| Author | Message | ||
     Mbsween |
Just another moment in the 14 years/50K with this beast  Already have the new belt, thanks Al! That's route 20 south of Montezuma swap if you're from this part of the states (Western NY) | ||
| Buell_m2_s3 |
That is always fun did it break from age or from a rock? I had one do that on a 1996 S1 I had it broke an separated the dealer was baffled it had about 1500 miles on it. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
That was me two weeks ago on our last 85 degree day. 34K, and mines a cleaner break. I also already have a new belt and iso kit from American Sport Bike. I've never done a belt before, but I'll be hanging the bike from the rafters and flipping through the manual later this week. how much time should I expect to spend before its back on two wheels, and does anybody have the link to belt adjustment 101? I'd like to get a few more days in before the frost is on the road for my commute. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Make belt adjustment "scary loose", in other words, you should be able to touch the belt to the swingarm, both sides of swingarm! | ||
| Two_seasons |
Hey Sweeney, please tell us about your front suspension AFTER your rebuild with "gold valving". Curious to know how much of a transformation you experienced. Thanks  | ||
| Mbsween |
Mnscrounger, you can find the shop manual in a bunch of places. You'll want that before doing the Isolators. search for buellmods and manual IO don't remember if the S3T had the same frame piece that comes off, makes changing the belt on the X1 much easier than say an M2. That said she'll be hanging from the ceiling this week. Running out of summer up here Two_seasons, I think it's worth the effort. It makes the initial travel really soft and then firms up towards the bottom, way better than mine was anyways. The only oddity I have is I used all 4 washers for pre-load )in each leg), the washers must separate when I hit small sharp bumps, like the end of a driveway. It sounds like the fork is bottoming, but doesn't feel like it. It is a bit of work and then you might go through a couple iterations of valving so you'll be taking it part a bunch. I recommend it highly | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Mdsween: I've got the manual, I need to spread the frame from the motor mount block on the right side to get the belt in place. I was just wondering what kind of time frame I need to plan for. (when doing auto work I just double the hours estimated by a professional, and that usually works out about right.) | ||
| M2owner |
Mnscrounger, I believe S1owner said he can do it in about a half hour. | ||
| S1owner |
There is a way to do it without spreading the frame pm me if you want the info | ||
| Jolly |
I'll take a copy of the "how to" job guid? PM sent Thanks! | ||
| Dave |
PMs are hit and miss but I'm interested in any info on an S1 belt change with or without spreading the frame. thunder1200 at gmail dot com DAve | ||
| Mnscrounger |
S1: I would love to hear how to save a bunch of time, my e mail is morin at mcg dot net. You seem to be pretty skilled at posting cool pics of your mutant build, can you post the link here for the benefit of all? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm guessing this is the same procedure I used on my S3, which I found at the American Thunderbike site, which is now gone. Basically you drop the swingarm and carrier out of the frame and remove the old isolators. You use new fender washers or cut up the old isolators and use the washers to compress the new isolators so that you can replace the assembly back into the frame. It's probably a slower process than spreading the frame but less likely to screw up your frame. Here's a post on Badweb providing info on the process: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=166020#POST166020 | ||
| Gianni312 |
http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I've done these more than a couple of times... The "spreader" isn't so much spreading the frame as it is compressing the opposite isolator. It's been awhile but I was able to do them in about an hour without a table lift.. lots easier with a lift. I used the backing plate from an old iso to compress one side. Pull the bolt from the left side, use the plate (with a little rubber left on it to protect the paint on the frame) and a longer bolt. Crank it really tight to compress the iso, the opposite side about falls out. Repeat for the other side. Brad | ||
| Bluebueller |
The Scott Free method worked the best and easiest for me. After busting knuckles with the factory tool, and several other tools, the scott free method was a "slap your forehead" easy job. I didn't take too many good pics but if I can post them here, I will. I would say time wise, if you have it properly supported and the proper tools, it is a four hour job, and I'm with you Scrounger, double a pro's time and that is about my pace as well. | ||
| Bluebueller |
easier to post the pics here: https://flic.kr/p/AEQoGu This tool doesn't spread the frame, rather it compresses the left isolator so that you can insert the right isolator. note, you will have to remove the tool after removing the old iso to install the belt. but easy to do. (Message edited by bluebueller on November 03, 2015) | ||
| Lakes |
