| Author | Message | ||
     Chadwixk |
Thanks for taking a stab. If it was the battery though, would that affect the bike while running (it died while I was driving)? Isn't all power during running come from the alternator? Also the batter is readying a steady 12.7v, is it possible to put out those volts and not be able to supply the necessary amps to turn over? Some of the other things seem to also point to some sort of shorting, but then again, you'd think that one of the fuses would blow.....? Looks like I'll be taking it to the shop  | ||
| Reepicheep |
It is absolutely possible, and in fact normal, for the battery to read 12.7 volts with no load, but not be able to deliver any power. Power is voltage times current. What fails in a battery is the ability to deliver power. Delivering 12.7 volts with no current is delivering zero power. When you ask it for power, and it can't deliver it, what you see is the voltage dropping down to zero. You said that as soon as you put a load on the battery and try to deliver power, then the battery voltage went to zero. What I am saying is that if this happens, and the bike is not on fire, then one of three things has happend. 1) The battery is shot, won't take a charge, and therefore has no power to deliver. 2) The charging system is shot, won't deliver a charge to the battery, and it bled down running the bike and now has no power left to deliver. 3) The place you stuck the probes to measure power is a flakey connection, like a bad ground or internal break in the wire. This is either keeping the battery from charging, or keeping the battery from delivering. You really still can't say for sure which of the three it is above without a little digging. If the battery is shot, it could be loading the electrical system down so far that there is not enough power to keep the bike running. If the charging system is shot, well, thats obvious, the battery ran out of power to run the system. A bad connection would mimic a bad battery, though I would think it would not make the bike die once you managed to get it running, though it is possible the engine does not deliver enough power at low rpm's to keep itself running without a battery as a storage device. It should be really easy to diagnose though. If it were me, I would do the following. I bear no responsibility if you weld something to something else, or blow something up. You probably won't, but you could if the wrong wire hooks up to the wrong place. The best and safest approach would be to just pull the battery from the bike, throw it on a trickle charger, and see if it charges up. Careful with some of the big car chargers, they can bake a battery, you will hear the electrolyte "boiling". My local auto zone has a "free charging of your battery in an hour", but I don't know how smart their machines are or if they will bake a bike battery. The next safest approach would be to pull the battery from the bike, put it aside, then *carefully* run jumper cables from my car battery to the bike (car off, battery out of the car if you want), and see if it starts up normally. This does not tell you if it is the charging system or the battery, but should convince you that the problem is not some sort of short on the bike (which I don't think it is). Once you get the bike running this way, tape the leads of a voltmeter to the battery terminals / jumper cables, and rev the engine. If the battery shows the same voltage with or without the engine running, and with or without the engine revving, then the charging system on the bike is the problem. In these cases, if your meter is sensitive enough, you can generally watch the battery discharge on your meter as the bike runs. Obviously, this means the charging system... well... isn't. What I would probably ***not*** do is jumper a car battery right to the bike battery. If the bike battery is failing, and has some sort of internal short, then there is nothing to limit the current flowing from the car battery to the bike battery. A car battery can deliver an astounding amount of current, far more then is necessary to turn a internally shorted bike battery into a grenade. If I was stranded somewhere and had to do this, and did not suspect a short in the bike battery, I would hook up the jumper cables to the bike battery first, and then get as far out of the blast zone as possible when hooking the other end of the cables up to the car. They hardly ever blow up, but it's an easy risk to avoid. A few others here have found internal breaks in the battery connection terminal wires. Look for that as well. I only suggested the battery in the previous post, because *all* batteries eventually die, it is the way of things. And the age of your battery is right around the time where many start failing. edited by reepicheep on August 15, 2003 | ||
| Chadwixk |
Reepicheep, Thanks for the in depth commentary! I removed the battery, hooked up jumper cables from my car to the bikes leads, and she fired right up! I was suspicious at first because I've never had a car quit running because of a dead battery, but what you said was probably the case, the battery was causing quite a load on the charging system and I was at low RPM when it died. Thanks again for your help! Chad | ||
| Hootowl |
Something to keep in mind... I have NEVER charged a motorcycle battery with a car charger that I didn't have to replace a month later. Use a trickle charger that puts out no more than 1.5 amps. Your battery and your wallet will thank you. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good! Glad I could help. You still don't know for sure if it is the battery or the charging system though... but in all likelyhood it is the battery, just based on statistics. Did you look with a volt meter to see if the voltage across the battery went up when the bike was running and rev'd? If it did, then the charging system is probably solid. If the voltage just keeps slowly dropping as long as the bike is running, then it is the charging system. Good luck! | ||
