| Author | Message | ||
     Jack_lawman |
Is this a straight up job? Anybody have a line on a bracket recall kit? Should I guess I should do the front isolator when I'm in there? Tips? Tricks? Thanks for any help. http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_131814.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_131713_001.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_131841.jpg | ||
| 651lance |
We can still get the bracket from HD and we have the font mount in-stock. The front bracket number is L0149.CB and I can get you a new one for $118 plus shipping. The front motor mount is $42.00. The replacement of the mount and the bracket is fairly easy and can be done with regular hand tools. You'll also need a front mount bolt AA0722.1CBZ. You should also address the broken exhaust stud while fixing this issue. Looks like the stud is broken off flush with the head and you might might need to remove the head, you might not have to if you have the right tools and a lot of luck on your side. | ||
| Jack_lawman |
I think I got lucky on the stud. Looks like it just shook out. There's about 19mm from the face of the head to the bottom of the recess, so I'm guessing there's no piece of the stud left in there. I just need a new one. I can't tell if the bottom isolators are shot (I think at least the left one is) or if they're just cocked because the engine is twisted. What do you think? http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_151203.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_151310.jpg http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy14/jacklawman 2013/20160106_151324_001.jpg | ||
| Hootowl |
They're both hosed from what I can tell. One obviously torn. It's just as easy to replace both as it is one. The new ones will last forever. Well...a long time, anyway. | ||
| 651lance |
Remember when you take your header off to replace your exhaust gaskets. I would stay away from the thin performance gaskets, stay with the tapered ones. With the headers in short supply and them cracking if put in stress use the tapered ones for less stress. Don't make the mistake that most people do and keep reusing old exhaust studs, they will lose their locking ability and loosen up on you and can break off the studs. | ||
| Jack_lawman |
Thank you for all the help. I'm going to have to replace all three isolators. Is it recommended to do the front first or the rears first? I plan on using the technique with a special tool where you don't have to dismount the engine. | ||
| 651lance |
Buell has a tool for the install and its useless, it breaks vary easy. I've seen mac tool or matco tools made a install tool. Just replace all three, do the front or the rear first, it doesn't matter, just do all of them. | ||
| Hootowl |
I would do the rear first. Bad rears may harm the front isolator, since the frame will not be held in the right position, which could put the front in a bind. | ||
| Blks1l |
Is the mounting boss on the head still in good shape, in the first picture it looks like where the bolt was broke the mount may have been chafing the head and it may not be smooth, or parallel to the other now. I have a head at my house that did the same thing and think it would require machining to match them back up again. | ||
| Ebutch |
A Blast From The Past www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/4863 36.html?1250857010 (Message edited by ebutch on January 07, 2016) | ||
| Ebutch |
Use Scott Free Tool It WORKS !!!!! www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/76958 0.html?1441667916 Scroll down to Hootowl Post |
