| Author | Message | ||
     Jackgraves |
hey d adams me a scarab are best friends you still kickass man we love your products (Message edited by jackgraves on February 04, 2010) | ||
| Stearmandriver |
Great job Mr. Adams, now sell that MIG and start TIG'in. You are to good of a fabricator to be MIG welding these things. Awesome job! | ||
| Xelerator |
The EBR Race Muffler integration is what I like most, ground clearance seems to be better than stock. I am looking forward to see further designs. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/529991.jpg (Message edited by Xelerator on February 04, 2010) | ||
| D_adams |
I think that muffler is only about 8" long. I'm guessing it's considerably louder than the one's I built, but I could be wrong. I'm looking into more equipment for changing designs and offering alternatives, but my garage is only so big. All I have in it now is one bike and a bunch of tools, etc. No cars and it's a 2 car garage.  | ||
| Cravacor |
Cool stuff man, keep up the good work!  | ||
| D_adams |
Forgot to post these from the other day. Dual outlet dyno. Not sure what the deal is on the 2nd run, but I know for sure I didn't run a negative.   Same as the other runs, slight dip up top. I need to switch back to the factory filter and try it again. | ||
| Tbenson |
Looks like it gets erratic from 7K on up? The two runs look pretty consistent though. | ||
| D_adams |
It's weird, it's done that on every dyno I've tried it on, even when it was bone stock, the only thing I changed initially was the air filter. I put in a K&N very early on, maybe at the 620 mile service, coulda been even earlier than that. The more I look at other dyno charts, the more I suspect it to be the reason for the weird plots. Until I test it again, I won't know though. | ||
| Bartimus |
It would be nice to have a muffler that is about 12 or 14 inches long, and re-packable. any thoughts of making one of those in the future? | ||
| D_adams |
The mufflers I've built so far are all 12" long. Unfortunately, the case is extremely tight fit and is designed to be welded together. They get hammered together, then clamped to hold shape and close the seam along the length of the can. I'm looking into doing a 3.5" round can, straight through with a perforated core. One end will be welded, the other might be set for removal. I don't like the idea of riveting it, so maybe 3 safety wired bolts for the end cap. It will probably be even louder than the first few, but I'm thinking it might have the option to repack it. I plan on ordering the parts for it in the next month, so we'll see what happens. I've been toying with the idea of doing one of these for a while now anyway, this might push me over the edge. I guess welding some tabs inside on the end cap, drill and tap holes, drill the shell for bolts, etc. might all be something I can get done. I'm also looking at cones, forward and reverse. I need to do some more calculations. Grr, time to dig out the notes from 20 yrs ago. (Message edited by d_adams on February 07, 2010) | ||
| D_adams |
Parts ordered today for the round can, but I decided on using a 4" can instead. It's only going to be a 10" body though and can be angled/tucked very tight to the motor. I'm still planning on using the same style turnout unless someone wants to see something a little different. | ||
| D_adams |
Bought me a small buffer today and started playing around. These are from a cell phone cam and I only polished for maybe 10 minutes with white rouge. New buffing wheels throw crap everywhere! The phone does ok for quick pics, but it doesn't do the shine justice. I'll take some other pics with a better camera later. I want to do the whole thing though, so I might not get them posted today. Stainless polishes up very nicely.    | ||
| D_adams |
Batteries were charged so I took some of it as it is.   | ||
| Mrbuell |
I am waiting for my tax check...... Dang | ||
| D_adams |
Did a quick polish on this. It's not perfect, but it's looking pretty good. I need a yellow wheel and I shoulda bought the 8 or 10" buffer. The 6" one is just too small and I keep killing it with the pressure trying to cut out the small imperfections in the metal. Anyway, here's the polished version.           | ||
| Justa4banger |
Looks great D.... | ||
| D_adams |
Thanks  | ||
| Dannybuell |
An EBR pump gas race ecm and the dual exit version of that thing. I can't wait. dannybuell | ||
| Freight_dog |
It's amazing what a polish job can do. I just went from, "oh, that's interesting" to "hmmm, I might want that...". Your sound clips make me believe it has great sound too. I agree with those saying to tuck the can in tighter. I am also curious to see how the round can comes out. | ||
| D_adams |
