| Author | Message | ||
     Brianbuell |
I have a 2002 M2 cyclone and I just put on a force winder intake and a D&D slip on and jet kit. Took it for a test-drive and shifted hard into second and snap went the belt. With a whole 5500 miles on the bike. The question is there anything I should know about putting a new belt on. A trick or whatever any advice would be greatly appreciated. THANKS..... | ||
| Darthane |
-=evil chuckle=- | ||
| Tripper |
Warranty. | ||
| Crusty |
Belts aren't covered by warranty. It's a pain in the ass job. There are 2 methods of changing the belt. The factory method that's in the service manual, or the method Jay Hawley at ATC came up with. Both are time consuming. Personally, I prefer Jay's method (which involves pulling the swingarm) over the Factory method (which involves lifting the frame off the engine). Whichever method you choose, you'll have a better understanding of how your bike is put together when you're done. Consider it an educational experience(You'll learn new and better ways to cuss!) | ||
| Ray_maines |
Actually, there are at least three ways to do the job. My son and I used a 4' crow bar to spread the frame just enough to get the isolator out (That's further than you might think). Then the new belt goes in, then you grease the isolator and slip it back in. Huge pain in the butt AND time consuming. I think what I learned from the experience is that I should have bought a X1 with the removable side plate. I had kept a pretty good attitude about my "kit bike" Buell until the belt broke. After that it was pretty much downhill. Be sure to read this: i'm in the middle of a nightmare m2 belt replacement edited by ray_maines on July 11, 2003 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Brian... if you broke a belt that early, you either got really unlucky and picked up a rock, or your belt was adjusted too tight. The only really good way to do it is what I believe Henrick suggested, remove the shock and move the swingarm through it's entire range of motion and make sure the belt is not binding. If you don't do that, the alternate method is just to adjust it "scary loose". I have tried the factory method several times, and it inevitably ends up with a belt that I can feel binding when I really bottom out the suspension. Now I just do the "scary loose" thing... it slaps the top of the swingarm. | ||
| Brianbuell |
What should the belt tension be? | ||
| Ray_maines |
Loose! Looser is gooder. | ||
| Aaron |
Bill and Ray are steering you right. Most common thing in the world, too, is to get your bike back from a Buell dealer with a WAY overtight belt. It's amazing how many techs assume it's the same tension spec as a Harley. It's not even close. | ||
| Hoser |
Aaron is right , many times I have had to loosen belts that arrived too tight courtesy of another dealership or the owner getting bad advice from his softail riding pals and then tightening it up not knowing the potential problems that can result from running with a tight drive belt. Loose is good , you should see how loose a chain drive has to be set up !!! , it used to spook me but I'm used to it now. I did a belt replacement today opting for the swing arm block removal method instead of my usual lift the frame , it went quickly due to my teqnique becomine more refined , having exactly the right tools at the ready and having assistance when the swingarm assy was being slipped up between the frame rails. | ||
| Johnc |
Hoser I did my belt recently using the swing arm block removal method. My biggest problem came trying to spread the frame enough to get the right isolator back in. Do you use the factory tool as described in the service manual or some other method? I made a tool that works like the factory one but I was not happy with the results. I ended up removing the shock and muffler and using a hydraulic jack between the foot peg bracket to spread the frame a little, then using the tool I made to force the swing arm to the left so the right isolator would go in. By the way, let me know the next time you're going to Stratotech to race since I didn't make it the last one due to the weather. | ||
| Smoke |
i hang the back of the frame, with tail section plastic removed from an overhead rafter in my shed. secure front end in chock to prevent side movement. when reassembling, i use two thin, flat .030 stainless strips as guides on isolator to frame and lower frame onto swingarm. the frame spreads itself equally as it slides onto the isolators. just pull the flat metal strips out before the frame is all the way down. belt or isolator swap in about three hours. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Very cool smoke. Sounds like a method somebody else was recommending here using washers and bolts to compress the isolators. Both sound like a nice elegant approach, and yours needs fewer and less critical parts. | ||
| Nakdv2 |
Mac tool`s sell a special tool used to collapse left side isolator just enough to allow right side to fall out. Tool is installed between frame and swingarm block just above right footpeg. once isolator is removed, remove tool and the belt will slide between frame and swingarm mount. There are a few more small step`s but that is the jist of it. Total job time 1 to 1.5 hr`s. I have a part number at work and can post monday if needed. K-D also makes one for H-D but is harder to come by. Ron  | ||
| Hoser |
John: I'm not in favor of spreading the frame , or using the shitty tool available from the factory , Compressing the isolators is safer and easier for me , I have done belt and isolator r&r many times , Most of the time lifting the frame up , removing the swing arm block only if an assistant is available to help ( which is not often ), it's a bitch to do alone   | ||
| Johnc |
Hoser, ok now I'm really curious! How do you compress the isolators and get the harware out after the frame is in place on the swing arm block? If it's not giving away a trade secret!!!! John | ||
| Hoser |
You only have to compress them .100" or so , once the swing arm mounting block is in a position to hold the isolators in place , remove the compressing bolts , no secret. A few more pictures and description in the knowledge vault. | ||
| Johnc |
Hoser, I went to the K/V and checked out your pics. I sure wish I'd seen this before I did mine! Very smart idea, thanks alot. Next time I'll know better. It sure would be nice if this method was in the service manual or at least under a seperate heading in the knowledge vault as it sure looks like it saves alot of head scratching. Thanks again, John | ||
| Hoser |
Hey John : A handy guy like you should build one othese cradles for use in engine removal/installation , belt/isolator service. Next time you are in Calgary call me and do visit !!.    | ||
| Johnc |
Hoser, sounds good. I'll stop in at the shop next time down, maybe buy you a soda! See you, John | ||
| Brianbuell |
Well I lucked out my buddy works at a Kawasaki shop so we got it after hours. It took almost four fun filled hours and it was done. So help me god it was a good time! I can wait a good long time for that experience again. We removed the swing arm and block; those isolators were the biggest problem. Thank you so much for your advice. I was actually doing the drive belt as you guys where posting. Your advice helped out tremendously, I couldn’t have ever guessed that replacing a drive belt would be such an undertaking. With the jet kit, pipe and air intake the old Buell is running a million times better. How do you guys like the fancy wood stands. | ||
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| Crusty |
It WAS educational, wasn't it? | ||
| Brianbuell |
It was very educational. |
