| Author | Message | ||
     Jaredkuper |
I bought my Blast from a dealer in December in Colorado Springs (elev. 6000ft) with 500 mi. on it. It was one of their learner bikes that they used to teach the beginners riding course. I now drive it in Lubbock, TX (elev. 900ft-3,000ft) and it has 900 miles on it. My problem is that recently I have noticed that it is hard for me to get up to 75mph. I first noticed it on a cold day (45 F.) Before it would have no problem getting to 80mph and now it seems like it tires out before that. I am only 160lbs, so I think it should pick up better than that without having to add performance parts. I am wondering if I need to check gas flow, air flow, oil, timing, or something else. Other than the poor high speed performance it SEEMS to be running decently. This is my first experience with a carbureted engine, so I am not an expert there. Please let me know what could be causing this problem, before I get plowed over on the highway! | ||
| Sarodude |
This is gonna sound goofy - but first thing to make sure of is that you're not dragging the rear brake. I know of a couple of new Blast riders who actually siezed up their rear wheeel as a result of dragging. Another common malady is the intake boot. Lean running as a result of an intake leak will result in a power reduction as well as potentially leading to engine damage. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Saro's pretty right here - the only other thing would be if you've recently had it serviced and the adjusted the primary to spec - then your primary is too tight - needs to be let out a few more flats - if you check the procedure section you'll find several different ways to do this - pick the one that works for you. Use the WD test to check the intake boot - hope this helps and welcome to the board! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
1st guess-too tight primary chain. 2nd-crimped/clogged fuel tank vent line. Maladjusted rear brake is possible. Throttle cables loose or adjusted incorrectly. I doubt that a cracked/leaking intake boot would cause the high speed loss without affecting the low rpm running though. The last question (or first) would be, have you had or done anything to the bike since you got it? | ||
| Jaredkuper |
Haven't done a thing. I finally changed what I fear to be the original oil and filter (at 900 miles). I would have changed it the day I got it, but I had a HELL of a time getting a replacement filter. I tried the local HD dealer and they pretty much told me they didn't know anything about Buells, couldn't get the parts, and wouldn't look up the replacement to see if a HD filter was the same. After my filters from somewhere else (ironmachine.com) got lost in the mail (they were really cool about sending me some more) I finally got it done. So as a short version, no, I have not done a single thing to it... Yet! | ||
| Ezblast |
Right - so you got it in Colorado Springs - it may have been jetted leaner for altitude also - so you would be running a bit lean that way also, even if the jetting is totally stock, then I would be replacing the intake boot - there are several Texas dealers that sell stock parts over the net, and I'm sure one of our sponsors could help you as well. I'f I had bought it as a learner bike - that would be one of the few parts I would replace just because of its previous life, plug, and wire would be the other, you already did the oil change - lol - hope that helps - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do the WD 40 leak test before you randomly replace intake parts please! If it ran in okay in Texas, than something must have changed. Find out what the problem is before you just start replacing parts. Okay-changed oil-Do you have the correct amount of oil & weight in the bike? The manual is known to give the incorrect way to check it, and since it only takes about 1 3/4 quarts, its easy to overfill. PS The Blast will definitely do 80mph & more at your weight.90 should be attainable, topping out at 96mph! Got Warranty? | ||
| Ezblast |
The boots only a few bucks and easy to do - and chances are it may have been dropped a few times on that side - starting hairline cracks that could slowly grow later on - especially noticable in the cold - experience talking - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Jaredkuper |
