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Archive through September 12, 2014Mitchg30 09-12-14  11:15 pm
         

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Zew2888
Posted on Friday, September 12, 2014 - 11:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Im hoping! I may just change the plugs for the hell of it. I just hope that maybe Autozone or a car place might have them.
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Tbowdre
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With the EBR ECM and the OEM ECM having the same drivability problems I would say the ECM is NOT your problem. I've run multiple ECMs with multiple different exhaust systems and none had drivability issues that I could tell just riding around.

Seems like you are on the right track with the injectors… you can simply apply a 12V source directly to the injector to open them up and blast'em clean with TB cleaner. Don't leave them open but pulse them for only a couple seconds at a time.

Edited to say: I saw your post for the EBR ECM calibrated for the RT3 pipe in the classifieds.... Is that the ECM Dean recommended you run with the RT4? If so I would believe him…. Dean know his sh!t… just my 2 cents

(Message edited by tbowdre on September 13, 2014)
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Stevel
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 05:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are groping in the dark. It makes no sense to apply ANY corrective action until you know what is happening. This could be many things, including a simple air leak. Go to a dyno shop that can employ a data logger or buy your own. Then and only then you can make intelligent decisions. Until then, you're just pissing in the wind.
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D_adams
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 06:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've run both the full system ecm and the RT-3 one on pretty much every configuration I've ever built and did it for extended periods of time. I've also looked at the fuel cells for both, the RT-3 actually called for a little more fuel around 7k rpm than the full system did. I never looked at the timing maps, they could be slightly different. Either way, I ran both on all of mine (including a stock pipe for a few weeks) and never had the popping issue except for when I had a stock ecm in it. That ended up giving me the F-R-sys error for the AFV spread being too wide to compensate for.

I'd ask them to flash it to the full system programming, it's done on a bench and takes a few minutes to do. They've done it in the past numerous times, I don't see why they wouldn't do so now. It used to be $25+ shipping, last I heard it was now $95+ shipping and no "custom options" for tunes like reduced engine braking, lowered idle or anything else.
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Stevel
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 07:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As a follow up to my last post, the air leak I referred to was an exhaust air leak not an intake leak. The popping sound is ignition of unburned fuel in the exhaust. Look for an air leak on the primary side of the collector.
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Zew2888
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I posted up the ECM just to see how much of a difference it would be to sell it rather then spend 100 dollars on a reflash.

And I'm not groping in the dark, (I appreciate your negativity) I know what the popping is, I have no exhaust leaks, if you would have read my first post. I am just needing further assistance of what route to take and seeing who else has had similar issues.
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Stevel
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not being negative. Buying parts, re-flashing or any other action you take is potentially throwing your money away if you don't know what is causing the popping. A rolling road test on a dyno with AF analog sensors in both pipes will tell you right away what's going on. Otherwise, you're just guessing. Just because someone else has had a similar problem doesn't mean it is the cause of yours.
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Zew2888
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2014 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I suppose luckily for me I have about 8 sets up the required plugs and a full can of throttle body cleaner. Not really throwing much money at it. The reflash will be the last night I do, besides running it on a dyno and paying maybe triple the cost of a Reflash. Following someone else's experience with the same problem though could give me some insight on anything else that I may not be thinking about.
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