As I've told numerous people who have asked about the sound, if you've got a subwoofer on your sound system, turn the youtube video up until you feel it. That's pretty close. It is definitely loud, just deeper than most aftermarket offerings. The single outlet oval is the quieter of the two, but not by much. The dual one, you can feel it from 5 feet away, even in front of the bike. Both sound pretty good though. The round can will most likely be even louder yet, the can is only 10" long and will be straight through. I've found that my gas mileage has suffered a little because I'm staying in lower gears more and twisting on the throttle a lot. You will be heard with one of these. The round can pricing will be around $550 I think, unless I get another discount on materials, but that won't happen unless I order material for about 20 systems or more. As I'm a one guy shop for the welding side, 20 at once would be a lot for me. Normally I do one or two at a time, max. I'll also do polishing, but it takes a few hours to do one system, so it's not a cheap option at another $150 more. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
The round pipe option sounds promising--I'm curious to see what it looks like! | ||
| Ravnna431 |
D adams...is the round can system you're making anything like the looks of this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUELL-1125R-CUSTOM- EXHAUST_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a04b638acQQite mZ180467677356QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessori es Can't wait to see what you come up with! | ||
| D_adams |
I can't get to ebay from where I am, can you post a pic of it? Thx. | ||
| Jules |
Taken from eBay   | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Do you think there is room for two round cans side by side with a pass through welded about midway on them? Would that do anything? sort of like 2 into 1 into 2? | ||
| D_adams |
Just a guess, but the one pictured above (thx Jules) probably has good low end torque, but loses hp up top. It also looks like about a 5" round can. Yeah, I could do something similar, but I'd rather have the collector close to where it is on the previous versions I've done. Beyond that, it looks interesting, I'm curious as to what it's dyno chart looks like. It looks like a pre-made can though, like something bought off the shelf. Someone did some nice work there, all stainless, clean welds, etc. Now that I look at it a bit more, that kinda looks like a Burns Stainless muffler, but I could be wrong. Those aren't cheap either, about $250 for one, all the way up to $450 or so and that's just the muffler.  As for doing the crossover, I'd do it much earlier in the tubing, maybe 8" ahead of the mufflers, rather than doing an H cross at the muffler itself. Toysgarage did a very neat one a little while back and it looked very good. I think the mufflers were a bit long for my tastes, but I can't complain about it since it looked like a professional job. There was only one thing I would have done different on his setup and it was turnouts to each side, other than that, it looks awesome. The X-pipe setup I use will be a little different, I'm still looking into exactly how I want to do it. One other thing to watch for is the muffler diameter. 4" round is pretty much the largest I'd use if it's tucked up at an angle, 3.5" if it's under the bike, maybe even a 3" can. It just depends on how tight it is to the motor. I guess I could put these up on ebay also, everyone seems to look there. I just hate the fees they charge on everything. They get you for listing it, they get a final auction value fee and then, if you take paypal, there goes even MORE money out the door. (Message edited by d_adams on February 15, 2010) | ||
| Mountainstorm |
True. Those Burns Cans look pretty neat: I bet that tapered endcap does something positive to the tone and flow. A pair of those would be some real eye candy with right and left turn outs. I see what you mean about the X before the cans...but it all starts getting a bit cramped with a slip on. It sure is fun watching you progress with your ideas and work D. Best of luck with fleaBay. | ||
| Blackflash |
Ebay fees are atrocious. Then paypal get some.You have to mark up 15% over your original price.On 100.00 bucks its 12% then 3% for paypal.By the way the polish can looks good. | ||
| Ravnna431 |
Don't put em on ebay, keep doing what you are doing D. I was just browsing ebay today and thought that set up looked good with the round can. Their fees are ridiculous !!!! | ||
| D_adams |
I'm just thinking out loud really on the ebay thing. Everyone's heard of it and there's a few potential buyers there. Sure, I have a captive audience here of dedicated Buellers, but I'm guessing I could expand a little there also. I know it's hard to believe that not everyone has heard of Badweb, so I'm thinking about it. $634 x 15% would require charging another $95 just to break even on what I sell them for now. Hmm, I dunno. I started doing this to make them affordable, not ream people on the prices. Maybe list them for cheap, have a reserve and put a link for where to buy it? Is that even legal? I guess I need to look into it to see what the terms of service is on ebay. It's probably not a good thing though. Maybe Craigslist. |