I'm sure I have the correct amount of oil. I believe that I used 10W-50 or 20W-50 (whatever the manual recommends for good running in cooler temps) of Kawasaki air cooled engine oil. I took her out for a ride this morning. With outside air temp at 39F I was able to get up to 80, but it took about 30 seconds to accelerate from 70 to 80. I did not try to go past 80. I was just stopped by a cop yesterday, didn't want to press my luck again so soon. There's no way I was going to buy the warranty. The 12 month factory warranty had run out by the time I bought it, and they wanted $800 for the extended warranty. I was only paying $1995 for the bike (remember: learner, been dropped a few times, only cosmetic unless the boot took a hit). Anyway, I couldn't see paying almost 50% of the bike cost for a warranty. Especially when I live almost 3 hours from the nearest Buell dealer. I'm going out of town this weekend to a place that has a Buell dealership. I'm going to try to ride a new Buell to see if I see any real performance difference or if it's just in my head. | ||
| Blake |
Ralph, Some clarifications and questions... "Also..I sure hope you used either Harley oil in 20w50...or a premium MotorCycle-specific, not car oil in 20w50." Why? "But "FRAM" is one of the Worst Oil Filters in the World !" Why and according to who? "Your dealer may think twice about honoring the warranty if they see the "SuperTech" label on the oil filter..." In which case you should inform him that such a policy is blatantly illegal. On the 20W50 automotive oil issue... you might consider that only those automotive engine oils with a W30 viscosity grade or less (like 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 0W20...) are subject to the "energy conserving" and reduced emissions regulations. | ||
| Sarodude |
Calling Rodney King. -Saro | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sigh. C'mon Ralph... Blake can be a jerk just like any of us here, but in the post you were quoting he sure as hell was not. You might want to do a little (hard) research of your own before just going off on somebody. Blake was being nice, and pointing you towards the light. Start with the additive package, you are exactly right, it is the additive package, in addition to the viscosity, in addition to the underlying formulation of the oil. Go look up the additive package in Mobil 1 15-50 car oil, and explain to us what exactly would make it so inferior to non synthetic Golden Spectro motorcycle oil (which is nearly exactly the same price). Especially considering Buells do not have oil in the gearbox. Heck. Call golden spectro. Or Harley. Or even Mobil (ask them about their Mobil 1 V-Twin versus the 15-50 car oil). Ask them why the motorcycle oil is better. When they give you some happy BS about special forumlations and additive packages, push them to explain WHAT these are, and how they help. Keep pushing until you get a straight answer, something you could independently verify with a lab. Or ask those of us here that run Mobil 1 15-50 in both our Buell engines and in our Japanese inline fours (with wet clutches) and ask us what kind of problems we have had. Good luck  I actually agree with you about the Fram filters, at least the last time I looked into them, but if somebody asked me why, I would explain to them that the brand has a documented history of substandard components and inferior execution on many of their models, though seems to outsource supply of other perfectly good filters, but that I don't want to take the trouble to sort out which is which. I would not go off on the asker, it's a legitimate question. Then look up the Magnuson Moss act, and see what it says about requiring particular brands of consumable in order to keep a warranty intact. Once you find that act, go ask your Harley dealer for your free oil and filter before you next oil change and see how far you get. Or tell your local states attorney general what the dealer said, and ask them their opinion of it. Finally, estimate what it takes per month to run a website with moderate traffic. Figure at least 5 gigs a month of bandwidth, 4 gigs of disk space, management software, rack space for the hosting box, backup, domain registration fees, recovery, tech support, management software, redundant failover, etc etc. Hint: It sure as hell ain't your $50 per month cable modem. Oh yeah, and you have to run it for a few years first and build up traffic before a vendor will touch it, all on your own dime. If the sponsor money (prices were recently posted) covers more then 70% of Blakes actual out of pocket expenses, I would be very suprised (and I am in the bidness, I have a good idea of the costs). And that does not even begin to address the time, stress, liability and other intangible headaches associated with this sort of enterprise. | ||
| Ezblast |
Ouch! Ralph you make it hard to stick up for your point of view, even when correct, when you so blatently attack the other person. Such rebute is neither wanted or appreciated here. Please tone down the personal sarcasm, and keep trying to at least keep it semi - pleasant - lol - I know you two tick each other off worse than coon hounds at a furrier's wedding, still thats no reason to not be civilized about our disagreements. Now you two play nice! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  edited by ezblast on February 23, 2004 | ||
