the kit, you'll have to cut down the front pulley cover, or take it off completely. You'll understand when you see the new ones. |
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S1joel
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 09:30 pm: |
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Here's the new isolators.
![New](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/496363/32106.jpg) |
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Spiderman
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 11:22 pm: |
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Just cut down your cover with a dremel, use your old bolts I did and no problem in 10k miles. Uless a factory anony can say diff I see no problem physically in using the old bolts. As long as you use the right lock tight and antiseze in the proper location per your man. |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 08:12 am: |
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Spidey, When I put the belt on about 6 weeks ago the isolator bolts on mine were TORX. Did the 98 Lightning come with those or did the retailer install the upgrade kit?
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Tripp
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:04 pm: |
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omg, did you say cut the cover? i bought carbon fiber for everything(a small fortune, as u all know)can i cut it with a dremel? |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:18 pm: |
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I don't see why not. Wear a respirator. I don't think you want carbon fiber dust in your lungs. |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:21 pm: |
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The 98 bikes used hex bolts. If you have torx, it's a good bet you have the new isolators. Do they look like the ones posted above? With the metal flange? |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:28 pm: |
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Tripp, When you install the new isolators, make sure they don't twist on you. There's a line on them that runs laterally from the inside to the outside across the face of the rubber. It looks like a seam. Make sure that sucker is straight after you get them torqued. A small amount of grease on the back of the bolt head helps prevent the bolt from digging in and turning the isolator. Not sure what type of locktite to use. The upgrade kit bolts are pre-locktited with blue, but I don't know if the color corresponds to what you can buy at the auto parts store.
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Spiderman
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:24 am: |
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Blue loctite and the book says to use AntiSeeze on the back of the head bolt not grease. Well I am sure you could use grease but i would rather use antiseeze ![:p](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/rasberry.gif) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 08:06 pm: |
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My Isolators did not have the metal flange on them. They were also in good shape when they came out. But, No big deal to change them just time consuming. The trick was to get the motor secured to the floor of the garage. |
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Anonymous
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:32 pm: |
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Using the old bolts with the new isolators is not best practice. They "can" cause the isolators to fail early when the isolator flexes and makes contact with the old bolt head. |
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Spiderman
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:51 pm: |
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Anony what is the Size difference in the old bolts and the new? Was this the reason for the upgraded bolts? |
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Anonymous
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 10:56 pm: |
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New bolt, button head style TORX with low profile. Old bolt, socket head with high profile. Yes. |
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Spiderman
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:17 pm: |
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This will let me know if you are who i think you are. How do you fix the sproket nut comming off on a S1? On the assembly line that is. edited by spiderman on July 09, 2003 |
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Anonymous
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:53 pm: |
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I don't, the S1 has been out of production for several years now. |
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Court
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 05:30 am: |
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"who" is none of your business. Stay focused on "if". No need to hide next to the phone booth to see who runs in to change. I assure you that the info is credible.
![:)](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/happy.gif) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 07:31 am: |
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHA |