| Author |
Message |
    
Sleez
| | Posted on Friday, February 23, 2007 - 12:16 pm: | 
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hey capndoug,
thanks for the input, i will attack this next week or so, still investigating some possible mods to a stock bracket to tie the two sides together ala nallin style, but way less than $240.00
i sure do miss riding in so cal, loved palomar! |
Sparky
| | Posted on Friday, February 23, 2007 - 08:28 pm: |
|
We miss riding with you too, Sleez. And the Doc, bigJ, the Birdman & Ferris. Ah well. At least, we are all still riding, right?
Sparky |
Sleez
| | Posted on Monday, February 26, 2007 - 12:10 pm: |
|
hey sparky,
yeah the whole group from early so cal buelling,
Jim Higgins (brought about the Higgins Vertical Position Sensor when he went down right in front of me on my first organized buell ride!), Tony Webb (what happened to tony?), Don Sabatino (the savage), Joel Chewning (Big J), Birdman (can't remember real name???), Steve Laufer (doc steve, who i still hear from once in awhile), Jerry Haughton (Ferris), The Barrister (can't remember his real name, rode "the tick" blue m2?), Gervais (sp?), and a few others i can't remember names of, there was a guy with a dark red 97 S3...and the other dude from SD who had the black S1W, i even went to his house a few times, can't remember his name either, he, dr steve and i rode palomar once, the fastest i'd ever ridden up to that time, i passed a gsxr 750 in the turns and finally dragged the right side peg on that ride. miss ortega a lot as well!!
(Message edited by sleez on February 26, 2007) |
Lake_bueller
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 05:31 pm: |
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Add one more to the list...broke my left bolt on the way to work this morning. It's a 1998 S3T. I'll get a ride home to get my trailer. I don't want to take the chance with the right side!! |
Knickers
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 12:54 pm: |
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And another bites the dust. 2000 S3 with 20K miles. Left bolt fractured at the head, the right bolt, mount, and head casting appear to be intact. What is the verdict on repeat failures? Has anyone had a problem after installing the nallin mount?
I'm debating whether or not to just replace the fractured bolt and leave the rhs well enough alone.
(Message edited by knickers on September 05, 2007) |
Mikej
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 10:50 am: |
|
S&S makes a mount too.
page 29 of the Sportster/Buell catalog:
http://www.sscycle.com/iframes/catalog.php
Ensure you have the latest procedure for messing with the mount and mounting bolts. |
13was13
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 03:54 pm: |
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Has anyone ever tried pulling the remains of a broken bolt out without taking the mount off? |
Diablobrian
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 06:21 pm: |
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Try a left hand twist drill bit. They aren't terribly common, but the combination of the heat
from drilling and the torque of the drill motor have helped me remove many broken off bolts
and studs when i was working in a machine shop.
If you have a piece of the bolt protruding you may be able to weld a nut on it to turn it
out as another option.
EZ-outs work pretty well if that's what you have available, just be careful that you do not
break the tool off in the hole. That is very bad news if you do. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 11:49 pm: |
|
I would NOT try pulling it out without removing the mount. You don't want to risk elongating the mount hole.
Use one of these shallow grip screw extractors:  .
A cobalt left hand drill bit for it isn't a bad idea, but if you get the hole into the bolt, then heat into that hole with a plumbing torch, and then use the screw extractor, it'll come right out.
See
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?Re qTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=2781&RelatedCtlgPgs=2780,27 81,2782&term=Screw%2bExtractors&sesnextrep=2310187 2397964&ScreenWidth=1152&McMMainWidth=932 |
13was13
| | Posted on Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 01:36 pm: |
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I actually pulled the bolt halfway through the mount (before the "easy out" snapped). It worked quite well to use the mount together with a drilling jig to get a centered hole into the bolt. |
Gasaxe
| | Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2008 - 08:29 am: |
|
My front mount failed in the prescribed way :-L/H bolt sheared,followed by R/H alloy mounting leg snapping.The L/H bolt was oxidised into the mount,making it appear to be intact,I think that the bolt could have been broken for some time.
I would suggest that as part of PPM you guys give the two mounting bolts a tweak with a torque wrench set at less than the full torque ( to avoid disturbing the mount if it is O.K. )just to make sure the bolt arn't just held in place by oxidisation
Lee |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2008 - 11:42 am: |
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Be careful with this..you don't want to break the loctite that is holding the bolt if it is indeed intact.
I check for two bolt heads on the tube frame front mount as part of my pre-flight. It saved my butt on one occasion, as BOTH bolts were broken once on my S3. But with the NRHS mount, the issues appears to be behind me. I still check though.
Al |
Gasaxe
| | Posted on Saturday, March 22, 2008 - 01:11 pm: |
|
Al
Yes I agree thats why I suggest Setting the torque wrench at less than the required torque,by the way, what is it supposed to be, my manual just says not to disturb unless necassary,I think snapping counts as necessary.
Is the NRHS mount a cure,I am considering buying one but at £150 it needs to be the final solution, |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 11:51 am: |
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It's more than just a torque setting, it's a special procedure.
motor oil on the washer/bolt head interface, red loctite on the CLEAN degreased threads, never the two shall meet. Torque the bolt to 60 ft-lbs, loosen one full turn, re-torque to 60 ft-lbs.
If you remove an installed bolt, throw it away.
Al |
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