| Blake |
Ralph, Blake- Bite Me ! Go stick your nose where it belongs...usually up your @ss. You NEVER contribute anything here, and The only reason you're here now - is because "I" posted Links to my Yahoo Group ! You're an idiot Blake- Plain and simple... I'm here only to help people out...you're here to make Money off your website ! And to answer your questions- HA, if you don't know what the differences are in todays car oils compared to cycle oils... then your denser than we ALL suspected !!! (it's not the viscosity rating you idiot- it's the additive package) LOL...and if you don't know what happened to Fram filters when the company was sold several years ago...Then I ditto my last remark ! And my reply to your 3rd question/remark... What the F Blake... if a Dealer is so Pricky (like YOU) and gets his panties all in a Wad because he sees (what HE believes) to be an inferior Oil filter on the Bike... Then Screw Him...Take the Label off ! The Filters WERE made in the same factory, on the same Line and in the Same Lot #'s ! I did a search myself and found the company Making THEM ! And how much Research Do You Do !!!??? Bite me Blake ! It is very unfortunate that you see fit to carry on so here. No one who does so is welcome here. Your choice. Some facts of which you are obviously unaware... 1. I don't make a dime of profit from this site and it's five sponsors. In fact the site requires a significant investment of time and effort on my part and that of my fellow BadWeB custodians, like EZ. BadWeB will remain a grass roots site for Buell enthusiasts, sponsored by Buell enthusiasts. 2. I'm here intermittently as time permits and as subject matter draws me. In this case, I noticed your username and was interested in what, since your last tirade of hate-speach, drew you back to BadWeB and the Thumper Forum. As I recall, when asked nicely to cease trolling for traffic to your yahoo site, you freaked out then, much as you have done again above. As I recall you even forswore participating here ever again. Your choice, not mine. As a Blast enthusiast, you certainly have a lot to offer the Buell online community. Unfortunately, short of worship of your proclamations as if they are God's own words, you seem to have little tolerance for actual debate. 2. I do my best to maintain the factual/technical integrity of information posted on BadWeB. In my opinion, the information that you posted is grossly lacking in integrity; some of it is simply wrong/bad advice. 3. I do indeed know the difference between today's motorcycle oils and automotive engine oils. Do you? Apparently not. As I understand the situation, for viscosity grades of W40 and above, there are no meaningful differences between auto and moto engine oils. However, for viscosity grades of W30 and below, the automotive engine oils are indeed subject to more rigorous regulation concerning additives. Not so for 20W50 oils. My source? The engineering staff at Mobil Oil. Why the difference between regulations for lighter versus heavier engine oils? Because all modern automotive engines are now (and have been for some time) designed to use light weight (low viscosity) "energy conserving" lubricating oils. Most are now using 0W20 oils. The applicable emissions concerns wrt certain additives (ZnDP can degrade performance of some modern automotive emissions catalysts) relate to modern catalytic converters and the emissions integrity of the vast number of current and future automobiles. The emissions related oil additive regulations are simply not concerned with the extremely rare (compared to the quantity of "energy conserving" W20 and W30 engine oils in circulation) use of heavier non-"energy conserving" engine oils. Simply look on the bottle of any W40 or W50 oil. Try to find the "Energy Conserving" API starburst label. You won't find one. Neither will you find any harsh limitations on the additives allowed in the higher viscosity engine oils. Why? Because they are not permitted to be used in modern automobiles and the EPA in its wisdom recognizes that the rare use of such higher viscosity engine lubricants poses a negligible impact, and that some older automotive, many industrial and many recreational vehicle engines are designed to use those heavier oils with their higher concentrations of anti-wear additives. Since the environmental impact of their use is minimal, and since those vehicles do not use the high tech fancy automotive style catalysts in their converters (if they even have converters), the higher viscostiy oil is waved from having