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Archive through August 08, 2008Froggy30 08-08-08  07:46 pm
         

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Xbimmer
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

10 gauge (not counting the connectors) is rated for 55 amps for chassis use. So you could be on the edge, but you are pretty close. It would probably work.

The connectors may be an issue, they may be able to carry less current then the wire. They clearly have less volume...


Once again, I'm not schooled in the science, but I found my old V/R and the wires to the 77 are 10AWG, so I'm assuming my SAE rig will flow fine.

The spade terminals in the Packard 77 ARE the problem due to fatigue and poor contact as a result. And, once again not the expert, I did learn recently while discussing a relative's A/C problem with a contractor that apparently electricity flows along the surface of the conduit not through it, was I ill-informed?

Don't know, that's why I ask YOU guys!

The '08's do have a connector for the battery, but it's not a 77-type Packard. Found that out in the dealer's '08 Parts Catalog a few months ago when I noticed their '08's had the V/R lead disappear behind the LSS. You guys may be safe in that regard.

So now that you got me concerned Reep since the SAE connector was only $5 think I'll get a second and cut one half open, that's still leave me a half to splice onto a new spare V/R anyway.

(Message edited by xbimmer on August 09, 2008)
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Darthane
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, I know it has to be broken somewhere, but I was too lazy to look at the wiring diagram and I'm just busy in general getting ready for my camping trip.

...some other day!

Electricity simply follows the path of least resistance.

(Message edited by darthane on August 09, 2008)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recall hearing an anecdotal story in school that very high frequency (i.e. Gigahertz) signals will indeed travel on the "outside" of a conductor. To the point where I think some of the radar setups use tubes instead of wires.

I don't think it's true of the lower frequency stuff though, so unless your Buell has a 18,000,000 RPM redline, I think you are golden. Though I believe Yamaha is advertising that as the redline for next years R6 ; )
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Lost_in_ohio
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Microwave communication use hollow copper tubes called waveguides to hook to the dish. I spent some time on top of towers replacing them. The have a vacum pump and if they spring a leak it is over.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waveguide_(electromag netism)



Yes the bulk of the current does travel on the surface of he conductor that is why stranded wire has a higher current carrying capacity than solid wire. it is called skin effect.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect
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Jlnance
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2008 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recall hearing an anecdotal story in school that very high frequency (i.e. Gigahertz) signals will indeed travel on the "outside" of a conductor. To the point where I think some of the radar setups use tubes instead of wires.

yes, AC signals tend to travel on the surface of a conductor. As lost_in_ohio notes, this is called the skin effect. The frequency does not have to be all that high before this effect becomes noticeable.

The hollow tubes you are referring to are called waveguides. The mechanism of how signals flow in a waveguide is different that a signal going down a wire. It's actually a radio wave propagating inside the waveguide. The guide just keeps it in place.
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Pso
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

getting back on focus, what would be a good substitute for the #77 connector? Would that SAE rig work? Also is it the connector that goes bad and not the VR? Seems as if the Hardley wrenches just replace the VR but I have not heard from anyone in the know from the factory if the VRs go bad or if it is the connector.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The connections in the 77 can go bad, then the VR will fail, at least mine did.


Fried 77-connector


Had to cut it apart.

I don't see any reason my SAE connector won't work, but that's why I asked the more electrically knowledgeable guys here.
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Red_chili
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your SAE connector is at the top of my list of options, as a preventative measure, at least... I use them all the time and have found them very reliable.
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Pso
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So Xbimmer-do you think our VRs fail because the plug goes bad? I have heard it is because the stator puts out too much juice, or that the VR cannot handle all the current, or that the stator goes bad because of useing the wrong primary fluid. I believe fatty said that he would just get his staor rewound if it went bad. It sure would be nice if the factory folks would chime in so I can take approprate action now that my warrenty has expired.Before warrenty expiration, I would just let BMC eat the cost and do the work. In addition to doing away with the plug I understand that the 08 models have gone to a different stator that does not put out so much juice. From what I have heard the factory is stepping up to the plate with the bearings and I sure do hope they come out with the improved ones by my next tire change, I just hope that their fix for the electrical gremmlins is not an updated system on the 08's and subsequent iterations and ignoring the 06 and 07 loyalists that got them on the Uly map.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe the issue was the connector more than anything. Yes other things can cause them to fail, but I point my finger at the connector.

I am sure there is a long technical answer to why they switched to a lower output stator, but personally I wish they hadn’t. Hell I would get an even more powerful one if I could get it.
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Buelldualsport
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Retro fit the 06/07 to the 08/09 for more power?

Might be the solution, with an upgraded connector.

YRMV

Buells to Alaska ALCAN 5000 2010
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Pso
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy - Thanks I also like the power for all my electronics and lights. Now I wish they would come up with a factor swap out for the plug. That would be steppig up to the plate again. Their postion on the bearings is sure refreshing after the Stonewalling BMW seems to be giving the world about the final drive. That corporate position of deny everything, is why I will never purchase a BMW and I also talked my Fiance into junking hers and getting an Scg. I also will not purchase a Ford because of their postion regarding the Pinto. Anyway my 2 cents. Now to get the SAE connectors. I was going to go with the split nut connectors as posted awhile back, but I do like the SAE connectors. I am wondering if perhaps there is some sort of marine connector that would work and perhaps be even more robust?
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Portero72
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2008 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW, the 77 connector was fine when my VR/stator went bad at 10,500 miles.....







...at least that's what the servicing dealership said.
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Pso
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Portero-Thanks for putting the fly in the ointment. I thought/was hoping that the problem would go away with just a change of the connectors.
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Red_chili
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

..at least that's what the servicing dealership said.

It may turn out to be a small fly. Based on a quick visual by a service tech, or worse, the service writer just coming up with an answer out of thin air. I would not give up on the theory based on a single data point.
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