| Chadwixk |
Yeah I checked the charging system. It's putting out 14.5v or so and the new battery is only 13.6v when the bike is not running. So turns out, it was something simple. | ||
| Rookie |
I looked through the archives and really didn't find what I'm looking for...I just put a set of those tiny turn signals from Lockhart Phillips on the front and rear of my M2. When I hit the switch, they blink faster and the solenoid(?) clicks loudly. The lights had 2 wires but they are both black(possibility of them being hooked up backwards?) I'm also burning up tailights now which started after the lights were put on. Any suggestions would be great. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Biggest problem with the Lockhart lights is they don't draw enough current. I had to switch them out on my S2 so the flasher would work. You shouldn't have a problem with polarity. The bulb doesn't care which direction the current flows. You may try to find different bulbs for the Lockharts or switch to a higher voltage bulb. You can also wire a resistor in line with one of the wires. I'd have to calculate the value, depending on the bulb currently in the light. I have one in the garage, I'll take a look and see which bulb it uses. I didn't really like the looks of them, I siwtched all 4 to X1 type. Less than $7 each. Brad | ||
| Rookie |
Would the resistor remedy the tail light problem also? Does it matter where the resistor goes as long as it's in the circuit? Questions,questions, questions. | ||
| Tornado |
The odometer on my 99 M2 seems to read about 20% high, but my speedometer is close to actual. Is this possible? Has anyone ever dealt with this? | ||
| Duck |
Any help would be appreciated: Bike was running fine all weekend. Stopped at work, came back out and bike wouldn't start. Starter is okay and turning the motor over. Checked plugs and wires. Checked vent hose on gas tank. Both the side stand switch and the safety switch at the clutch have previously been disabled. Checked both and they are okay. She still won't start. Any ideas?? | ||
| Road_thing |
Duck: Do you have spark at the plugs? r-t | ||
| Thunderbox |
Putting a resistor will cause the lights to draw less amperage. Remember ohms law. I=E/R. Increasing resistance decreases amperage. The lights will also be dimmer because the voltage is shared between the 2 resistors. Series circuit law V=Vdrop1+Vdrop2 | ||
| X1glider |
Ooops, posted this inthe wrong place before. One more time: Anyone have any problems with the odometer/trip meter on the tube framers? My X1 trip meter keeps resetting itself, mostly when I restart the bike, but sometimes while it's running. Changed out the speedo unit and the problem is still there. Harness checks out ok. Maybe another speedo unit will do the trick. Good thing I have an extended warranty. If anyone knows anything, e-mail me thru my profile, I won't be on here again for a LONG time. | ||
| X1glider |
Fuel light on the X1 isn't working either. Bulb is ok. Sensor that's mounted to the pump? Two problems now...it'd be nice to know how much gas I have when I'm putzing around. Tried looking in the tank while I'm riding but the fuel sloshes around too much!  Once again, e-mail me if you have an answer. Thanks. | ||
| Mbsween |
Anyone know if the voltage regulator on the 2001 X1 and a sportster is the same? The x1 part no is 74567-98Y. Would the part no for the sportster be the same? I'm thinking I need one sooner than later, the local shop never has Buell parts..... Costs? Thanks in advance Matt | ||
| Leeaw |
Cost is $89. I asked today when I was getting a new battery. I believe the VR is the same for a Sporster but my dealer was out of the Buell part. | ||
| Leeaw |
With all this knowledge here, I could some help. My M2 is not charging the battery properly. Bought a new battery and still only getting about 12.8v across the battery terminals. I did a few multimeter checks. Last time my voltage regulator went, I was getting a reading from both the stator resistance and AC output. This time, I am getting a zero reading for both AC output and resistence check, where they should be between 38-52v AC and RX between 0.2-0.4. Is my stator dead, and how much will the whole thing cost for parts and labor? I was in the midst of getting the bike ready for sale as my new Firebolt has taken over, and I already spent $500 on tires, and servicing. I am not employed at the moment and cannot afford another $400+ cycle bill. It is hard enough to sell a Buell in the first place, but you thinkit is possible to sell it like this for something like 3 grand? It is in good shape barring a few slight scratches on the tank and has 17K miles, pipe, forcewinder, tank and tail bag, new tires, S3 fairing setup. I am afraid I will have to just park it for the winter and let it sit and rot, which is not what I want to do. Got any ideas? | ||
| Lee |
Fellas, Has anyone tried mounting XB headlight assembly to say an X1? If so, how much of a pain was it? Can it be done? Well I suppose anything CAN be done, but you know what I mean......... Any info greatly appreciated! Lee | ||
| Alnagy |
Electrical Disturbances: UFO's or CIA? Hmmm... Was riding home from work and started to pass what looked like an orange picker's van, when my 2000 M2 started cutting out (about 3500 rpm) and the guages (speedo and tach)started flip-flopping from peg to peg. Got around the van and backed off to 3000 rpm and got home with no more problems. Put the battery on a 1 amp trickle charge for a couple of days (48 hrs) and will reproduce the failure conditions ( I need to find that van), when I get a day off. Can a low battery cause these conditions or is something else going on??? Thanks in advance - Al | ||
| Chadwixk |
Al, Yes you can see from my previous posts on this page that I had similar problems. I was just riding, then the speedo and lights flickered and the engine skipped a little. I was riding at low RPM. I continued to ride OK, then about 30 minutes later, I was going slow at real low RPM and then the bike stalled, unable to restart... It was just the battery. Mine is an 02 M2 as well. If you haven't replace the battery yet, that would almost be a definite bet. Good luck. Chad | ||
| Stubby |
All. Bike was running well the other day, maybe a couple of stutters upon leaving a stop light, but no problems. Wake up yesterday morning, won't start. BAttery dead as Jim Jones. So I go and buy a battery tender and hook it up. Battery not even taking a charge. Disconned from the bike, still no charge. Battery tender works just fine on car battery, so that's not broken. So I jump the battery and the bike starts. Soon as I disconn the jumper cables, it dies. Is this charging system issues, or is this simply a battery issue? Any ideas? Stubby. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Stubby, it is at least the battery, start there. A 2002 M2 is young for a dead battery, but stuff happens and these batteries have a hard life. My 2000 Cyclone would not fire up this morning. I will diagnose it properly tonight, but I suspect battery. It has been getting weaker and weaker over the past few weeks, and the colder it gets the weaker it sounds. Actually, I am suprised it lasted as long as it did... Mine is like a 4 or 5 year old battery with almost 20k miles on it now. It lived longer then the battery in my old Yamaha ever did. So for both Stubby and I... didn't somebody source a nice replacement battery that was like half the price if the Harley part? I know it has to be a special battery, like a glass matt something or other, but I thought somebody else sourced a good replacement. I know Rocket had a pretty red one  | ||
| Bomber |
if memory serves, your refering to the Odessy batery . . . .. I've seen em in Dennis Kirk and (I think) Custom Chrome | ||
| Ezblast |
I check my lights before going to work every day - everythings fine - I get to work and everything else is still working, however my tail light is totally dark - not working! I've got to try and fix this during lunch - any sugestions on what happened/fixes? Shucks - I just got the Red dialed in and now this - all help and sugestions will be greatly appreciated! Do you think I finally blew a bulb - one bulb does everything (braking and stoping? God Bless NAPA - 1157 - I'm on the road again - lol - to the dealership to pick up the right bulb (got 2) but the 1157 shined just not enough diference in light levels - still it kept me out of a ticket! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  edited by ezblast on October 09, 2003 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hey... not that I am complaining or anything, but I just called F&S Buell in Dayton for a price for the replacement battery for my M2, and they quoted under $80... which was like $50 to $100 less then what I was braced for. At this price I see no reason to go aftermarket, and will just get the OEM battery, it's a decent absorbed glass matt setup. My original battery went almost 20k miles, can't complain about that (given it's application). Thats better then my UJM Yamaha battery lasted. Either F&S quoted me the wrong price, or the Buell price is quite fair. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just a followup... that was the right price. Or they sold it to me for that much, anyway. Would have been a nice cheap day if there was not a Harbor Freight right down the street. Now how do I explain to the wife that I needed a dovetail cutting jig to fix a dead battery? | ||
| Hootowl |
New style of battery terminals use dovetail connectors, and rather than buying the ridiculously expensive OEM cables, you can buy bulk wire and put the ends on yourself. She might buy it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I used plan B.... "Good news honey, the battery was less then I expected, and I was able to drop by Harbor Freight and get the tools I need to build that kitchen table booth you wanted..." It worked. Now I just gotta figure where to put the dovetail joints on the kitchen table setup (they would probably actually make a lot of sense for the table base support frame)... | ||
| Stubby |
Welp, I bought a battery tender, and a new yuasa battery. Fit right in, and I DIDN'T have to spend a dollar at the local HD dealership. I plugged the tender in overnight and the battery shows a full charge. I rode it yesterday, got home, plugged it in again to make sure it is fully charged. I may have to take it by the dealership to make sure the charging system is up and running. I rode it for more than an hour yesterday, so I suspect that if the charging system is faulty in some way, it wouldn't have made that distance. B'sides, most of it was idling in city trafic. If the charging system was bad, it would have likely died in an hour of idling with the lights on and stuff I suspect? (HOPE actually). Oh well. Grab the wallet and RUN~! don't walk, to the dealership. Stub |