to comply with the additive restrictions place upon their lower viscosity counterparts. So that is why you can feel safe in using an automotive 20W50 motor oil in your Buell. Personally, I use Mobil-1 15W50. For those interested in the facts, I suggest you check out the online archives at Machinery Lubrication's online archives. Of particular interest, check out... http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518&relatedbook group=Maintenance 4. Fram sells a variety of filters, some better than others. To make a wholesale indictment of Fram filters as being "one of the Worst Oil Filters in the World" is simply untrue. To make such a claim here with no factual evidence to support it is simply unacceptable. 5. I've done a significant amount of research in the area of engine lubrication and oil filtration. I'm also a degreed mechanical engineer who is trained in the technical aspects of the field of machinery lubrication and who has years of experience in diverse fields, many of which involve lubrication systems subject to extreme operational demands. I'm also a regular subscriber to "Machinery Lubrication" In closing, it is painfully obvious to me that your purpose here is disingenuous. Apparently EZ has already had to edit some of your posts. Unfortuantely, I did not see their original content. Suffice it to say that if you want to advertise your yahoo site you are free to post a solitary link on the BadWeB "Links" page. But if you persist in trolling for traffic here, you will force my hand. Our sponsors do not benefit from the traffic generated at any yahoo site nor do they or I condone supporting the sponsors of a yahoo site as they provide no beneficial contribution to the Buell community. You are free to contribute and participate here, but not in a disingenuous attempt to draw BadWeB Thumper enthusiasts to another discussion forum. Your choice Ralph. Blake | ||
| Blake |
Back to the topic at hand... Jared, 1. In cold temperatures the viscosity of a 20W50 grade engine oil will significantly hinder the power output of an air cooled engine. Think of it as your engine trying to push the piston up and down in the cylinder with tar on the cylinder walls. 2. Colder temperatures will also cause a carburetor to run leaner compared to warmer days. If your carburetor was properly adjusted before, it will be slightly lean now and will cause a loss of power. 3. Cold air is more dense and blasting through it at 80 mph requires more HP to overcome the resulting aerodynamic drag compared to warmer less dense air. Of course if your carburetor is optimally tuned the denser air also provides more power to the engine, so this effect can be offsetting except in the case where #2 is a factor. 4. Most significantly, you are also probably wearing insulative clothing that will significantly increase your aerodynamic drag. More drag due to overstuffed insulative outerwear will very much hurt your top speed. All the above may be contributing to you noticed loss of peak speed. I do know a guy just north of Denver who would be more than happy to help you rectify that situation. | ||
| Blake |
And your point is...? | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
The EXACT same filter as OEM, but sold under Wal-Marts "SuperTech" brand name is SuperTech #4967 . But Don't use The "Fram" oil filter that carries the same #. Yes- it will also fit and is correct for the bike... But "FRAM" is one of the Worst Oil Filters in the World ! BTW- the "Penske" oil/air Filters sold at K-Mart are the exact Same filters as "Fram" and are made by them ! Just an FYI, as a former Wal-Mart TLE employee I can assure you the Supertech filters are made by FRAM (that is why the filter numbering is the same). The Supertech oil is made by Quakerstate. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - back to this other Texan's topic - I experienced the exact same thing you are experiencing with the red bike - a local racing budy clued me in to that being a boot crack just starting - acting underpowered and just having a hard time running till it warms up - then its fine, not my old predudice raising its head (don't like that damn boot - lol), sure enough I switched out the boot and problem solved. Since your 49 state I would also check and make sure your vacuum line plug is secure and not leaking - I assume they just rubber cap it - make sure that whole section of the carb is leak proof/tight and you should be ok. Also as earlier said - make sure your tank vacuum line isn't kinked or plugged also. Hope all that helps - you've just encountered what makes the BADWEB unique and why I enjoy being a part of it - the interplay of good folks from across the nation - all with a singular love? of a bike made by Erik Buell (whichever year and model - lol) and a passion for learning all we can about them (and of course the growth pains/friction that entails - lol). Just folks;0) - and funny enough in the end brothers (& sisters) - lol Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Jared-Sounds like you got a great deal,I wasnt sure if they gave you a new bike warranty(and,no,I wouldnt pay $800 for a warranty). Keep us posted after your'test' ride. I wouldnt think that (everything Blake posted) would have that much of an effect on running, but it makes some sense. Considering that putting a highly restrictive muffler on the Blast will knock the top speed down to 80mph,it doesnt take much to hurt its performance! | ||