if the S&S belt that was on my m2 when i got it, breaks i will not replace!!! a chain goes on my bike. if a dog hiked his leg on me, i would not turn around so he could do it again to other leg!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lakes, it is your bike and your business, but cost wise, a properly adjusted belt on a tuber is generally cheaper in the long run then a chain (not even counting the chain conversion parts). I'm not against chains, I have 6 motorcycles out in the garage with chains right now. But I really like the belt drives I've had on my various Buells. Chains on a 90 HP bike will stretch and wear, as will the sprockets, and a good ones are not cheap. You have to oil them and clean them. You don't have any kind of cush drive when you do a conversion, which makes drivetrain parts wear faster and break easier. The two situations where the chain might be better is for racing (where you will be changing drive ratios often for different races and different tracks) and for people with a lot of time spent driving on gravel. The HD belts have always been the only good belts for the Buell's. I don't know of any good after market belts, and there are many truly awful ones. Just some shared experience, for what it's worth... | ||
| Lakes |
Reepicheep i had a Dyna twin cam 2001 95 C I D got it new and in 2002 took belt off put chain on used made in USA counter sproket 23t n 51 on rear wheel was lucky as had a friend machine everything up custom on my bike, had him also make an outrigger with sealed ball bearing support that moved the wheel bearing to close up to swing arm so axle has good support. got best chain there was , always cleaned it & lubricated it. well i road that bike & drag raced it up & down east coast of Australia between three large states. the roads have a lot of blue metal on them at times they just dump in over hot tar. if you ride 3,000+ kilometres over roads with blue metal on it it will have chewd your belt destroy the alloy rear pulley long before you compleat your journy. and the motor was putting out enough HP & TQ for me to run as quick as 11.2 121mph i'm not light & the bike was a road bike i road everywhere & felt a lot faster than my M2 just did not handle twisty's the same. well i covered 100,000 kilometres 60,000mile or close to that distance then a friend bought the bike & still has it n rides it so thats 14 years with same chain. in that time i saw a lot of other Dyna's snap the belts on the line drag racing. no doubt here in Australia the cost of getting picked up then replacement parts would have cost me a lot of $ not to mention lost time as i was on a tight schedule too. piece of mind in remote area's & a joining link in my pocket i have no doubt what i like! as never had the motor rev up & bike slow down & see that deeded black snake in rear view mirror! but saying that i've only had the m2 about 5 years and 40,000k's with only a few times at track so have not broke a belt but have had four new tires on the bike still have not ridden up & down the east coast of Australia on it just in two states so can't say when but when the belt breaks it does not get replaced!! | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Okay I'm finally getting around to doing the "Scott free" belt/iso change on my S3. I already have the special tool made, and I am to the point where I am removing the isolator bolts. They are big T60 torx head, and I'm sure they're lock-tite'd in. I've been working with a hammer impact drive tool for about an hour and a half, with no visible gain. I've double checked to make sure the cap screws running vertical through the swingarm mount are tight to prevent the bearing mount from rotating when I try to turn the isolator mounting screw. The end of the impact driver is mushroomed over from all the hammer hits, I've got blisters from the knurling, and I think the tool is near its end. I have new isolators, but do I really need to resort to fire to get them out? I'm considering buying an electric impact driver, but I'm afraid of destroying the drive in the head of the screw. How have the rest of you gotten them out? | ||
| Ebutch |
Use map gas torch on torex to heat and soften locktite and impact out.PS get them hot.  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
When I did my X1, I used a breaker bar with 1000 feet of pipe with my scrawny ass on the end. Heat will do up the locktite but the rubber and paint on close proximity would make me nervous to use a torch. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Gee Nate, a thousand feet of pipe? Leaving aside the question of where do you stand, wouldn't that weigh more than the bike? I'd attach the long lever firmly to the ground and use a jack or hoist to move the bike. With a fifth of a mile of pipe, the end would be hundreds of feet off the ground if you left the bike flat. You mask off the no-heat areas from heat like you would from paint by holding a heavy piece of steel between the protected area and the flame. Having an assistant helps since one hand is applying heat and the other is applying torque. Isn't that rubber going away as part of this process? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
A good paint stripper head gun could do the job to! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I all honesty, I think it was about 4 feet of pipe. With enough leverage, propping up the pivot point, and someone to hold the bike upright it wasn't really that hard for me. My bolt was 1/2" hex and not torx though. | ||
| S1owner |
Really have had no isdues taking these bolts out waith an impact! Now the front pulley nut thats a bear!!!!! | ||
| Mnscrounger |
bought a HF impact wrench, and a NAPA t60 bit last night (I didn't have a high degree of confidence in a Menards bit.) Map gas cylinder is full, if I get home from work early enough I'll give it a go tonight. | ||
| Hootowl |
I've never had to use heat to get these out. Breaker bar worked for me. I would imagine impact would work too. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Love my DeWalt 1/2" electric impact gun. Takes the rear axle nuts off my microbus. |