| Blake |
Gearhead, "I wouldn't think that (everything Blake posted) would have that much of an effect on running..." Based upon what?  I'll happily provide proof if you really need to see it. It is all very basic physics and engineering. I of course agree that a leaking intake tract would also be something to check. Jared, To check for a leaking intake, start the bike and while it is idling spray WD40 or contact cleaner or even a fine mist of water all around the various intake tract between carburetor and cylinder head. If the idle speed drops momentarily as you spray, you have identified a leak. Most often the seal at the cylinder head is the culprit. The thing is that an intake leak like that will mostly only affect low speed partial throttle performance. The amount of excess air entering the intake tract is just way to small to affect performance at higher speeds and/or wide open throttle. You might simply try checking the intake tract to ensure it's cleanliness and integrity. I still hold that your loss of peak speed is due to the aforementioned cold weather issues. | ||
| Blake |
The good news is that the cold temps won't be around much longer.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Blake- I was not disagreeing! I meant I didnt think about that as having an effect probably since all my other bikes have had so much more power than the Blast that the cold temp difference was not noticable-and I never ran them wide open (especially at 35 degrees!!). The Blast is more noticably sensitive to having any loss of power. So,yes, what you said made sense! | ||
| Jprovo |
Wyckedflesh, Not to be an ass, but I've cut both the OEM filter and the Wal-mart filter and they are of the same manufacture (Champion Labs per the Wal-Mart box), they do not resemble the Fram filters that I looket at. The Fram had cardboard ends on the filter cartridge and the Champion filter had metal ends. I don't think that Allied signal (Fram) is making Wal-Mart's filters any more, Champion Labs is. FYI, Pics of the ones I cut up are somewhere on the Badweb. James | ||
| Ralphthe3rd |
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| Ezblast |
Looks the same to me! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jaredkuper |
I did the WD test and didn't find anything. My intake looks good and clean. I changed the spark plug and the wire looks good. Took it for a drive and it seemed to be running pretty good. It was also 65 deg so it's hard to tell if it was the temp or the plug. Whatever. I guess I really am a BadWeather biker if I'm riding on the highway at 35 degrees. It rained last night though and I wussied out. 35 degrees is one thing, 35 and wet is another. When looking for the primary adjustment instructions I found that I was having some of the same shifting problems some other people were reporting when they had that one screw loose. So I'm going to check that sometime. Other than that it's good enough I suppose. Thanks for your help everyone. | ||
| Ezblast |
Usually when you do your primary that first time, you'll also change out your primary oil - go to synthetic and your shifting will improve noticably, and even with regular, after 5000 miles the bike shifts a lot smother than new - she gets smoother as she is broken in, but synth really is a noticable difference. Great! On everything else - its all good - enjoy the ride! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Newblaster |
So it really does get smoother with time and miles... I thought it was just me getting better. lol... | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
What would everyone recommend as primary oil? Just going by everyones experience. | ||
| Ezblast  |
Mobil 1 GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Redline! | ||
| Swampy  |
Mobile 1. The Big Kid smoked the clutch(Don't ask me how?) to the point it wouldn't move using HD Sportrans! I pulled the cover looking for bad parts found none buttoned it up and put Mobile 1 in it and its as good as new! Go figure? Then we went on a trip to Copper Harbor no problems. |
